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Ideal material for desk

  • 12-04-2020 9:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 128 ✭✭


    I am planning to make a desk something like this one. https://zaorstudiofurniture.com/product/miza-m/

    Bought a piano keyboard which is on my computer desk. I don't have another place for the keyboard so i am hoping to build something which can hide away the keyboard when not used. And give a desk surface to be used all the time.

    My question what is the ideal material, especially for the legs. I am thinking of using 25mm plywood. The desk top surface to be approx 1220 (width of the sheet) and 500 deep. The second desk approx 1550 wide, 400 deep. Havn't worked with plywood so don't know whats the best.

    Any advice is much appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    If you don't mind a contemporary look then 18 mm Baltic ply is a good bet - you don't have to cover the edges unlike any other sheet material.
    I think the desk top and seat would need a 25 x 70 mm batten screwed/glued on edge underneath to prevent sagging.I wouldn't use 25 mm stuff - it would weigh a ton.
    The seat has four drawer runners and castors to slide in/out - you might scrap that and just lift the seat :D
    I'd lay out the cutting list on graph paper first to get the grain direction right unless you are going to paint it. Oh... always use a water based finish on Baltic ply -- polyurethanes turn it a an unattractive honey yellow. Good luck.!


  • Administrators Posts: 54,423 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    recipio wrote: »
    If you don't mind a contemporary look then 18 mm Baltic ply is a good bet - you don't have to cover the edges unlike any other sheet material.
    I think the desk top and seat would need a 25 x 70 mm batten screwed/glued on edge underneath to prevent sagging.I wouldn't use 25 mm stuff - it would weigh a ton.
    The seat has four drawer runners and castors to slide in/out - you might scrap that and just lift the seat :D
    I'd lay out the cutting list on graph paper first to get the grain direction right unless you are going to paint it. Oh... always use a water based finish on Baltic ply -- polyurethanes turn it a an unattractive honey yellow. Good luck.!

    Curious why you pick ply over mdf? Weight? Or just the option of not having to paint it if you wash a contemporary look?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    awec wrote: »
    Curious why you pick ply over mdf? Weight? Or just the option of not having to paint it if you wash a contemporary look?

    The edges. MDF will soon show dings and nicks unless reinforced. Also it sags a lot unless supported. Ideally I suppose all sheet goods should be reinforced with solid wood and you can get speciality router cutters to do that - assuming you have a router table and 1/2" router.The edges of varnished Baltic ply are attractive in their own right ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 128 ✭✭mexicanking


    Thank you all for your reply. I was initially planning mdf, then switched to ply. I am planning to paint it. If I have time might go putty paint, to match other furniture.
    I can reinforce the underside of tops to add strength. My concern are the legs. Will 18mm mdf or ply be able to take the weight. I am hoping to get a design similar to the one on link. But not really sure will the legs have strength, I will be unable to reinforce the legs. That's why went for 25mm ply.
    Looks like I will only need one sheets for the size I am looking for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Hate the design of that desk. It pushes you further away from the monitors and also has two different levels a keyboard level and a desk working after level. They look to be quite extreme in terms of change in height. Terrible ergonomics


    Personally id have a cut out in the desk with a shallow hideaway under a door if I wanted to put keyboard away. Alternatively and easier just put a small lip shelf under right or left side and out keyboard there.

    Desk should really be one height for working continuously. And pullouts Rob unnecessary room space.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,070 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    listermint wrote: »
    Hate the design of that desk. It pushes you further away from the monitors and also has two different levels a keyboard level and a desk working after level. They look to be quite extreme in terms of change in height. Terrible ergonomics


    Personally id have a cut out in the desk with a shallow hideaway under a door if I wanted to put keyboard away. Alternatively and easier just put a small lip shelf under right or left side and out keyboard there.

    Desk should really be one height for working continuously. And pullouts Rob unnecessary room space.
    It depends on the size of the keyboard,
    it may need the difference in height, and is probably a bit big for a small lip shelf


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Do you know about pocket hole joinery ?
    If not I'd recommend it .
    Quick and easy !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,900 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    listermint wrote: »
    Hate the design of that desk. It pushes you further away from the monitors and also has two different levels a keyboard level and a desk working after level. They look to be quite extreme in terms of change in height. Terrible ergonomics


    Personally id have a cut out in the desk with a shallow hideaway under a door if I wanted to put keyboard away. Alternatively and easier just put a small lip shelf under right or left side and out keyboard there.
    I think you've misunderstood the function of the desk.
    The pull out isn't for the PC keyboard while you working, it for an actual keyboard, as in musical. Which is quite large, hence the large pull out. When using the keyboard, you wouldn't be using the desk space at the same time.

    The desk is too high though imo. You'd need a good task chair with a good range to make that usable. OP what height is your current computer desk?
    recipio wrote: »
    I think the desk top and seat would need a 25 x 70 mm batten screwed/glued on edge underneath to prevent sagging.I wouldn't use 25 mm stuff - it would weigh a ton.
    The seat has four drawer runners and castors to slide in/out - you might
    It's not a seat. Can see where you got it from, but it's just to hold a keyboard. 25 x 70 mm battens would be overkill and wouldn't look very clunky.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,900 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Thank you all for your reply. I was initially planning mdf, then switched to ply. I am planning to paint it. If I have time might go putty paint, to match other furniture.
    I can reinforce the underside of tops to add strength. My concern are the legs. Will 18mm mdf or ply be able to take the weight. I am hoping to get a design similar to the one on link. But not really sure will the legs have strength, I will be unable to reinforce the legs. That's why went for 25mm ply.
    Looks like I will only need one sheets for the size I am looking for.

    18mm is pretty standard for commercial carcasses. It will depend more on the design than the board thickness. The legs needs lateral support not strength. The two pieces connecting the legs are v.important.

    Ply joinery is popular at the minute. Contrary to expectation, it's typical more expensive option than a laminate finished boards due to extra material and finishing costs. TBH, If you weren't going to express the plywood, I wouldn't bother. Just use a good laminate faced MDF.

    As above, make sure the keyboard and desk heights work, both the height you need and the chair you have.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    Thank you all for your reply. I was initially planning mdf, then switched to ply. I am planning to paint it. If I have time might go putty paint, to match other furniture.
    I can reinforce the underside of tops to add strength. My concern are the legs. Will 18mm mdf or ply be able to take the weight. I am hoping to get a design similar to the one on link. But not really sure will the legs have strength, I will be unable to reinforce the legs. That's why went for 25mm ply.
    Looks like I will only need one sheets for the size I am looking for.

    Trust me - 18 mm is plenty strong to support body weight in the vertical component. The legs of the seat would need a batten between them to stop flexing - the design shown seems to rely on the runners to fix the legs but its not a very good design.
    Have you a method of joining all the components - it all comes down to tools and experience.
    PS Just noticed the comments that the 'seat' is in fact a platform for a keyboard. In that case it might not need a batten underneath. MDF is a better material for painting so if you don't mind a bit of wear and tear after a while it would be a suitable material.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 128 ✭✭mexicanking


    Thank you all again.

    My biggest problem is space. I have one desk space in the house and now with this COVID got a piano keyboard. So had to look for ways to make functional use of both.

    You all are correct, the height is not good, but its a compromise. 620mm for the pull out drawer barely clears my knee. The keyboard needs another 150mm and with material thickness it brings it around 810mm which is too high for the desk surface. I would have loved to keep it at 720mm.

    I am open for design options at this stage as cant get hold of materials at this time. Laminate finish would be a good option. I will then keep it at 18mm thickness. I was planning to attach length of batten at the rear, but won't have space at the front.

    Where I am stuck is tools, don't want to invest a lot. I was planning for basic dowel joints. And attach an 18x18 strip on either side of the legs for it to take the weight of the top.

    Or if anyone has some nice design, I am happy to take it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,900 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    recipio wrote: »
    The legs of the seat would need a batten between them to stop flexing - the design shown seems to rely on the runners to fix the legs but its not a very good design
    It’s a bad design for a seat.
    But as I said above, it’s not a seat,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,070 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    Thank you all again.

    My biggest problem is space. I have one desk space in the house and now with this COVID got a piano keyboard. So had to look for ways to make functional use of both.

    You all are correct, the height is not good, but its a compromise. 620mm for the pull out drawer barely clears my knee. The keyboard needs another 150mm and with material thickness it brings it around 810mm which is too high for the desk surface. I would have loved to keep it at 720mm.

    I am open for design options at this stage as cant get hold of materials at this time. Laminate finish would be a good option. I will then keep it at 18mm thickness. I was planning to attach length of batten at the rear, but won't have space at the front.

    Where I am stuck is tools, don't want to invest a lot. I was planning for basic dowel joints. And attach an 18x18 strip on either side of the legs for it to take the weight of the top.

    Or if anyone has some nice design, I am happy to take it.

    https://www.creativesauce.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Studio_Desk_Plans_V2.pdf
    There's a video of the guy making this oneon his website.
    He uses mdf but the high density stuff, and 28mm worktop .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 128 ✭✭mexicanking


    https://www.creativesauce.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Studio_Desk_Plans_V2.pdf
    There's a video of the guy making this oneon his website.
    He uses mdf but the high density stuff, and 28mm worktop .

    Thats ane excellent link, thanks a mill. It makes my life a lot easier.


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