Networking solution between houses

dazzday

Hi folks,

Im fortunate enough to have FTTH (VF 300mb) out in the sticks - however it stops at my house. My inlaws are 150m away and can only get a 3G signal.
Im looking to share my connection with them, preferably wirelessy to avoid having to dig and run a cable.

From researching I believe Ubiquiti nanonstation or nanobeam would be a viable option as I have clear line of sight. I would set up the second router as a seperate SSID.



Couple of open questions if someone can help

(1) My current router is the vodafone Gigabox. Working fine but does not give great house coverage. Im also looking to extend my Wifi to Shed 1.
Would upgrading my router to mesh (https://eu.store.ui.com/products/amplifi-mesh-router) be worthwhile upgrade?

(2) Ubiquiti nanonstation/nanobeam/lightbeam etc - any particular model I should go for in the above scenario?
Does the ubiquiti software allow to control bandwidth for the link (e.g. if I wanted to limit download and upload of PTP link to 50mb for example) or would i require to control that via my router (i dont believe the gigabox has this ability)?

(3) What is the best option to extend Wifi Coverage to shed 2?

trompele

Hey Dazzday,

Starting with (2): Cheapest 5ghz you can find unless you want to have guaranteed 300 MBps. Any 5Ghz Ubiquiti will do 100 Mbps at this distance. Nanobeams are perfectly fine. https://linitx.com/product/ubiquiti-airmax-nanostation-5ac-loco-wireless-network-bridge-loco5ac-(ns-5acl)/15217

Q 3. Wire, if you have that option go with Cat6 wire (shielded) you can buy these from linitx or any other place.

Q 1. No idea, you could use amplifi or Unifi. Othewise put wifi router in central place (rule of thumb is that signal should not travel through more than one brick wall).

dazzday

Thanks for the response tromplele. NanoStation 5AC Loco looks ideal for what i need at 450mbps throughput.

https://linitx.com/product/ubiquiti-airmax-m5-nanobeam-16dbi-nbe-m5-16/14061#
I believe the nanobeam comes with the PoE adaptor which brings them both to the same price. Would i be better off getting the nanobeam over nanostation if the same price?

Unfortunately wired connection is not really an option at the moment due to tarmac to the Shed 2.

I wonder would an AP like this https://www.ui.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/ at both houses extend my wifi range sufficient enough for access both sheds or is this overkill?

smuggler.ie

Re (3):
Proper AP should provide workable coverage providing AP located In room/attic on shed side of the house
I have Cisco 3500 series AP on the ceiling in attic converted room and it reaches ~ 70m radius(no additonal obstructions) with link speed ~20Mbps at that distance with actual DL under 10 Mbps(mobile internet up to 70-80 max), patchy after that. My house walls insulated with foil back insulation boards that does have effect on signal I believe.
Cisco AP not that user friendly as Ubiquity regard setup and management if concerned.

Edit: this posted while on WiFi with mobile data disabled @ 70 m away from home.

BobbyT28

https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/ubiquiti-amplifi-hd-gamers-edition-home-wifi-mesh-3439713

Maybe if interest.

ka2

A wired connection could be dangerous in this case. Having a physical connection between two different electrical supplies without correct grounding can pose a shock and fire risk. So I’d only advise a wireless link.

Mat the trasher

Was considering something similar but for a temporary soloution while waiting on BB install.



Have you considered Point to point wifi?
kit here as example, https://wifigear.co.uk/ubiquiti-airmax-litebeam-lbe-5ac-23-kit#.Xq7XNM17nDc


Would probabaly work perfectly for your problem.

degsie

Remember that your neighbour will have full access to your network unless you are planning for lan segregation. Also be aware of the possibility of dodgy site surfing and data cap over subscription.

TheChizler

ka2 wrote: »

A wired connection could be dangerous in this case. Having a physical connection between two different electrical supplies without correct grounding can pose a shock and fire risk. So I’d only advise a wireless link.

Fibre would be fine (and probably necessary over copper as the speced limit for 100 is and 1000BASE-T is 100m) and it's not much more complicated or expensive than copper. Big expense burying or protecting the cable though, so agree wireless is the way to go.

irishgeo

This is also against your providers terms and conditions.

The Cush

2 ready to go PtP link kits here, 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz

https://www.freetv.ie/wireless-bridge/
https://www.freetv.ie/wireless-bridges/

My brother has been using the earlier version of the 2.4 GHz link for near 10 years now without issue.

khumbu

Similar situation, needed link between 2 buildings 100m as crow flies apart. A cable run would have been double the distance due to obstacles etc..
Over 12months ago installed pair of tplink cpe210. Set them up as server and client. Cable wifi router connected to client for local wifi. Since then added a second client 180m as crow flies away.
System has never needed to be reset. Bandwidth on link is much higher than the ~25Mb broadband it is connected to.

vintagevrs

ka2 wrote: »

A wired connection could be dangerous in this case. Having a physical connection between two different electrical supplies without correct grounding can pose a shock and fire risk. So I’d only advise a wireless link.

I currently have cat6 connecting our old house with our new house, and have been reading up on your point here regarding ground differences. I am ordering some POE access points here and it occurred to me that I could do use these to provide wifi in the old house, therefore the access point down there would be powered from new house and the two electrical networks would be separate. Would this pose any other risks that I might be missing?

Alun

You can also buy Ethernet isolators that electrically isolate two networks. They're not cheap though.

z0oT

ka2 wrote: »

A wired connection could be dangerous in this case. Having a physical connection between two different electrical supplies without correct grounding can pose a shock and fire risk. So I’d only advise a wireless link.

Alun wrote: »

You can also buy Ethernet isolators that electrically isolate two networks. They're not cheap though.

Just to point out - Ethernet actually has a certain level of electrical isolation already built in - there are physical transformers either in the RJ45 connector or on a seperate IC on the board of every Router/PC/Switch etc.

I believe the IEEE802.3 ethernet standard specifies the isolation is to withstand 1.5kV for 60 seconds. A lightening surge might be a different story, but given the inbuilt electrical isolation, you would imagine it should be fine to run ethernet between seperate houses, and not have to worry about grounding.

The specialized ethernet isolators referenced typically extend that isolation up to several Kilovolts for longer periods of time, but this is only really for environments like factories where 3 phase supplies are used. They often restrict the speed to just 100Mbps aswell.

In the above example, the distance kind of rules out an ethernet link (given it's it's greater than 100m) rather than the grounding.

vintagevrs

z0oT wrote: »

Just to point out - Ethernet actually has a certain level of electrical isolation already built in - there are physical transformers either in the RJ45 connector or on a seperate IC on the board of every Router/PC/Switch etc.

I believe the IEEE802.3 ethernet standard specifies the isolation is to withstand 1.5kV for 60 seconds. A lightening surge might be a different story, but given the inbuilt electrical isolation, you would imagine it should be fine to run ethernet between seperate houses, and not have to worry about grounding.

The specialized ethernet isolators referenced typically extend that isolation up to several Kilovolts for longer periods of time, but this is only really for environments like factories where 3 phase supplies are used. They often restrict the speed to just 100Mbps aswell.

In the above example, the distance kind of rules out an ethernet link (given it's it's greater than 100m) rather than the grounding.

Thank you for this. It's been working fine for a long time and no issue. Also, does the router actually share a ground anyway as I was speaking to someone today who mentioned that as the router is powered by a 9v power adapter the ground doesn't get as far as the router?

z0oT

Well, it's possible the router could use an isolated power supply where its ground is not connected to the ground at the wall, but that really depends on what the router manafacturer does.