fixing curtain holder on drywall

murfilein

above the door going to the garden, we used to have curtain - on a curtain holder fixed with 3 screws in the center, left and right above the door.

my son recently ripped the whole thing down, leaving 2 big holes left and in the center, the right was is still somewhat ok, the cortain rod was still hanging down from it.

see this album for images:

https://imgur.com/a/JEMAsj8

at the end you'll see that polyfilla still which i had, and i put that in the holes. in the image the center hole is filled already, i did the left one after.

now my question: are these holes useable once the stuff dries properly? can i drill back into the previous holes when they are filled with polyfilla, and mount the curtain holder and curtain back to it? can it take a bit of weight? or should i just drill the holes again a bit above where the holes are now to ensure a secure fit?

listermint

do new holes left or right of existing ones leaving at least 20mm if you can.

You can reuse original holes but it will never have the same strength tbh

murfilein

listermint wrote: »

do new holes left or right of existing ones leaving at least 20mm if you can.

You can reuse original holes but it will never have the same strength tbh

ha, for some reason i was only thinking about doing the holes above or below the existing ones lol

yeah to the left or right would also be an option... thanks!

Bikerman2019

The famous plasterboard walls. The bain of my life.
I had to get a builder friend with extra long screws to drill through the plasterboard and into the block behind cooker extractor hood.

I needed to mount a microwave to plasterboard. I cut a rectangle out. Inserted a piece of wood (bolted to the block), then filled over the wood, then mounted the microwave brackets to the wook.


It all depends on the load you will have.

awec

I would use different fixings. The snap toggles or the spring toggles I think.

Though these usually need quite a large hole and your rail hanger may not be big enough to cover them?

Black_Knight

Are driva fixings highly rated? I've used them to hang a number of things on plasterboard, and so far so good.

Calahonda52

For a son proof solution I suggest you use compress nails of the right length into the wall, left flush with the PB and then put a raw plug in the hole in the middle, or use a self tapper that is just the right fit.
This has been covered loadsa times here, IIRC, i posted a picture of the compress nail plus rawlplug plus screw.
Anything else is a waste, especially trying to sue the same holes

murfilein

Calahonda52 wrote: »

For a son proof solution I suggest you use compress nails of the right length into the wall, left flush with the PB and then put a raw plug in the hole in the middle, or use a self tapper that is just the right fit.
This has been covered loadsa times here, IIRC, i posted a picture of the compress nail plus rawlplug plus screw.
Anything else is a waste, especially trying to sue the same holes

whats a compress nail though? couldnt even figure it out after googling it

mad dad

murfilein wrote: »

whats a compress nail though? couldnt even figure it out after googling it

It’s an “Express Nail” . Google that and you’ll get a picture

the_pen_turner

Black_Knight wrote: »

Are driva fixings highly rated? I've used them to hang a number of things on plasterboard, and so far so good.

no . they regularly come out the worst in any comparison test

Black_Knight

the_pen_turner wrote: »

no . they regularly come out the worst in any comparison test

Gulp. Here's hoping my mirror, paintings, and shelving think otherwise. To be fair, mirror and paintings have 2 mounts each. The the shelving is supported at 4 points, each with multiple drivas. Good to know though. Thanks

the_pen_turner

Black_Knight wrote: »

Gulp. Here's hoping my mirror, paintings, and shelving think otherwise. To be fair, mirror and paintings have 2 mounts each. The the shelving is supported at 4 points, each with multiple drivas. Good to know though. Thanks

they are grand for really light stuff like pictures etc.
check out you tube for comparison videos.
Charlie diy, ultimate handyman, Gosforth handyman etc have all done videos on all the diferent types and test of them

Tefral

Use Grip it Pigstails.

I have insulated plasterboard all over my house and these things are a godsend.

colm_c

Similar happened with mine.

I cut out a square of plasterboard and slid in long piece of timber (longer than the hole).

Did this for each mounting point.

Secured the wood to plasterboard with drywall screwed, then patched the hole with a fresh plasterboard square, some polyfilla and painted it to match the wall.

Once dry, I fixed the curtain rail to the wall through the plasterboard and timber using wood screws.

Solid since.

okidoki987

Personally I wouldn't use those fixings for something as heavy as a
curtain rail and curtains.
I couldn't get a curtain rail to stay on wall properly until I used spring toggels.
Gripit's same idea but a lot dearer and you need to be sure of depth of wall or you may end up having the wings in the plasterboard itself.

Calahonda52

mad dad wrote: »

It’s an “Express Nail” . Google that and you’ll get a picture

My bad, auto correct..

the_pen_turner

okidoki987 wrote: »

Personally I wouldn't use those fixings for something as heavy as a
curtain rail and curtains.
I couldn't get a curtain rail to stay on wall properly until I used spring toggels.
Gripit's same idea but a lot dearer and you need to be sure of depth of wall or you may end up having the wings in the plasterboard itself.

grip it sells a little undercutting tool that cuts away any of the slab that is too thick.

I havnt used it because im not a lover of the gripits but people say they work

okidoki987

Just had a look online and Grip Its hold some weight advantage compared to the spring toggle which is surprising.
Obviously if you are ever planning on moving the item you're putting up, your spring toggle will be gone unless you have access to the other side of the wall on the floor.

GreeBo

okidoki987 wrote: »

Just had a look online and Grip Its hold some weight advantage compared to the spring toggle which is surprising.
Obviously if you are ever planning on moving the item you're putting up, your spring toggle will be gone unless you have access to the other side of the wall on the floor.

This is why I normally fix a block of wood to the wall and then plaster over it.
You can now use any old screws and, assuming you used a big enough piece of wood, have ample space to move your fixings around.