Looking to build a garden fence

DJI

Hi looking to build a fence and just wondering what lengths of wood to order. I'm fine making the fence and going to concrete posts in but could do with some advice on lengths of wood tickness etc to order.

smelly sock

I used lengths of decking around 9 years ago and the fence is still going strong. Have treated a3 times in that period. I used 3 timber posts secured with postcrete at the base and attached the fence to a concrete wall at each end. Looks nice too.

I think you'll need to supply measurements for posters to advise.

rje66

DJI wrote: »

Hi looking to build a fence and just wondering what lengths of wood to order. I'm fine making the fence and going to concrete posts in but could do with some advice on lengths of wood tickness etc to order.

If you are trying to make exact copy of either fence in images then supplier will have suitable timbers in stock. Or if its something like images, this fencing is called post and rail. Posts need to be 5*3 inches. Rails, you will get away with 4*2. These generally come in 4.8m(16ft) lengths . Generally use about 3 or 4 rails. All timber should be treated and for posts where they meet ground give a good treatment of wood preservative .creosote if good.cut angle on top of post also and treat with creosote. Plan this out as wood is not cheap these days.

DJI

rje66 wrote: »

If you are trying to make exact copy of either fence in images then supplier will have suitable timbers in stock. Or if its something like images, this fencing is called post and rail. Posts need to be 5*3 inches. Rails, you will get away with 4*2. These generally come in 4.8m(16ft) lengths . Generally use about 3 or 4 rails. All timber should be treated and for posts where they meet ground give a good treatment of wood preservative .creosote if good.cut angle on top of post also and treat with creosote. Plan this out as wood is not cheap these days.

Lovely thank you that's what I was looking for m, thanks for advice also

Hocus Focus

rje66 wrote: »

If you are trying to make exact copy of either fence in images then supplier will have suitable timbers in stock. Or if its something like images, this fencing is called post and rail. Posts need to be 5*3 inches. Rails, you will get away with 4*2. These generally come in 4.8m(16ft) lengths . Generally use about 3 or 4 rails. All timber should be treated and for posts where they meet ground give a good treatment of wood preservative .creosote if good.cut angle on top of post also and treat with creosote. Plan this out as wood is not cheap these days.

I don't think creosote is available anymore as it has it has been found to cause cancer.

DJI

Any suggesting on how to put posts into ground and what to treat it with as I got timber untreated thanks

DJI

Hocus Focus wrote: »

I don't think creosote is available anymore as it has it has been found to cause cancer.

What alternative would you suggest

Dig a hole and concrete them in with post fix.
You can get cans of crecote. The creosote alternative. Comes in 1 and 25L cans

smelly sock

Any suggestions where to buy postfix?

Thats open at the moment

Lumen

Post and rail fences tend to fail at the junction between post and ground, where there is enough air and water to enable rot.

If I was concreting them in I'd try and leave the concrete proud of the ground, in a conical mound, to encourage water to drain off the wood above ground level. That said, I can't think of an effective way to stop water draining down inside the concrete.

IMO the most effective way of installing post and rail is with a digger and post driver, but not much use for the DIYer. Using a manual post driver would likely result in an industrial injury, they're hell to use repeatedly due to the vibration. Fine for small replacement repairs but not for a whole boundary.

Hocus Focus

You can buy steel spikes which you drive into the ground and then bolt your fence posts in:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/outdoor-gardening/fence-post-spikes/cat7720005

It is advisable to buy a special tool to drive them in without damage from the sledgehammer:
https://www.e-hardware.co.uk/265-p-fencemate-drive-in-tool.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInoeo2P3x6AIVhrTtCh1NVQ2nEAQYASABEgIpYvD_BwE
You'll probably also need to buy a sledgehammer:)

DJI

Thanks I got creosote one last question before installing is do I paint first then creosote or paint after or does it really matter

rje66

DJI wrote: »

Thanks I got creosote one last question before installing is do I paint first then creosote or paint after or does it really matter

Creosote first. Then when in ground a good application where they meet ground, as mentioned above this is where they rot. No harm to apply yearly either.

Hocus Focus

rje66 wrote: »

Creosote first. Then when in ground a good application where they meet ground, as mentioned above this is where they rot. No harm to apply yearly either.

If you creosote, you will not be able to get paint to stick, so just creosote.
I seem to recall that my late neighbour, a famer, mentioned that when he creosoted fences and gates he mixed in some oil-based black paint.
Personally, I would not have started out with untreated timber, it will not last very long.