Getting rid of Gas Heating..

MrFrisp

Hi guys,
Just looking for some ides of cost of this project,and work involved.

Currently have gas heating in the house. As with a lot of people, We are thinking of moving away from gas, because of the cost of running it, and the fact when turned off, the house is cold again within an hour.
This is despite the house being insulated, including the attic, and walls.

This is a Council House.
So, we were thinking of getting the back boiler put back in, and running the rads from that.
We have been told, that the rads are connected to the gas boiler, and the pipes from the old back boiler, which was removed, have been cut. But they are still there.
It's supposed to be a zoned heating system?? Have no idea about that.
To get hot water, we need to flick a different button on the panel for that, which is also from the gas.

So, looking at the cost of a new back boiler, possible immersion tank, and the circulating pump. Ohh, and labour.
The house had the back boiler years ago, but obviously disconnected for the gas insulation.

We have a boiler stove that has never been fitted, due to the cost involved. But thinking of selling this to offset the cost of the work.

So guys, please don't slate us for looking at switching back to the back boiler.. It's just a personal choice.

Thanks.

Lewis_Benson

Dont fit an open fire back boiler , terribly inefficient.
Get the boiler stove fitted if.anything.

MrFrisp

Lewis_Benson wrote: »

Dont fit an open fire back boiler , terribly inefficient.
Get the boiler stove fitted if.anything.

.

At the moment, the cost is well beyond what we have available.

It's why the stove is sitting there idle.

We're just trying to look at the cheaper option.
.

DGOBS

It won't be cheaper, solid fuel is not cheap......
and it will do nothing to stop your house 'going cold' as you will have the same heat loss you have at the moment (whatever it is)
it will just you will have a back boiler, constantly on (with solid fuel) also, you will possibly need additional ventilation to the room.

You choice doesn't stack up to be honest.

caff

Have you costed replacing windows doors or improving insulation? Sounds more like a heat retention issue and would be same with a back burner.

Markcheese

If you can sell your boiler stove ,and then just get a small non boiler stove fitted ...
Keep your gas ( which is gonna be more efficient ) , which you can set to run on the timer ...

(Have you an open fireplace at the moment ??
Cause that just sucks the heat out of the house )

MicktheMan

OP, changing your gas boiler will do nothing for your heat loss issue. If your house goes cold within an hour of turning your heat off you have a likely a problem with air tightness rather than insulation. A proper (heat loss) survey (note; not a ber) is your first step in getting this sorted.

MrFrisp

Thank you for the replies guys.

Believe it or not, most of the heat loss, and introduction of cold air, seems to be from huge air vents installed in some of the rooms when the insulation was being put in.

They just drilled big holes in the walls, and capped the ends with the vent covers. You can see out through them quite clearly, and can hear outside noises from a long way off through them.

Not sure how they can be fixed, given that they are there for a reason, although a bit too open I think to be honest.

.

MrFrisp

Markcheese wrote: »

If you can sell your boiler stove ,and then just get a small non boiler stove fitted ...
Keep your gas ( which is gonna be more efficient ) , which you can set to run on the timer ...

(Have you an open fireplace at the moment ??
Cause that just sucks the heat out of the house )

.
Yes, the one the back boiler was removed from.

A chimney balloon maybe? Are they efficient?
.

MrFrisp

MicktheMan wrote: »

OP, changing your gas boiler will do nothing for your heat loss issue. If your house goes cold within an hour of turning your heat off you have a likely a problem with air tightness rather than insulation. A proper (heat loss) survey (note; not a ber) is your first step in getting this sorted.

.
A survey was done at the start of last summer. No comeback from it as of yet.

We have moved from County Council over to City Council, so that may have something to do with it.
.

cgcsb

Are you mad?

punisher5112

You can't do any of these works as you don't own the property.

I gather you are a Tennant.....

There are vent covers or ends that can dampen the sounds....

Do not block them.


Close doors, make sure the gas boiler is serviced yearly and close the chimney, use say old cushions etc to block the draught.

MrFrisp

punisher5112 wrote: »

You can't do any of these works as you don't own the property.

I gather you are a Tennant.....

There are vent covers or ends that can dampen the sounds....

Do not block them.


Close doors, make sure the gas boiler is serviced yearly and close the chimney, use say old cushions etc to block the draught.

.
Ohh, no intention of blocking them. Am well aware why they are there.

It's something like the covers that you suggest is what I meant.
.

MrFrisp

cgcsb wrote: »

Are you mad?

.
Not sure what this has to do with the post, but not that I'm aware of.
.

punisher5112

MrFrisp wrote: »

.
Ohh, no intention of blocking them. Am well aware why they are there.

It's something like the covers that you suggest is what I meant.
.

I'm looking at them myself, you can get ones that basically control the air and open more of dampness is detected.

I've seen them on Amazon for around £80 or £100

As stated solid fuel such as burning in open fire is around 75% inefficient if I recall or is that heat loss..... I'm too tired.

MrFrisp

punisher5112 wrote: »

I'm looking at them myself, you can get ones that basically control the air and open more of dampness is detected.

I've seen them on Amazon for around £80 or £100

.
Spot on, thank you.
.

Markcheese

MrFrisp wrote: »

.
Yes, the one the back boiler was removed from.

A chimney balloon maybe? Are they efficient?
.

They're supposed to be good ,you won't be able to use the fire place when its in obviously ...

I have my stove out because I'm messing with the fireplace so for the past 2 weeks have had an open chimney ,and couldn't believe how cold the house was ..... Anyway plugged the chimney yesterday and the house started to warm up immediately...

iamtony

Sounds like you need to install a good ventilation system. I was always curious about making a house air tight and then opening vents with big holes in the walls, it totally contradicts itself and I was right, when you look into it, building regs on new homes mean the insulation has to be great but for ventilation you just need to drill holes in the walls and ruin the air tightness and create drafts and concentrate the dampness to this suits creating mound. In the future they will specify a proper hvac system or something similar.
Unless you have a free supply of wood, gas with an efficient combi boiler and a smart thermostat would be your best bet in my opinion and look at hvac systems to control the air quality.
Edit. I guess a heat pump system would be even better but I dont know a lot about these.

MrFrisp

iamtony wrote: »

Sounds like you need to install a good ventilation system. I was always curious about making a house air tight and then opening vents with big holes in the walls, it totally contradicts itself and I was right, when you look into it, building regs on new homes mean the insulation has to be great but for ventilation you just need to drill holes in the walls and ruin the air tightness and create drafts and concentrate the dampness to this suits creating mound.

.
Seems to be exactly the problem I'm having.

They spent thousands putting in the insulation, only to then drill huge holes in the wall, leaving all the cold air,wind,etc back in.
.

HeidiHeidi

MrFrisp wrote: »

.
Seems to be exactly the problem I'm having.

They spent thousands putting in the insulation, only to then drill huge holes in the wall, leaving all the cold air,wind,etc back in.
.

From what I've read, the biggest hole of all is that open chimney where the stove used to be.

listermint

iamtony wrote: »

Sounds like you need to install a good ventilation system. I was always curious about making a house air tight and then opening vents with big holes in the walls, it totally contradicts itself and I was right, when you look into it, building regs on new homes mean the insulation has to be great but for ventilation you just need to drill holes in the walls and ruin the air tightness and create drafts and concentrate the dampness to this suits creating mound. In the future they will specify a proper hvac system or something similar.
Unless you have a free supply of wood, gas with an efficient combi boiler and a smart thermostat would be your best bet in my opinion and look at hvac systems to control the air quality.
Edit. I guess a heat pump system would be even better but I dont know a lot about these.

Ventilation like this stops mould. Doesn't create it.

Poor airtightness is caused by uncontrolled air gaps. i.e badly fitted or old doors, badly fitted or old windows, open gaps in walls from attic space and air flow behind plasterboard and down around skirting and sockets, open fireplaces

You'd find of all the uncontrolled stuff was solved and you had a controlled vent in a wall the house would be far warmer for longer.

Wall vents are fine if done correctly and as part of a holistic air tight plan.

Obviously an mhrv is better but not everyone can afford one and works involved.



Op as suggested get an airtightness test some direction of where to start will be given..and it won't be installing a back boiler.

iamtony

listermint wrote: »

Ventilation like this stops mould. Doesn't create it.

Poor airtightness is caused by uncontrolled air gaps. i.e badly fitted or old doors, badly fitted or old windows, open gaps in walls from attic space and air flow behind plasterboard and down around skirting and sockets, open fireplaces

You'd find of all the uncontrolled stuff was solved and you had a controlled vent in a wall the house would be far warmer for longer.

Wall vents are fine if done correctly and as part of a holistic air tight plan.

Obviously an mhrv is better but not everyone can afford one and works involved.



Op as suggested get an airtightness test some direction of where to start will be given..and it won't be installing a back boiler.

I know ventilation prevents mould but when all the air exchange is happening in one spot it can create mound. I can show this effect on the ceiling directly above my bathroom fan.
Maybe it's a badly done fan but still it happens. P.s mhrv is the system I was thinking of when i said hvac.
The problem of airtighness and then drilling big holes in the walls for ventilation is a recognised one. I'll have a look for the article I read on it hang on.....

https://passivehouseplus.ie/magazine/dispatches/new-build-homes-face-emerging-ventilation-crisis
That's the one.
The reason this came to mind is the op says the house has been ventilated and it still gets cold within an hour which makes total sense. People go on about air leaks sucking all the hot air out and everything and then spend a fortune on creating airtighness then make a big leak to suck all the warm air out.

MrFrisp

iamtony wrote: »

I know ventilation prevents mould but when all the air exchange is happening in one spot it can create mound. I can show this effect on the ceiling directly above my bathroom fan.
Maybe it's a badly done fan but still it happens. P.s mhrv is the system I was thinking of when i said hvac.
The problem of airtighness and then drilling big holes in the walls for ventilation is a recognised one. I'll have a look for the article I read on it hang on.....

https://passivehouseplus.ie/magazine/dispatches/new-build-homes-face-emerging-ventilation-crisis
That's the one.
The reason this came to mind is the op says the house has been ventilated and it still gets cold within an hour which makes total sense. People go on about air leaks sucking all the hot air out and everything and then spend a fortune on creating airtighness then make a big leak to suck all the warm air out.

.
Great article.

So it seems, I'll have to try and sell the boiler stove, get a non-boiler stove, and do something about the vents.

Thanks for all the information.
.