Bulbs keep blowing

fjon

Kitchen light which has 3 spotlights (R50 bulbs), and they keep blowing. The bulbs are decent LED ones and I've gone through a few so I don't think that's the issue.
There is a dimmer switch that was installed maybe 10 years ago (I'm definitely using dimmable switches).
The same dimmer switch also controls two other regular lights and those have never given me trouble - it's just the 3-spotlight one.
Could it be something to do with the light fitting? I'm fine with replacing that if need be. Or would it more likely be the dimmer switch?

ted1

fjon wrote: »

Kitchen light which has 3 spotlights (R50 bulbs), and they keep blowing. The bulbs are decent LED ones and I've gone through a few so I don't think that's the issue.
There is a dimmer switch that was installed maybe 10 years ago (I'm definitely using dimmable switches).
The same dimmer switch also controls two other regular lights and those have never given me trouble - it's just the 3-spotlight one.
Could it be something to do with the light fitting? I'm fine with replacing that if need be. Or would it more likely be the dimmer switch?

Is it the right kind of dimmer switch ?

fjon

ted1 wrote: »

Is it the right kind of dimmer switch ?

I am not sure - how can I tell? It was there when I moved into the house.

Chuck Noland

If the bulbs are exposed to lots of steam from cooking this maybe an issue also

fjon

Chuck Noland wrote: »

If the bulbs are exposed to lots of steam from cooking this maybe an issue also

They might be - they are near enough the cooker, but the extractor fan is often on, and the kitchen is large enough that the steam would dissipate.

I should also mention that for weeks before the bulbs blow they would generally "flicker" between bright and dim for quite a few minutes after they were turned on.

cheif kaiser

Are the bulbs you are using dimmable?

Also, I believe you have to use a LED compatible dimmer switch.

See more info on switches here ... https://www.lyco.co.uk/advice/dimmers-trailing-vs-leading-edge/

fjon

I’m certain the bulbs themselves can be dimmed. Looks like it might be an issue with the dimmer switch itself then. They we installed over 10 years ago when LEDs weren’t all that prevalent. Installing a new light fixture seem easier than replacing the dimmer switch.

alan4cult

fjon wrote: »

I’m certain the bulbs themselves can be dimmed. Looks like it might be an issue with the dimmer switch itself then. They we installed over 10 years ago when LEDs weren’t all that prevalent. Installing a new light fixture seem easier than replacing the dimmer switch.

I think replacing the dimmer switch would be much easier. Varilight or MK do an LED dimmer switch.

TheBully

Few issues here, you need an LED dimmer that’s your biggest problem, another problem here is that ideally you don’t put LED and older type incandescent bulbs on the same circuit, the older lights draw more power which affects the performance of the LED.
The led is much more sensitive as it contains electrical components rather than just an element.

TheBully

So, split the circuit or upgrade all to LED and install an LED dimmer

fjon

Thanks for the info. There are 3 lights controller by the switch - one is a 3 way (all LEDs), the other two are single incandescent bulbs.
Looks like i need to change the switch to a LED compatible switch (like the two alan mentioned above), and then change the two incandescent bulbs to LED.
As someone with no experience with this, how difficult would it be to change the dimmer switch myself?

kramer1

fjon wrote: »

Thanks for the info. There are 3 lights controller by the switch - one is a 3 way (all LEDs), the other two are single incandescent bulbs.
Looks like i need to change the switch to a LED compatible switch (like the two alan mentioned above), and then change the two incandescent bulbs to LED.
As someone with no experience with this, how difficult would it be to change the dimmer switch myself?

Pretty easy but you should turn off all power, label or mark cables and take plenty of photos beforehand

fjon

kramer1 wrote: »

Pretty easy but you should turn off all power, label or mark cables and take plenty of photos beforehand

Great, will give it a go then. Unfortunately there are 5 other dimmer switches in the house so I'm guessing they'll all need to be changed.

fjon

Stupid question, but would something like this be what I need, or am I looking to change the dimmer module only?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Varilight-Classic-Chrome-Trailing-Dimmer/dp/B01L4P3OMA/ref=sr_1_11?crid=6Y312OKPDZ40&keywords=3+gang+led+dimmer+switch&qid=1581247570&refinements=p_89%3AVarilight&rnid=1632651031&sprefix=3+gang+led%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-11

Andy111111

This is something totally different

Hi guys I hope someone here can please help,
I have a new 2021 renault master van lwb, 2.3 100,
So I bought a led light to put on grill of van so I tried to connect it to the w5w parking lights,
When I set it up everything was great for about 2weeks but then they starting turning off after awhile and when I turned off the engine the lights would come back on for awhile then knock back off, I'd hear a clicking sound when they came on and off but NOW nothing, my high and low beam, indicators,side lights, back lights brakes and license plate work but not the front small w5w bulbs,
So I disconnected the led thinking it may come back but nothing,
I've tried fuse under dash and under bonnet and all OK,
Can someone please help as the van is fairly new and it's killing me inside

irishkopite 2011

Sounds like a relay has stopped working,

Andy111111

I found the relay for the yellow side lights,
But the yellow side lights work, would this relay send voltage to the front aswell as sides or would the front be a different relay?

Andy111111

OK so I traced it back to the bsm unit, I've used multimeter and cable clips to find out problem, turns out by adding led to parking bulb is not a good idea as the bsi or bsm units was under pressure and it controls the voltage current to bulbs aswell as other components to the exact amount of voltage, the chip inside was fried and needed replacing, but there's a bypass solution by connecting the feed in to the feed out wires coming from relay, so for now it fixed with a 5 amp fuse connector between the wire before bsm unit, works perfectly for now with a steady 12v current like it should, modern vehicles are a nightmare as everything is controlled by computers, I've learn a lesson here �� so if it happens to someone in the future, there's a bypass solution,

jmlad2020

House is haunted. Get a priest in.