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Leaking joint after changing fill valve

  • 13-01-2020 5:30pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭


    Hi guys,

    Have a small leak on a joint under toilet after replacing fill valve.

    I must of moved it while changing the valve.

    As you can see on the attached picture the leak is coming from the two connected right angle connectors.

    I tried PTFE tape but leak persists.

    The two right angle joints seem to just kiss each other and seem difficult to align before tightening with nut.. They don't slot together. Could I use better connectors for this joint?

    As you can tell I know nothing about plumbing so would appreciate any help.

    Just to be clear leak is coming from joint with nut loosened on attached picture.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 153 ✭✭imp1


    One joint does not look tightened at all, the 'shiny' brass male part, if that was tight it looks like the brass / plastic parts would line up better. There is no ptfe on the brass connecter, which it should have - well I always use it anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    imp1 wrote: »
    One joint does not look tightened at all, the 'shiny' brass male part, if that was tight it looks like the brass / plastic parts would line up better. There is no ptfe on the brass connecter, which it should have - well I always use it anyway.

    Ya that picture was taken before nut was tightened and tape on. I actually tried hemp and boss white too but took it off after reading it's not suitable for potable water


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 153 ✭✭imp1


    PTFE goes on before you put the fitting together, around the olive if there is one, and around the threads that get fixed together, from your post it sounds like you put the PTFE on afterwards?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    imp1 wrote: »
    PTFE goes on before you put the fitting together, around the olive if there is one, and around the threads that get fixed together, from your post it sounds like you put the PTFE on afterwards?

    No put tape on before fitting them together.

    I just took that picture with water drained from tank and nut loose so people could see joint clearly.

    I cam take picture of what joint looks like now when I get home.

    Also no olive in joint could that help with leak?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 797 ✭✭✭Tiercel Dave


    Not a plumber but....."potable Water" is the stuff that you are going to drink so go ahead and smear a little boss on the joints. Loosen back the connection to the cistern, make the joint between the brass fittings first as there is little or no play in them. Then tighten up the cistern connection, the washer and plastic will give a tiny bit of leeway. Good luck.....


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 153 ✭✭imp1


    Some types of joints use olives, some don't, that one looks like it doesn't.
    It may be just the angle, but to me it looks like the plastic / brass joint is cross threaded, maybe it just looks that way.
    I would slacken all off, tape up, and puts both ends on hand tight making sure everything lined up before tightening.
    I am no plumber, just do a bit for myself, you may get more/better advice from others.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Not a plumber but....."potable Water" is the stuff that you are going to drink so go ahead and smear a little boss on the joints. Loosen back the connection to the cistern, make the joint between the brass fittings first as there is little or no play in them. Then tighten up the cistern connection, the washer and plastic will give a tiny bit of leeway. Good luck.....
    imp1 wrote: »
    Some types of joints use olives, some don't, that one looks like it doesn't.
    It may be just the angle, but to me it looks like the plastic / brass joint is cross threaded, maybe it just looks that way.
    I would slacken all off, tape up, and puts both ends on hand tight making sure everything lined up before tightening.
    I am no plumber, just do a bit for myself, you may get more/better advice from others.

    Cheers lads will give that a try when I get a chance.

    I attached picture of what joint looks like now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Cheers lads will give that a try when I get a chance.

    I attached picture of what joint looks like now.

    Is it OK now, no leaks? the highlighted in red connection, is there an olive somewhere there or is it just a rubber gasket?, the tape on the threads does nothing except maybe to make it a bit easier to slacken off in years to come.
    The black highlighted one with olives, should, IMO be tightened up without any tape to ensure the olive is compressed properly, then add a few wraps of tape, I even go a bit further with all those type of compression fittings when new, I just nip up the nut slightly and then I pull the pipe (or the elbow) back very slightly about a MM or so to ensure the pipe hasn't bottomed out in the fitting and then tighten fully, I don't use any tape on new fittings but a wrap or two won't do any harm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    John.G wrote: »
    Is it OK now, no leaks? the highlighted in red connection, is there an olive somewhere there or is it just a rubber gasket?, the tape on the threads does nothing except maybe to make it a bit easier to slacken off in years to come.
    The black highlighted one with olives, should, IMO be tightened up without any tape to ensure the olive is compressed properly, then add a few wraps of tape, I even go a bit further with all those type of compression fittings when new, I just nip up the nut slightly and then I pull the pipe (or the elbow) back very slightly about a MM or so to ensure the pipe hasn't bottomed out in the fitting and then tighten fully, I don't use any tape on new fittings but a wrap or two won't do any harm.

    Leak still there one drop about every 30 seconds on red highlighted.

    No olive or rubber gasket on it, can I add either if they were not there originally?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Leak still there one drop about every 30 seconds on red highlighted.

    No olive or rubber gasket on it, can I add either if they were not there originally?

    Can you remove it and post a picture, there has to be some form of sealing arrangement and its certainly not thread tape.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    John.G wrote: »
    Can you remove it and post a picture, there has to be some form of sealing arrangement and its certainly not thread tape.

    Will have to drain tank in attic to get another picture.

    No sealing at all just the two elbow joints pushed together. Can I add some kind of sealing to help?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Not without taking it apart IMHO.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,686 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Tape on the threads is useless as if water is getting that far, it's already leaking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    If draining down again remove what's there already and replace with one of these

    https://www.diy.com/departments/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-dia-15mm-dia-l-300mm/56971_BQ.prd

    The end with the valve should fit where the first brass nut is on the copper pipe and the other end will screw onto the cistern inlet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    wiz569 wrote: »
    If draining down again remove what's there already and replace with one of these

    https://www.diy.com/departments/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-dia-15mm-dia-l-300mm/56971_BQ.prd

    The end with the valve should fit where the first brass nut is on the copper pipe and the other end will screw onto the cistern inlet.

    Thanks wiz will try that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    You could also (if you are an way) handy) install a isolating gate or lever type valve in the tank outlet as it saves draining down again, some/most CWSTs have two cold water outlets, one to the HW cylinder, the other for all other uses.

    Also, for interest, if you don't mind you might show a picture of the removed elbow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    John.G wrote: »
    You could also (if you are an way) handy) install a isolating gate or lever type valve in the tank outlet as it saves draining down again, some/most CWSTs have two cold water outlets, one to the HW cylinder, the other for all other uses.

    Also, for interest, if you don't mind you might show a picture of the removed elbow.

    Cheers John have ordered the flexible tap connector will have it Friday, will post picture of elbow then.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Cheers John have ordered the flexible tap connector will have it Friday, will post picture of elbow then.

    Hi guys got the tap connector but it's a good bit too long.

    I bought the shortest one 150mm.

    Should I cut tge copper pipe down a bit?

    Picture attached below.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Hi guys got the tap connector but it's a good bit too long.

    I bought the shortest one 150mm.

    Should I cut tge copper pipe down a bit?

    Picture attached below.

    Yes mate once you feel confident enough to do it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,065 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I'm not a plumber, but I would install the flex-coupling connected to the pipes as they are. There is no point in introducing yet another leak-point by trimming pipes.
    When installed, it should loop around in a smooth flow and should not have kinks.
    The flex-coupling is a better option anyhow as it removes any strain which may have been placed on the existing solid joint.
    I hope it goes well!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 415 ✭✭browner85


    Them original fittings you have there need Half inch fiber Washers on the joints not ptfe... google them to see what they look like.. little red rings. Any plumbing supplier will have them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Hi guys got the tap connector but it's a good bit too long.

    I bought the shortest one 150mm.

    Should I cut tge copper pipe down a bit?

    Picture attached below.

    If a fiber/rubber washer can repair your existing pipework then???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    browner85 wrote: »
    Them original fittings you have there need Half inch fiber Washers on the joints not ptfe... google them to see what they look like.. little red rings. Any plumbing supplier will have them

    Will these ones do
    Merriway BH02952 Fibre Washer for 1/2-inch BSP Tap Connector - Pack of 5 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O7P7G60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3xUiEbSQY7DB8

    Would be great if they worked not too keen on cutting into the copper pipe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Don't know, just show the picture of your fitting in any plumbers suppliers and they will/should sort you out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    John.G wrote: »
    Don't know, just show the picture of your fitting in any plumbers suppliers and they will/should sort you out.

    Cheers John


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