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Taylormade M3 Driver set up

  • 06-01-2020 12:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭ kod12


    Just looking for advice on the set up for the Taylormade M3.

    Got the driver 2nd hand before Christmas. its a 10.5 loft 460 head with a stiff shaft. The weights are set up with one fully in the draw position and one just at the end of the track before it splits into the Y.

    Have played 5 rounds with it so far and im losing distance. My usual shape is a fade so the draw setting is off setting that as the shot shape is more right to left on good hits but mainly straight.

    My issue is the trajectory is way to high. its skying high and only running out at 200-220 when i had my old driver at 250+.

    Should i move the weights forward or adjust the loft down. Its currently set up at 10.75

    Cheers in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,308 ✭✭✭✭ prawnsambo


    Where's your strike point on the face? Could be hitting near the top and thus getting the high shots.

    Generally with those types of drivers, a bit of time at the range with the torque wrench is time well spent.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,533 ✭✭✭ RoadRunner


    Reducing loft should make a difference. Try small adjustments.
    I don't like going to the extreme ends of loft with a driver as they can adjust other factors slightly and add draw or fade bias (Unless it's a titlest driver which have best system of adjustment)

    Shaft is also a variable on ball flight. Generally a stiffer shaft gives a lower ball flight.

    Lastly it's cold and wet which has massive implications on distance. Are you able to hit old and new clubs back-to-back?


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭ kod12


    Cheers

    I had the cobra f9 before that but cracked the head so cant compare it side by side with the M3. The spawell might be the best option so with flightscope and just adjust accordingly there and test the data.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,929 ✭✭✭ spacecoyote


    Also, generally speaking, weights centred & at the front of the face are generally the lowest spinning settings on those drivers (though also general idea would be that those settings are less forgiving).

    If your spin numbers are up, that could be causing the high flying, die in the air ball flight


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,055 ✭✭✭ irish bloke


    What club head speed are you generating with the driver?

    I have the M3 for a month or so now and am loving it.

    Am currently using a 10.5 degree head set to factory settings for lie/loft etc. and the Mitsubishi tensile blue 60 (stiff flex, 67g) - also have a club head speed of approx 105mph with driver.

    I found the best place to put the weights is as far back in the y track as possible - i.e. 1 as far back as you can go in the draw setting and 1 as far back as you can go in the fade setting. This sets the club up in the most forgiving way.

    For instance the M4 and the M6 are pretty much factory set like this - i.e. weights at the back.

    Unless you have a huge club head speed, I would set the driver up like this and try it for a while - TBH I think all amateurs should set the head up like this as its the best for forgiveness - As an FYI Dustin Johnson is using the M6 head and he can fairly get it out there. :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭ kod12


    Perfect thanks for that I have a similar swing speed of 100 with the same shaft.

    Have it on Neutral now one weight at the front and one before the Y track splits and loft moved down to 9.5 degrees. Had it on 10.5 with th weight in the draw and just before the Y split but i was skying every shot way to high


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,055 ✭✭✭ irish bloke


    just another point to make.

    Do you know your average smash factor figure with driver - i.e. how well you hit the ball out of the center of the face.

    Most mid handicappers average between 1.35 to 1.4. Pros are around 1.5.

    If like me you are around 1.4 therefore sometimes hitting the ball out of the toe or heal then you will certainly benefit from the weights at the back as this allows your miss hits to not be as far off line or distance then they would be when set to neutral like you have it.

    I certainly found this with this club anyway


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭ kod12


    perfect thanks for that. Ill use those settings on the course this weekend.

    Prob i had was i kept skying the driver too but that prob has more to do with ball position that loft if i move it further back that might fix that issue


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,055 ✭✭✭ irish bloke


    kod12 wrote: »
    perfect thanks for that. Ill use those settings on the course this weekend.

    Prob i had was i kept skying the driver too but that prob has more to do with ball position that loft if i move it further back that might fix that issue

    ya, hard to know why you are skying it. you are meant to hit the ball on the upswing with a driver so not sure a forward tee position is the issue unless you have a huge positive angle of attack (you can check this on trackman or similar simulator if you wish)

    Im guessing it could be more strike related with respect to where the ball is hitting the face. I would clean the driver face before every shot and when you sky one, see is the impact point very high on the driver face. If it is then you may just be teeing the ball too high - worth a try anyway..


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