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Sound Insulation

  • 04-01-2020 9:43pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭


    Hi ,what is the best option for reducing noise travelling from a neighbours house,via the parti wall.Semi d,with block between the house.I can hear my loud neighbor every now and then.Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,634 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    mosii wrote: »
    Hi ,what is the best option for reducing noise travelling from a neighbours house,via the parti wall.Semi d,with block between the house.I can hear my loud neighbor every now and then.Thanks

    What age is the house? Is it drywall or wet plastered? There are a lot of options but I wonder if it it bad might be good to rule out missing mortar that could be exacerbating what should be low key.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    1999 .there is plaster on the block wall.
    Thanks for reply


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Any ideas?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭dermob


    Hi op,

    If it’s a standard plastered block wall you could Dryline
    It with a plasterboard or acoustic plasterboard, there are various dry lining systems available on the market.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Boredstiff666


    You need to insulate with 50mm or 100mm RW3 Rockwall slabs. This is a proper/sound/accoustic type of insulation not a thermal type as in loft insulation............and as you guessed it is more expensive but it works.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thanks for replies.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Hi Back again ,I Want to improve to sound proof/reduce alcoves in my party wall ,on either side of fireplace.Would i be better off trying to build a seperate stud partition ,to decouple from the party wall,or would i get away with batons on the wall,fill with rockwool,resiliant channel,and then sound board.Thanks in Avance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Any Ideas Guys


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,634 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    mosii wrote: »
    Hi Back again ,I Want to improve to sound proof/reduce alcoves in my party wall ,on either side of fireplace.Would i be better off trying to build a seperate stud partition ,to decouple from the party wall,or would i get away with batons on the wall,fill with rockwool,resiliant channel,and then sound board.Thanks in Avance.

    Call one of the irish companies who specialise on this. They are very helpful


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thanks, I was wondering had anybody experience of doing this job,on this forum,just to get good advice.I heard good and bad about resiliant channel ,while sound proofing and was wondering would people here have any accurate information .Companies will only push their products.Thanks


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  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    mosii wrote: »
    Any Ideas Guys

    any chance of a photo outside the house?
    or even a pm to a google maps image?

    i have a theory


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,127 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    this subject has been covered extensively on youtube. take a look. and yes I believe you are right, that it is more effect, to leave a small void and install a new stud and plasterboard. There is acoustic plasterboard, no point in not using that obviously...

    if the primary issue is the fireplace though, I suppose you dont want to throw a stud across the entire span and lose the fireplace?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thanks Idbatterim, Can i ask ,if i baton straight onto wall,would you think that the sound would transfer through the batons.I have looked on utube, but it can be a bit of information overload.Have you any experience of using reiliant channel? If i was to make a complete stud ,screwed frame onto ground, ceiling and fireplace ,im thinking i wouldnt need resiliant channel,as it would be decoupled from the party wall.But i am worried about flanking noises then.Any ideas would be appreciated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,127 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    I am not hundred percent sure, honestly, I would ring a place here in Ireland that just offers this service and ask them! far quicker!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Ok Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Hi All ,i still havnt done this soundproofing job,as planning to do in summer.Any body with experience of sound proofing allcoves in semi d.
    Would screwing 50mm batons on to parti wall ,.fill with rockwool,resilient channel,then cover with soundboard attached to channel.Would i get significant noise reduction. Appreciate any help,as u tube has me confused.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,634 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    mosii wrote: »
    Hi All ,i still havnt done this soundproofing job,as planning to do in summer.Any body with experience of sound proofing allcoves in semi d.
    Would screwing 50mm batons on to parti wall ,.fill with rockwool,resilient channel,then cover with soundboard attached to channel.Would i get significant noise reduction. Appreciate any help,as u tube has me confused.

    The big Irish sound proofing companies are really sound. Give them a call and they will guide you in the right direction.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thanks for reply.I was wondering if anybody had any first hand experience on this forum.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 Dihsurn


    I had a well known sound reduction company come out and do the wall of my bedroom, they did the decoupling, using special plastic seperators etc etc. It worked but it was expensive. The sound specialist said the chimney breast did not need insulation but he would need to go to all kinds of trouble with the wardrobe, taking doors off, insulating the wall inside refitting it etc. I have since found out no insulation was put inside the wardrobe even though I paid extra for the additional work. Some time later when it didnt feel as urgent I had a different guy not claiming any sound reduction qualifications do my other walls, building a frame filling the space with some kind of insulating boards and covering with acoustic sheets. That worked too and was a lot cheaper.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thank you,thats helpful.Can you remember if he screwed batons to the wall,or did he use the surrounding walls for make a new frame?Thanks:o:o


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 Dihsurn


    I think he used surrounding walls. Have to say I highly recommend doing sound reduction if there is an issue. It has changed the way I can now relax in my own home. Best money I ever spent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thanks a million.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 907 ✭✭✭bemak


    you need to decouple for best results. did this on our house and while it vastly improved the situation, there are times when we can hear the neighbour. It's not half as bad though. couple of things to consider.

    if you're house is built with cavity block, you've literally got stacked tunnels of lovely air for transporting flanking sound from house to house. This is more relevant in older houses.

    consider how your floor joists are spanning. if they span into the party wall and actually sit into the wall this could be the cause of your problem. For example, a block on the flat is 215mm which is a typical party wall buildup. Allow 100mm bearing for your floor joist, allow another 100mm bearing for your neighbours floor joists and on paper you have a 15mm gap. I would say that a lot of time this floor joists are actually touching resulting in sound transfer. to resolve this issue you'd need to support your first floor, cut the floor joists at the wall. remove from the wall, fill with concrete etc, install a steel rail/beam into the wall to support the floor joists.

    there is a product by gyproc, 'soundcoat plus' that is essentially a render that you can apply to blockwork to absorb sound transfer. i haven't used it but by all accounts it's good. if you put that onto your party wall first, then a decoupled 70mm acoustud fixed back to floor and ceiling (not the wall), install isoover acoustic roll including in floor voids for a depth of 1m, applied 2 x 12.5mm soundbloc acoustic plasterboards, taped and sealed, then skimmed and painted - you'll go a long way in reducing your problem. if possible avoid locating services such as sockets and tv antennas in the new wall as you want to keep penetrations to the absolute minimum. imagine the wall is keeping a flood of water out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 332 ✭✭mosii


    Thanks for time and effort.
    ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,634 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    bemak wrote: »
    consider how your floor joists are spanning. if they span into the party wall and actually sit into the wall this could be the cause of your problem. For example, a block on the flat is 215mm which is a typical party wall buildup. Allow 100mm bearing for your floor joist, allow another 100mm bearing for your neighbours floor joists and on paper you have a 15mm gap. I would say that a lot of time this floor joists are actually touching resulting in sound transfer. to resolve this issue you'd need to support your first floor, cut the floor joists at the wall. remove from the wall, fill with concrete etc, install a steel rail/beam into the wall to support the floor joists.

    In such houses is noise transmission always major? Sounds like a major effort to fix. Would steel joist hangers solve this issue? Are easi joists prone to this problem?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 907 ✭✭✭bemak


    In such houses is noise transmission always major? Sounds like a major effort to fix. Would steel joist hangers solve this issue? Are easi joists prone to this problem?

    What you're trying to stop is vibration transfer between the neighbours joists and yours which is a workmanship issue. As I've outlined the tolerances in some instances are quite small and inevitably transfer will occur. It's very hard to completely solve the problem


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