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Tiling Under Island in Kitchen

  • 16-12-2019 9:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 350 ✭✭


    I am looking at replacing tiles in the kitchen. I am going to lift the old tiles, pour levelling compound and put down new tiles. My main concern is how to replace tiles under the island. We floored under the island before putting in the kitchen and I think it's a better finish to have tiles "flow" under island rather than tiling around the island.

    Not sure how to install new tiles to ahcieve same effect though? One suggestion from tiler was to raise and move the island - not something I fancy doing with potential of cracking granite counter as well as disconnecting water, electricity etc.

    Any other potential solutions? I've attached a few images showing current tiles and island.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 743 ✭✭✭20/20


    Why not just tile over the old tiles and cut around the island.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    If tiler has more than 1 days work at your house, get everything ready except the island, let him tile half then move island onto new and get rest ready.
    You will easily move that island surely.

    No doubt you must tile straight under.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 743 ✭✭✭20/20


    mickdw wrote: »
    If tiler has more than 1 days work at your house, get everything ready except the island, let him tile half then move island onto new and get rest ready.
    You will easily move that island surely.

    No doubt you must tile straight under.

    If you read what the OP says about disconnecting water, electricity etc.
    Its not as simple to move around the island.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 350 ✭✭fitzie79


    20/20 wrote: »
    Why not just tile over the old tiles and cut around the island.

    Besides the personal aesthetic preference there's also the issue of increasing heights causing problems with the door to utility and timber in living room (open plan). It would be easier for sure but not really an option


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 350 ✭✭fitzie79


    20/20 wrote: »
    If you read what the OP says about disconnecting water, electricity etc.
    Its not as simple to move around the island.

    Electricity and water def concerns but I'm more worried about the granite and possibly damaging it. Are there options like castors that could be used to safely raise and then wheel the island? As it's an open plan area could potentially wheel to timber floor to enable tiling to be completed and then move back?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    The granite will be the least problem I'd say, it is remarkably strong.

    If it was me I'd tile over the tiles, take a piece off the bottom of the utility door and use a reducer where the new tiles meet the timber floor.

    If you are thinking of taking up those tiles yourself I can tell you from experience it is going to be a lot harder than you think and it's going to cause a lot of mess, dust and swearing with potential for accidents. Broken tiles can be sharper than razor blades.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,643 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    If you don't want to move the island, get a kitchen fitter in to take off the plinth, gables and back panel from the island. They're probably just screwed on from inside the cabinets.

    Tile underneath as far as you can then fix the panels back into place.

    I'd only take this approach if you're certain you won't want to replace the kitchen anytime soon.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    20/20 wrote: »
    If you read what the OP says about disconnecting water, electricity etc.
    Its not as simple to move around the island.

    Minor detail really as long as going back in same place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Islands are supposed to have a running board or a skirting on them which is removed and tiled under then replaced.

    Do you tile under walls ?

    Same idea.

    There should be no need to remove or lift the island


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    listermint wrote: »
    Islands are supposed to have a running board or a skirting on them which is removed and tiled under then replaced.

    Do you tile under walls ?

    Same idea.

    There should be no need to remove or lift the island

    The island doesn't levitate and he wants a continuous flow.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Disconnecting services from the island is very straightforward, it's probably the first option you should look at tbh. Tile around the island, wait for those tiles to set, 3 or four of you lift the island, tiler tiles underneath, then you move it back again after.

    Other thing to check is as listermint alludes to - originally the island might have been in place when the tiling was done, and then the panelling attached to the frame after. In that case all you'd have to do it pop the panelling off, if possible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    seamus wrote: »
    Disconnecting services from the island is very straightforward, it's probably the first option you should look at tbh. Tile around the island, wait for those tiles to set, 3 or four of you lift the island, tiler tiles underneath, then you move it back again after.

    Other thing to check is as listermint alludes to - originally the island might have been in place when the tiling was done, and then the panelling attached to the frame after. In that case all you'd have to do it pop the panelling off, if possible.

    It's tiled under the island from day 1.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,850 ✭✭✭ShamNNspace


    Check that the kicker is loose.. If so then it is clipped on to adjustable legs as it should be.. Now you can pull the kicker/skirting off and get a good look underneath where you will see probably 6 adjustable legs which you can adjust upwards to lift the unit off the tiles having firstly disconnected the waterworks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    The island doesn't levitate and he wants a continuous flow.

    You do realise that going under the running board looks like continuous flow. This really can't be that difficult any tiler worth their salt would talk sense into this one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    listermint wrote: »
    You do realise that going under the running board looks like continuous flow. This really can't be that difficult any tiler worth their salt would talk sense into this one.

    Yes, I do realise that.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Yes, I do realise that.

    Then why advise the op to lift the entire island... It's the opposite of what any tradesman would advise or do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    listermint wrote: »
    Then why advise the op to lift the entire island... It's the opposite of what any tradesman would advise or do.

    Looks continuous does not equal continuous.
    Moving the island gives more options for small movements in future or installing a different island. I realise the services are there but that would still allow significant movement if a new kitchen was being installed.
    Just doing past the kick board is the easy way out but the wrong way in my opinion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,576 ✭✭✭Rows Grower


    listermint wrote: »
    Then why advise the op to lift the entire island... It's the opposite of what any tradesman would advise or do.

    I didn’t advise that.

    "Very soon we are going to Mars. You wouldn't have been going to Mars if my opponent won, that I can tell you. You wouldn't even be thinking about it."

    Donald Trump, March 13th 2018.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,057 ✭✭✭mulbot


    OP
    Am I right in thinking the side gables and probably back panel are sitting on the ground? Removing kicker board won't help if this is the case as the gables and back panel would have to have tiles notched around. This is a horrible look. Better off disconnecting the services, move island tile under and move back into place.


  • Administrators Posts: 54,420 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Moving or lifting island unavoidable IMO given there appears to be no kickboard on 3 sides. You'll need to do it to remove the old tiles to start with.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,070 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    Whichever way you do it, I would put a seal under those panels.
    It's a nice solid oak kitchen, but most likely those panels are chipboard, and will blow if any dampness gets under them from mopping etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭GolfNut33


    Move the island and do it right. You'll be so glad you did when it's all finished.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 589 ✭✭✭lgk


    GolfNut33 wrote: »
    Move the island and do it right. You'll be so glad you did when it's all finished.

    That's the only professional approach alright. Anyone suggesting the OP can just tile under the kickboards obviously hasn't even looked at the OP's pictures!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    lgk wrote: »
    That's the only professional approach alright. Anyone suggesting the OP can just tile under the kickboards obviously hasn't even looked at the OP's pictures!

    Pictures were not there when I posted. Anyone suggesting tiling under kickboards isn't the norm. Doesn't tile.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 350 ✭✭fitzie79


    thanks for all the inputs - agree that the best long term thing to do is move the island and tile underneath. I haven't lifted the island yet but it seems heavy - are there any castors or similar that could be put under and then raised to move the island (after plumbing/elec is disconnected?)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 743 ✭✭✭20/20


    fitzie79 wrote: »
    thanks for all the inputs - agree that the best long term thing to do is move the island and tile underneath. I haven't lifted the island yet but it seems heavy - are there any castors or similar that could be put under and then raised to move the island (after plumbing/elec is disconnected?)

    Ask everyone here who has offered advice to come around to your place and lift it with you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,070 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    fitzie79 wrote: »
    thanks for all the inputs - agree that the best long term thing to do is move the island and tile underneath. I haven't lifted the island yet but it seems heavy - are there any castors or similar that could be put under and then raised to move the island (after plumbing/elec is disconnected?)
    Remove as much as you can; doors, clad-on panels,decorative pillars,and if possible the work-top.
    Jack up ,or lift unit onto a pair of these

    Or if you know a mechanic borrow his creeper.


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