chainsaw problem

magicbastarder

i may have made a rookie mistake; i last used the chainsaw about six months ago, but didn't drain the fuel (i had another job i intended to tackle which fell by the wayside).

i just started it up now - it starts and idles fine, but when i pull the trigger, the chain spins up briefly and the engine bogs down and stops; has the fuel possibly fouled up the carburettor?
i have also read that the carb could be set up to run too lean, but it's never been adjusted as it's never needed adjusting before now. the chain tension seems fine, too, it runs freely if you spin it by hand.

fiacha

Have you tried adding some fresh mix to the tank? I never drain my saw and it can sit for 12 months at a time. I add fresh fuel, leave it idle for a few minutes then run the chain. It might take a couple cycles but it always works fine after that.

macraignil

Moisture getting into the fuel can be a problem with chain saws and that is the explanation we got when we brought one in to be serviced a couple of years back when it was having problems starting. Since then the girlfriend lent it to her brother in law who also had problems with the same machine and he has since bought a better quality one. He said he was having trouble keeping the blades on the chain sharp and I found it was producing the saw dust I read was indicative of blades needing to be sharpened when I was using it as well. The point I'm getting to is that it was a cheaper model chain saw to start with and it has had multiple problems in the years since it was bought but they all seem to stem from it not being a very good saw in the first place. I think the Stihl and Husqvarna machines might be more expensive but if you are going to be using a chain saw regularly they are probably worth the extra cost to save on repairs and extra maintenance needed by cheaper saws. Next time I need to use one I will be trying to borrow the neighbour's newer Husqvarna saw rather than trying to resurrect the cheepo machine that only really worked properly for the first year or less.

If you don't get it working by adjusting the carburetor, you might have to bring it in to a professional chain saw service provider to get it diagnosed and repaired properly.

magicbastarder

Cheers, have also been reading that I need to check the air filters. Apparently the exhaust one beside the muffler can clog up and it's probably like sticking a banana up your tailpipe.

magicbastarder

managed to get the job done - i flushed out all the old fuel (emptied the tank and then let it idle till it died), and a fresh batch of fuel seemed to work - it's not firing as hard as it should, but maybe it's just a case of running it a few times to flush gunk out (if indeed that is the cause).
the bar oil is coming out faster than i'd like though, it was sitting in a small puddle of its own wee after i'd let it idle for ten minutes.

macraignil - are you sure the shavings weren't as a result of cutting into endgrain? you'll get dust that way, rather than the ribbons you'd get if cutting along the grain.

macraignil

magicbastarder wrote: »

managed to get the job done - i flushed out all the old fuel (emptied the tank and then let it idle till it died), and a fresh batch of fuel seemed to work - it's not firing as hard as it should, but maybe it's just a case of running it a few times to flush gunk out (if indeed that is the cause).
the bar oil is coming out faster than i'd like though, it was sitting in a small puddle of its own wee after i'd let it idle for ten minutes.

macraignil - are you sure the shavings weren't as a result of cutting into endgrain? you'll get dust that way, rather than the ribbons you'd get if cutting along the grain.

Can't say for sure if the fine dust being produced when I was cutting was to do with the blades on the chain being a bit blunt or the grain of the wood but it did seem to be cutting slower than it had done previously as well. Wont be worrying much about it at this stage anyway.



The more recent problem with it when I was trying to use it was that it was not starting which the neighbour fixed by getting it serviced but then still went on to buy a new saw. The neighbour probably still has the old saw that I was talking about but not being that enthusiastic about using it I will probably leave it with him. I much prefer to just use a traditional hand saw even if it takes a bit longer and the last couple of years we paid a local professional to come in and cut up enough firewood to cover a few nearby houses fuel needs in just one day cutting and done the log splitting and moving of the timber ourselves. Will be trying to keep this arrangement going rather than chainsawing myself in future. Much better than wasting time trying to do the job with a saw that was not up to the task from the day we bought it. If I do have to start doing the yearly fuel timber saw work myself I think I would buy a better quality saw that I can keep working properly and just write off the older saw that has been giving consistent trouble after its first couple of years use.

smacl

macraignil wrote: »

If I do have to start doing the yearly fuel timber saw work myself I think I would buy a better quality saw that I can keep working properly and just write off the older saw that has been giving consistent trouble after its first couple of years use.

The STIHL gear is worth a few extra bob if you have the need for it. Had a cheaper chainsaw myself but even with a number of chain replacements it was never a great tool. I have the pole based STIHL hedge trimmer and it is a joy to work with by comparison.

Thepillowman

Always empty fuel out of saws if they are been left up for a while. Sharpness shouldn't be a problem if you are cutting clean timber as most chains nowadays are Oregon. If you have angles right on teeth right should stay sharp problem could be the depth of rankers on the chain.Dont think too much oil is a problem either more of a benifit if the oil pump is driven off the crankshaft it will pool while at idle. As a stihl and husqvarna man have used a few echo saws which are good also efco they are a good bit cheaper

magicbastarder

Thepillowman wrote: »

if the oil pump is driven off the crankshaft it will pool while at idle.

cheers, that's good to know.
mine is a ryobi - cheap and cheerful, fine for the sort of jobs i need it for, maybe once or twice a year; usually for chopping up wood for woodturning.
latest lumps were some sycamore i was allowed take by some tree surgeons, felling a dead tree in glasnevin.

Thepillowman

magicbastarder wrote: »

cheers, that's good to know.
mine is a ryobi - cheap and cheerful, fine for the sort of jobs i need it for, maybe once or twice a year; usually for chopping up wood for woodturning.
latest lumps were some sycamore i was allowed take by some tree surgeons, felling a dead tree in glasnevin.

It should be good enough for that wouldn't consider sycamore a hard timber still reckon a lot of the problem is the depth gauge/rakers which allow the tooth to take a certain amount of wood with each pass, as the tooth is sloped front to back as you sharpen it allows the tooth to take less wood. As a result every few sharpenings the raker has to be lowered with a flat file and using a depth gauge any chainsaw dealer should have them for sale. Hope I have explained it ok.

magicbastarder

cheers - i outsourced the sharpening to a local service place, i think i was charged 12 quid for it. have only needed to get it done once so far.
i knew it was going to need to be sharpened at that point, because i'd gotten a root plate of a tree which had fallen during ophelia. even after having a go at it with a powerhose, chopping it up blunted the hell out of the chain.

DamoKen

Thepillowman wrote: »

Always empty fuel out of saws if they are been left up for a while. Sharpness shouldn't be a problem if you are cutting clean timber as most chains nowadays are Oregon. If you have angles right on teeth right should stay sharp problem could be the depth of rankers on the chain.Dont think too much oil is a problem either more of a benifit if the oil pump is driven off the crankshaft it will pool while at idle. As a stihl and husqvarna man have used a few echo saws which are good also efco they are a good bit cheaper

Alternatively you could use aspen. It's got a 5 year shelf life so don't need to empty the tank at the end of the season. Have used it the last two or three years on a brushcutter, and the last year on a chainsaw. Both start on the first couple of pulls on the previous years tank. Admittedly they're good quality tools so that probably helps but that's just another reason I use the aspen. Lot better for your engine. Downside is price but I find 2 5ltr at 24 a pop do me for a season for a two acre garden

ednwireland

magicbastarder wrote: »

cheers - i outsourced the sharpening to a local service place, i think i was charged 12 quid for it. have only needed to get it done once so far.
i knew it was going to need to be sharpened at that point, because i'd gotten a root plate of a tree which had fallen during ophelia. even after having a go at it with a powerhose, chopping it up blunted the hell out of the chain.

i have a dremel and use this for sharpening

https://www.mcquillantools.ie/dremel-26151453pa-chainsaw-sharpening-attachment/

its brilliant - as close as i can get to new chain and quick compared to using a file

i also have 3 stihl chainsaws..........

i use aspen fuel now as i dont use them that much

jmreire

I have a Husqvarna 460 with a 20" blade and its about 3-4 years old. Idle and locked up for most of the time, with burst of frenetic activity, then back to bed with it again. Fuel is always drained after use and prior to parking it for any extended length time. Started yesterday after one such hibernation, and it was slow to start, but did go eventually. Today same thing, started after awhile , but it began cutting out, and taking longer to start ..( fresh fuel and mix in the tank, so that can be ruled out ) Until it stopped and since then has refused to start, even after replacing the plug with a new one.The primer bulb takes a lot of pushing to get it to fill, so I'm guessing its a carburettor problem , maybe the feed pipe from the tank? Anyone have the same problem with their saw? And if so, what was the solution? Thanks in advance for any help.

delboythedub

jmreire wrote: »

I have a Husqvarna 460 with a 20" blade and its about 3-4 years old. Idle and locked up for most of the time, with burst of frenetic activity, then back to bed with it again. Fuel is always drained after use and prior to parking it for any extended length time. Started yesterday after one such hibernation, and it was slow to start, but did go eventually. Today same thing, started after awhile , but it began cutting out, and taking longer to start ..( fresh fuel and mix in the tank, so that can be ruled out ) Until it stopped and since then has refused to start, even after replacing the plug with a new one.The primer bulb takes a lot of pushing to get it to fill, so I'm guessing its a carburettor problem , maybe the feed pipe from the tank? Anyone have the same problem with their saw? And if so, what was the solution? Thanks in advance for any help.

Have a ryobi for 8 years and it starts but wont run without choke. Got a carb rebuilding kit €10.00 and it's going great . I did have to adjust the air mix screws H& L. Do not leave any petrol in the tank when not in use and then run engine till it stops.

jmreire

delboythedub wrote: »

Have a ryobi for 8 years and it starts but wont run without choke. Got a carb rebuilding kit €10.00 and it's going great . I did have to adjust the air mix screws H& L. Do not leave any petrol in the tank when not in use and then run engine till it stops.

Thanks for your reply!!:) I've always drained and emptied completely the 2T fuel, ever since I got caught out with the 1st saw I ever bought, many years ago, so its standard practice now. Problem with mine seems to be a lack of fuel..it wont start, and no matter how much you prime it with the bubble pump or have choke on or off, no go!!! My guess is that the supply tube is blocked, or it has detached from the carb...I will open it tomorrow if I have the time, and have a look. The plate beneath the carb has fuel on it, so I guess thats part of the problem,,,should not be any fuel there.

JJayoo

Try giving it a good shake for 10/15 seconds