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Hardwiring bluetooth

  • 09-11-2019 5:12pm
    #1
    newmember2
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,599 ✭✭✭


    I'm trying to install a bluetooth A2DP device in the car that needs constant power, and I've sourced an empty live terminal on the fuseboard. Do I just need to crimp some sort of blade fuse connector on the end of my device power cable and stick it in the back of the fuseboard and connect it to the live I've found with a fuse and bring the ground cable of the bluetooth device to a suitable ground on the chassis?


Comments

  • #2
    newmember2
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,599 ✭✭✭newmember2


    Ha...it seems nobody knows what I'm on about. I probably didn't make it clear enough in the first post.
    The empty live terminal I have found in the fuseboard only has the receiver connector for the blade fuse on one side of the slot(the power side), so my idea was to bring a cable in through the back of the fuseboard with the receiver for the other side crimped onto it, then just pop in the fuse and I'd have a neat fused live feed to the device I'm trying to install. Can these receiver things I'm talking about be bought as a crimp on connector does anyone know? Or does anyone know the correct name for what I'm talking about?

    EDIT: A picture speaks a thousand words...
    cr6hWaEm.jpg


    ...you can see in a few of the empty slots that there's only a brass connector/receiver for the fuse in one side of the slot


  • #3
    TherapyBoy
    Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators Posts: 4,469 Mod ✭✭✭✭TherapyBoy


    Might be easier, neater & more sturdy to just connect your live to the wiring behind the fuseboard.
    If you have an empty terminal on one side it’ll be wired in from the back. Find the wire at the back of the fuseboard, strip it & connect your live to it directly. You can wire a fuse/fuseholder in at this end, close to where you connected the live & it’ll be safe & accessible if you needed access to it again at some stage in the future. Around the fusebox there will usually be a negative ground pickup connection or at worst easy access to a crossbeam or direct to the bodywork for your ground.
    Connecting to the live through a fuse the way you are describing will probably work fine but it could be tricky getting the fuse held on both sides if you use a crimped terminal in this way, if you weren’t sure about stripping the wire you could use a male spade terminal in the empty fuse space, run the wiring through to the back of the fusebox & fuse it there instead.

    Moderator: Non Drinkers Group & Grand Theft Auto



  • #4
    Irish Steve
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    do a quick search on piggy back fuse holder, it goes in to where an existing fuse is fitted, and continues to provide power to that circuit, and a second fuse comes out on a flying lead that can then be connected to the charger /power device. No messing, and very simple and quick to fit.

    There are several sizes, which one you need will depend on the size of fuse fitted in the vehicle.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • #5
    newmember2
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,599 ✭✭✭newmember2


    Irish Steve wrote: »
    do a quick search on piggy back fuse holder, it goes in to where an existing fuse is fitted, and continues to provide power to that circuit, and a second fuse comes out on a flying lead that can then be connected to the charger /power device. No messing, and very simple and quick to fit.

    There are several sizes, which one you need will depend on the size of fuse fitted in the vehicle.

    Yes, I did this in the end. I was thinking my original idea would've been a lot tidier and OE looking, can't believe you can't buy the connector I was looking for the same as the existing brass connector crimped onto the OE wiring.


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