Rewiring router switch

jogdish

Hi,
I have a Bosch POF 1200 AE router, and am trying to make a table to mount it to for ease of use.
I will mount the router upsidedown ( bit poking up from underneath ), however I will need to rewire the manual switch controls from the two button safety to a simple on/off plug switch.


Does anyone have any advice on how best to go about this without making a total mess of the unit?

listermint

You could go ultra simple and cable tie all the buttons closed. And wire the existing power cable into a red green safety switch.

jogdish

listermint wrote: »

You could go ultra simple and cable tie all the buttons closed. And wire the existing power cable into a red green safety switch.

Ahh perhaps the best, since it allows for using it without the table in the future again.
Welcome for anymore suggestions but this might be the most straightforward.


It's a weekend project when I have time, hopefully can post an image in a month or two.

corglass

jogdish wrote: »

Ahh perhaps the best, since it allows for using it without the table in the future again.
Welcome for anymore suggestions but this might be the most straightforward.


It's a weekend project when I have time, hopefully can post an image in a month or two.

Go with earlier suggestion of cable tie the existing switch and add a new separate one.

Best solution for simplicity and safety

my3cents

Just on the point of safety my I suggest a no volt release switch.

Most bench mounted tools have them all it means is if there is no power the switch relay switches off so you can't plug the tool in and have it suddenly
spring into life.

Edit> I have something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-ILRCDNG-Non-Latching-Line-Safety/dp/B006X09WAA/ that I have made up into a short extension lead that I use with a lot of power tools. Its a non latching RCD so has the all the benefits of a no volt release switch plus an RCD.

chillyspoon

These work well and take the whole wiring issue away, although the plug orientation isn't great:

https://www.charnwood.net/products/product/nvr-safety-switch-240v-w026

Still need to fix the router in an on position with a cable tie etc.

my3cents

Another less safe idea is one that Black n Decker used to use with their saw table that clamped into a workmate.

You got a plastic clip that went around the switch on your attached saw to hold it on and the clip had a piece of string to pull as an emergency stop

the_pen_turner

chillyspoon wrote: »

These work well and take the whole wiring issue away, although the plug orientation isn't great:

https://www.charnwood.net/products/product/nvr-safety-switch-240v-w026

Still need to fix the router in an on position with a cable tie etc.

I have a trend one of them . It's very handy for lots of different tools. I have it on a dust collector that is under a bench out of the way.

Very handy to be ably to clamp it in different positions on the router table for different jobs

listermint

Just a thought but how often are you going to use this. I bought Aldi universal router table last year and it comes configured already with switch etc and needs nothing.

Why not just get a universal mounting table and you can build a larger table around it if needed

Stoner

I'm doing the same thing

I picked up some t track on eBay for the fence and have an emergency stop on off switch that I'll use compression glands on to connect the router in a d out of it.

chillyspoon

the_pen_turner wrote: »

It's very handy for lots of different tools. I have it on a dust collector that is under a bench out of the way.

That's exactly what I do too - with the whole chebang plugged into a remote control plug adapter.

jogdish

Tiny update :

So before doing everything I wanted to test if my set up would work, so I have this vice mounted for a quick proof of concept:
top half

bottom half

,
then I went to feed in a piece of wood ( that I have previously router-ed ) every time it just grabs the wood and flicks it to one side making it unable to give any usable router-ing - I have checked the orientation of the router rotation and matched with the feeding wood, and then tried every other way of feeding the wood in - same result every time just snaps the wood and makes it impossible to cut. The only thing I can think of is that when using the router handheld i was pressing down with force which is absent in the table mounted form.

Any advice?

listermint

Check the sharpness of the bit also keep the depth lower. You aren't meant to go full hog on certain timber types. You have to go like 7mm at a time

garv123

jogdish wrote: »

Tiny update :

So before doing everything I wanted to test if my set up would work, so I have this vice mounted for a quick proof of concept:
top half

bottom half

,
then I went to feed in a piece of wood ( that I have previously router-ed ) every time it just grabs the wood and flicks it to one side making it unable to give any usable router-ing - I have checked the orientation of the router rotation and matched with the feeding wood, and then tried every other way of feeding the wood in - same result every time just snaps the wood and makes it impossible to cut. The only thing I can think of is that when using the router handheld i was pressing down with force which is absent in the table mounted form.

Any advice?

Are you trying to router free hand without a bearing cutter and jig, or fence?

That might not be the easiest. You had more control holding the router and clamping the timber.
We have 4 tables set up and working flat out daily, only ever used with bearing cutters tho, you still need a firm grip on the piece.

jogdish

garv123 wrote: »

Are you trying to router free hand without a bearing cutter and jig, or fence?

That might not be the easiest. You had more control holding the router and clamping the timber.
We have 4 tables set up and working flat out daily, only ever used with bearing cutters tho, you still need a firm grip on the piece.

Well was doing a proof of concept for myself (im fairly crap at building so always like to check step by step). Have an aluminum rail to make a fence planned, not sure what bearing cutter is?

But yes as a test was just shoving a piece of scrap wood in and seeing what happened.

chillyspoon

This is a bearing cutter; https://www.thecarpentrystore.com/p/trend-90-degree-triple-flute-trimmer-c134-127mm-diameter/5027654017418

The bearing runs along either another part of the workpiece or a template.

Quite frankly you've been lucky - routers are the hidden demons of the workshop and every bit as dangerous as a tablesaw. They're extremely good at moulding and shaping timber, which also means they're extremely good at moulding and shaping humans. Putting a piece of wood into a router without any support is, well - let's just say again you were lucky.

Any of the following are safer and will yield good results:
- Get that fence in there asap.
- Use a cutter with a bearing
- Install a starting pin/peg -> this is easy and infinitely safer than the test you did: https://www.rockler.com/back-to-basics-mdash-starter-pin-on-the-router-table

Get on YouTube and watch a load of videos about starting off with routing, you'll save yourself a load of hassle (and timber!)

garv123

jogdish wrote: »

Well was doing a proof of concept for myself (im fairly crap at building so always like to check step by step). Have an aluminum rail to make a fence planned, not sure what bearing cutter is?

But yes as a test was just shoving a piece of scrap wood in and seeing what happened.

As said above, table routers can be very dangerous. People use bearing cutters along with jigs cut from mdf with a jig saw and sanded to shape. You stick the mdf to the timber and cut away as much as the excess as possible with a jigsaw.
The bearing runs along the mdf, which transfers the shape onto the timber.

Table routers aren't designed for cutting big chunks, we always try and jigsaw/bandsaw away as much as possible, this helps prevent the piece kicking.

Keep your hands flat on top of the piece, dont hang your fingers over the side, it could be bye bye finger if it kicks.

jogdish

Hello again OP here, so it only took a global pandemic but had another go at my DIY table router, have a small table and the router set into it, my only issue is the fences other than using clamps clamps and more clamps I have no idea how to make fences that are rigid and adjustable given materials that I can easily get at woodies.

Video of it, let me know and suggestions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10PUjNnd8xk0L5cn83IUKDAUY--PAtHfn/view?usp=sharing

hesker

Have you checked out Matthias Wandel or John Heisz on YouTube. Pretty sure one or both of them show how to build your own.

jack of all

You could make up a simple L shaped fence from MDF with small triangles or squares glued and screwed in the corners for reinforcement. Each end of this fence could then be clamped down to your base/ table- simple, infinite adjustment for basic routing operations. You'll need to make some cut out in the vertical face for the cutters. If using MDF give it a few coats of thinned down poly varnish and polish with wax furniture polish to improve slickness.