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VW Golf 1.4P Mk5 starting very rough this morning, can I fix it myself?

  • 14-10-2019 8:57am
    #1
    MrMiata
    Closed Accounts Posts: 393 ✭✭


    I started my car this morning and it revved up a little before dying off.
    I tried again and same thing happened, again and when I revved it it was stuttering like hell.

    I'm getting a little spanner flashing up on the dash.

    I know a few months back 2 coil packs where changed, I was driving and all of a sudden the car started stuttering badly and it lost power (not completely but mostly) I can't remember if I got a check engine light or just the spanner on the dash.

    I was thinking of buying 2 coil packs for the car and changing them myself.

    I brought it to a mechanic the last time and he charged something like €180.
    Saying the parts were around €40-50 each, I looked online just there and they're about 20 quid.

    I need the car for college tomorrow but I don't fancy getting fleeced.

    Am I right to think it's the coil pack(s)?
    Would I be alright driving it a bit up the road to buy the parts?


Comments

  • #2
    joujoujou
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,971 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Driving a car with faulty coil packs would easily damage catalytic converter. Get fault codes read and act appropriately.


  • #3
    Toyotafanboi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Is it the 1.4 TSI or the n/a 1.4?


  • #4
    MrMiata
    Closed Accounts Posts: 393 ✭✭MrMiata


    Toyotafanboi wrote: »
    Is it the 1.4 TSI or the n/a 1.4?

    Na, I brought it down to the mechanic as it needed a service anyway, the check oil light came on on the way over too which made me look/feel like a muppet.

    He said it's probably something small (dodgy connection, fuel) but he doesn't think it's the coil pack(s)


  • #5
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    Don't go buying and replacing parts willy nilly on the chance that it will cure a problem. That is pure luck and a waste of time and money.

    If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of the coils against the range that it is supposed to be in.
    You'd have to look that up.

    Primary winding should be in the range of a few or few 10s of ohms. Too high and the coil is broken.
    Secondary winding should be a few thousand ohms. Too high or very low and the coil is broken.


  • #6
    MrMiata
    Closed Accounts Posts: 393 ✭✭MrMiata


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    Don't go buying and replacing parts willy nilly on the chance that it will cure a problem. That is pure luck and a waste of time and money.

    If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of the coils against the range that it is supposed to be in.
    You'd have to look that up.

    Primary winding should be in the range of a few or few 10s of ohms. Too high and the coil is broken.
    Secondary winding should be a few thousand ohms. Too high or very low and the coil is broken.

    I sorted it, I bit the bullet and send it down to a mechanic.
    He said fuel filter was as old as they come and there was a bit of **** built up in the tank over the years.

    Just as well I brought it down because one of the brake lines has frayed a little and one rear calliper/brake pad were sticking, the other side wasn't in great nick either.
    Could have been fine or something could have easily failed/seized up on me if I braked hard enough.


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