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Fitting a solid floor

  • 10-10-2019 9:27pm
    #1
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,497 ✭✭✭


    Going to fit a reclaimed soild floor in the next week or two.
    Plan is to lay it on 18mm osb with secret nails. Can I use narrower osb?
    Osb is going straight onto a 40 year old concrete floor.
    Do I need any sort of moisture barrier under the osb?no problem with moisture in the house.
    Any advice regarding the nailer/nail size?
    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,173 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    Going to fit a reclaimed soild floor in the next week or two.
    Plan is to lay it on 18mm osb with secret nails. Can I use narrower osb?
    Osb is going straight onto a 40 year old concrete floor.
    Do I need any sort of moisture barrier under the osb?no problem with moisture in the house.
    Any advice regarding the nailer/nail size?
    Thanks

    What I did was used foam insulation first on the floor to take out any minor imperfections and add a small but of insulation. Screwfix do great rectangular sheets of the stuff which is easy to work with rather than the rolls.

    I then used 12mm OSB on top and glued my floor to the OSB . This creates a floating floor similar to how you'd lay a laminate. To prevent bowing and squeeze if there's movement.

    This was with a reclaimed parquet oak floor that I got from a church in the UK.


  • #3
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,497 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thanks lister,
    I think I will go with the 12mm osb to make the transitions easier.
    Did you just use your standard evo stickwood glue?
    This the stuff you went with ?


    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/wood-fibre-underlay-boards-7m.html

    I'd love parquet in our hallway,


  • #4
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    This the stuff you went with ?

    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/wood-fibre-underlay-boards-7m.html
    Listermint was referring to foam, not woodfibre.

    I've used woodfibre to raise a subfloor by a few mm. It won't easily fix a problem with levels, you'll still see a bump. I know this because I left a tiny bit of rockwool poking over a joist, and I had to use a load of woodfibre sheets and then leave strategic gaps over the bump. I sort of fixed it, but not entirely.

    To get a properly flat floor you need to use some kind of self-levelling screed.


  • #5
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,497 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Lumen wrote: »
    To get a properly flat floor you need to use some kind of self-levelling screed.

    Im not concerned with the levelness/flatness of the floor (although that might change over the weekend when I take the carpet up).
    I'm more concerned about the possibility of moisture coming out of the concrete.


  • #6
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    Im not concerned with the levelness/flatness of the floor (although that might change over the weekend when I take the carpet up).
    I'm more concerned about the possibility of moisture coming out of the concrete.
    Ah right. Woodfibre doesn't really wick very well and those thin sheets are unbelievablly fragile, but at least they're diffusion open so won't let moisture accumulate underneath. But you're proposing to put OSB over the top, which isn't very diffusion open, so....?

    I used Elka Strong Board instead of OSB for maximum permeability, but it's a bit thinner at 12mm so you'd get less penetration for fixing.

    Not really sure about your hidden nails question. Work out the penetration at 45 degrees I guess.

    Maybe seal the concrete first?


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