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Immersion

  • 05-10-2019 6:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 316 ✭✭


    Looking for help here, haven't dealt with immersions before.

    Have a 2/2.85Kw immersion, sink/bath usual set up.

    One thing, when it's switched to either bath or sink, both elements are receiving 230v?

    Is it knackered?

    https://imgur.com/YnY5bWr

    Ohms on bath are 28
    Ohms on sink are 20

    But ohms between the two elements are 48?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,828 ✭✭✭meercat


    Looking for help here, haven't dealt with immersions before.

    Have a 2/2.85Kw immersion, sink/bath usual set up.

    One thing, when it's switched to either bath or sink, both elements are receiving 230v?

    Is it knackered?

    https://imgur.com/YnY5bWr

    Ohms on bath are 28
    Ohms on sink are 20

    But ohms between the two elements are 48?

    Check the high limit stat hasn’t tripped


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Last time I posted about this I made a right balls of it so check everything I say :o

    The neutral is connected to the thermostat and the live is switched so it goes to either one element or the other.

    This is a fairly standard switch https://www.mkelectric.com/Documents/English/EN%20MK%20Installation%20Manuals/Wiring%20Devices/Logic%20Plus/Dual%20switch%20instruction.pdf however there is normally only one neutral wire going to the immersion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    Surely the elements are mixed up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 316 ✭✭johnnyfruitcake


    Here's the pic.

    The switch works, but getting 230 on both elements no matter which way it's switched


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    my3cents wrote: »
    Last time I posted about this I made a right balls of it so check everything I say :o

    The neutral is connected to the thermostat and the live is switched so it goes to either one element or the other.

    .........


    No, the blue wire is connected to the thermostat, it might be used as a live


    The OP needs to stick their meter on it n see if it's live



    ( by the sounds of it though, it's being used as a live and the neutral is switched between the two elements)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    OK so put the cap back on because its correct at the tank end.

    So a picture of the switch would be good.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    gctest50 wrote: »
    No, the blue wire is connected to the thermostat, it might be used as a live


    The OP needs to stick their meter on it n see if it's live



    ( by the sounds of it though, it's being used as a live and the neutral is switched between the two elements)

    Blue wire goes to the cut out which goes via a brown wire to the thermostat which in turn is connected to both neutrals on the elements so looks OK to me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 316 ✭✭johnnyfruitcake


    my3cents wrote: »
    OK so put the cap back on because its correct at the tank end.

    So a picture of the switch would be good.

    Hard to see, but the switch looks correct (the incoming is looped to a spur)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    The Brown and black wires should be going to the right hand switch in my example in the pdf link so the live mains in when on is switched between L1 and L2.

    Ediit> didn't see your post with the picture. tbh it all looks find to me what is that actual problem? Don't forget the elements have a common neutral when you test so the 48 ohm result above is to be expected.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 316 ✭✭johnnyfruitcake


    my3cents wrote: »
    The Brown and black wires should be going to the right hand switch in my example in the pdf link so the live mains in when on is switched between L1 and L2.

    Ediit> didn't see your post with the picture. tbh it all looks find to me what is that actual problem? Don't forget the elements have a common neutral when you test so the 48 ohm result above is to be expected.


    Found it, there's another little reset button on the neutral link at the element.

    Thanks for the help.

    Time for a bath now 😬


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Found it, there's another little reset button on the neutral link at the element.

    Thanks for the help.

    Time for a bath now ��

    The cap that goes over that normally has a hole or a button that lines up with that button so you don't need to take the cap off to do the reset.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    230v will also appear on both elements when the stat set point is reached, as in, when the stat switches off the immersion when the water is heated up to temperature.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal



    Ohms on bath are 28
    Ohms on sink are 20

    But ohms between the two elements are 48?

    Bath would be 20 and sink 28 as a matter of interest there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 316 ✭✭johnnyfruitcake


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Bath would be 20 and sink 28 as a matter of interest there.

    A plumber wired it up, I'll change it around


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    A plumber wired it up, I'll change it around

    Its easy to have them the wrong way.

    Confirm by having someone switching from bath to sink while you watch the meter. It should speed up on bath compared to sink.

    The less other items are on, the easier it is to see the change.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,828 ✭✭✭meercat


    meercat wrote: »
    Check the high limit stat hasn’t tripped

    You’ve reset the high limit stat


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Bath would be 20 and sink 28 as a matter of interest there.

    I mentioned this quite a few posts ago.


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