Re-routing bathroom water pipes

portron niner

I'm doing a remodel of my bathroom and want to move the location of the water pipes to a far wall. I've removed the bathtub and am installing a shower on the far wall. The existing pipes are 3/4 copper. Would I have to route them beneath the floor boards? It's a 1st floor bathroom. The existing pipes are at an internal partition wall and I want to have them at the front structural wall of the house. The party wall runs between these two walls. Also, I've never done anything like this myself, is it advisable to attempt it?

keithdub

I wouldn't if I were you if you need some knowledge about plumbing is it a electric shower or a pumped shower? How are you going to tap into the waste? You could labour for the person you get in. At least then if anything goes wrong you just need to make a call

listermint

Depending on the type of wall that you have typically the wall would have to be chased out for the pipes.

And a bath can take a different feed to a shower depending on the shower you want this job will be more complex than the information provided.

I'd say get a plumber.

Calahonda52

OP: that a world of hurt you are taking on there for the first time over the hurdles so to speak:
3/4 pipe /floor boards/ joists either drilled or notched safely
shower into solid wall.../ rerouting a new waste under the floor
hugh potential for leaks, wet/ collapsed ceilings
What I would do with the solid wall issue is build out a stud wall and hide all the pipework behind it, easily.
use wpb ply and the green plasterboard.
Is the bath history?
ps
a universe of hurt

Sharp MZ700

Having done something similar to yourself OP I'd recommend getting a plumber in. 3 hours work possibly with gear and everything just to stay waterproof is worth the few quid.

antiskeptic

portron niner wrote: »

I'm doing a remodel of my bathroom and want to move the location of the water pipes to a far wall. I've removed the bathtub and am installing a shower on the far wall. The existing pipes are 3/4 copper. Would I have to route them beneath the floor boards? It's a 1st floor bathroom. The existing pipes are at an internal partition wall and I want to have them at the front structural wall of the house. The party wall runs between these two walls. Also, I've never done anything like this myself, is it advisable to attempt it?

I bought my first house armed with a Black and Decker circular saw a girlfriend had, for some inexplicable reason (we lived in a completely finished 2nd floor apartment at the time) bought me as a present.

Bar for plastering and given the time to do it, I could now build a passable house.

If you want to learn DIY then you will have to embark upon that path with the opportunities that present themselves to you. If you want to be reasonably sure (but by no means certainly sure) of no leaks, then get a plumber.

You have a benefit I didn't have. Youtube.

Joey the lips

As this is diy i gather it wha you want to do. Consider qualpex for the water feed and flexing entending for the soil and sewer.

Make surw you use the insert, olive and nut in the qualpex.

Underfloor for everything up to 1-1/2" is possible

GreeBo

Calahonda52 wrote: »

OP: that a world of hurt you are taking on there for the first time over the hurdles so to speak:
3/4 pipe /floor boards/ joists either drilled or notched safely
shower into solid wall.../ rerouting a new waste under the floor
hugh potential for leaks, wet/ collapsed ceilings
What I would do with the solid wall issue is build out a stud wall and hide all the pipework behind it, easily.
use wpb ply and the green plasterboard.
Is the bath history?
ps
a universe of hurt

Drill the joists through the centreline....notching them weakens them considerably unless its within the 1st 25% of the span (and also makes it more likely that someone sticks a nail/screw through them!)

Unless of course the joists are oversized for the span.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7QSTOTMymU

portron niner

Thanks everyone for the opinions, all of it is welcome. The pipework WILL be routed up a stud wall built up on the structural wall. There's a small stud in existence which spanned the gap between the bathtub and the structural wall. It's only about 1200 high and was tiled to provide a shelf at the end of the bathtub. I was planning on building this up to the ceiling with marine ply and having the pipework concealed behind it etc.
I was definitely going to use Qualpex to continue the pipework beneath the floorboards, routing to through the joists which I would drill, not notch. Would there be any problem using push fittings to connect the copper pipe to the Qualpex? Also, should all the pipe travel level or should there be a slight upward slope? Someone told me this is advisable to avoid airlock. Attached is a photo of the area concerned.
It's all still up in the air at the moment. I have a guy coming to look at it tonight and if his price is good I'll be taking a step back and letting the professionals deal with it.

portron niner

Thanks everyone for the opinions, all of it is welcome. The pipework WILL be routed up a stud wall built up on the structural wall. There's a small stud in existence which spanned the gap between the bathtub and the structural wall. It's only about 1200 high and was tiled to provide a shelf at the end of the bathtub. I was planning on building this up to the ceiling with marine ply and having the pipework concealed behind it etc.
I was definitely going to use Qualpex to continue the pipework beneath the floorboards, routing to through the joists which I would drill, not notch. Would there be any problem using push fittings to connect the copper pipe to the Qualpex? Also, should all the pipe travel level or should there be a slight upward slope? Someone told me this is advisable to avoid airlock. Attached is a photo of the area concerned.
It's all still up in the air at the moment. I have a guy coming to look at it tonight and if his price is good I'll be taking a step back and letting the professionals deal with it.

Calahonda52

if it were my gig, I would bring the water over, under the floor to where the bath waste pipe is and conceal in that wall. Drilling joists without the right kit: eg auger bit and a right angled chuck on a powerful drill is a mugs game

antiskeptic

portron niner wrote: »

Thanks everyone for the opinions, all of it is welcome. The pipework WILL be routed up a stud wall built up on the structural wall. There's a small stud in existence which spanned the gap between the bathtub and the structural wall. It's only about 1200 high and was tiled to provide a shelf at the end of the bathtub. I was planning on building this up to the ceiling with marine ply and having the pipework concealed behind it etc.
I was definitely going to use Qualpex to continue the pipework beneath the floorboards, routing to through the joists which I would drill, not notch. Would there be any problem using push fittings to connect the copper pipe to the Qualpex? Also, should all the pipe travel level or should there be a slight upward slope? Someone told me this is advisable to avoid airlock. Attached is a photo of the area concerned.
It's all still up in the air at the moment. I have a guy coming to look at it tonight and if his price is good I'll be taking a step back and letting the professionals deal with it.

Any decent plumber I know isn't convinced by push fits, there is more certainty and robustness with a compression.

I'd be avoiding joints under the floors and in walls if i could. Sweeping runs and joints in areas you can access (above the floor, behind a shower mixer and the like)

GreeBo

antiskeptic wrote: »

Any decent plumber I know isn't convinced by push fits, there is more certainty and robustness with a compression.

I'd be avoiding joints under the floors and in walls if i could. Sweeping runs and joints in areas you can access (above the floor, behind a shower mixer and the like)

Have they any reason to doubt them?

Pushfit/sharkbite connections have been tested by amateurs over 50psi...I think they will be ok in any domestic situation.
Hundreds of videos online comparing performance.

+1 on joint free sweeping curves though.