pallet garden shed 16ft x 10ft

bassy · 28-07-2019 10:50pm #1

hey guys in the middle of putting this up and have the base layed with pallets and the floor on top,have put up the first row of pallets all around and have started the 2nd row on top of the first ones.

the narrow sides being 10ft wide are solid,but the long 16ft side is a bit of play in it,i have braced pallets to each other.
when I finish putting the top row on,what would be the best way to get the whole structure fairly solid especially the two 16ft sides.

one side of the 16ft is not so bad as I have left a opening of about 60 inches for doors.its the other 16ft long side I would be worried about.

would 4x2 timber all around the top of the 2nd row of pallets make it secure and more solid?, and take the play out of it (by play I mean kind of wobble from top.

my3cents · 29-07-2019 2:55pm

All depends on the type of pallets you have some pics would help?

Lumen · 29-07-2019 3:14pm

A triangulated roof structure will brace and stabilise the walls.

bassy · 29-07-2019 3:15pm

Lumen wrote: »

A triangulated roof structure will brace and stabilise the walls.

Can you explain more on this please

keithdub · 29-07-2019 3:38pm

Put in a roof that will take out the wobble

bassy · 29-07-2019 3:40pm

Ah ye i get ye now i will be putting 5 triangulated rafters on top.one at each end and 3 spread out in the middle.
I would upload pics only im not sure on how to do it.

bladespin · 29-07-2019 3:55pm

Pics bassy, we need pics!

Dying to try this out, have been stockpiling pallets for the past couple of months.

bassy · 29-07-2019 5:53pm

Will try later see can i get pics up

keithdub · 29-07-2019 9:40pm

Try put at least 6 in the middle

bassy · 29-07-2019 10:11pm

keithdub wrote: »

Try put at least 6 in the middle

:rolleyes:

mloc123 · 30-07-2019 10:34am

bassy wrote: »

:rolleyes:

16ft is a long span for just 5 rafters... what type of roof material are you putting on?

acoy03 · 30-07-2019 11:52am

nice

bassy · 30-07-2019 9:18pm

mloc123 wrote: »

16ft is a long span for just 5 rafters... what type of roof material are you putting on?

was thinking of going with a lean to roof 4x2,s across the 10ft width and sheets of plywood on it then covered with good quality felt.

my3cents · 30-07-2019 9:46pm

Ten foot span with 4x2's is cutting it a bit thin I wouldn't want to be standing on that torching felt on even with the rafters at 16 inch centers.

I have a flat roof that is 10 ft across and have 5x2's at 16 inch centers and its only just fit to walk on.

4x2's at garden shed spacings of 24 inches or more and I would crawling around on it putting the felt on.

bassy · 30-07-2019 9:52pm

my3cents wrote: »

Ten foot span with 4x2's is cutting it a bit thin I wouldn't want to be standing on that torching felt on even with the rafters at 16 inch centers.

I have a flat roof that is 10 ft across and have 5x2's at 16 inch centers and its only just fit to walk on.

4x2's at garden shed spacings of 24 inches or more and I would crawling around on it putting the felt on.

what size timber would you suggest

my3cents · 30-07-2019 10:14pm

bassy wrote: »

what size timber would you suggest

Depends how mean you want to be with the number of rafters. 5x2 is what I used and its fine on solid walls at house joist spacing (16inch centers). Sheds tend to buck that a bit and have wider spacing. So I'd consider 5 x 2 a minimum size and prefer 6 x 2. Don't forget if you brace the rafters with noggins you'll improve the strength. Really you need to price out the difference between say 5x2 at 16 inc centers v 6x2 at 2 foot centers. If you are using ply or sterling board for the roof then you really want centers that fit with the size of the boards (so you waste the minimum with cutting) with noggins under the joins. So price up 12 foot 6 x 2 at 2 foot centers and noggins every 4 foot. Plus timber for edges. Its not just the size of the rafters its the material you put on them sterling board or shuttering ply would be the cheapest so you have to have rafters close enough together so you don't just bend the sheets so much that they break if you walk on them. Absolute min I think you could get away with would be 5 x 2 at 2 foot centers with noggins every 2 foot.

I'd also use a single layer of torch on felt done right it will last at least 20 years.

Stoner · 31-07-2019 7:28pm

my3cents wrote:

I'd also use a single layer of torch on felt done right it will last at least 20 years.

Would you consider corrugated iron?

my pallet dog houses got a new roof last month. I was thinking I'd avoid felt if I made one again, but mine will out last me

bassy · 31-07-2019 8:00pm

Thinking 5 sheets of 10ft non drip for the roof and be finished with it.

bassy · 23-08-2019 8:00pm

hey guys got the roof on had to get ten 5ft6 sheets of non drip galvanise,made a mistake putting the sheets on.i put the screws in the valleys of the sheets the correct way I was told was on the high points of the sheet as there less water on the high points and the valleys are where the water flows.kinda pissed off to have made that idiotic mistake.

I wonder will the be ok,as not a lot can be done now as there sunk home I used 60mm long self drill tek screws,i also fitted a rubber like gromit on every screw even though there was thin ones already on them.

I will get away at the highpoint of roof at the front as im putting flash on the front and over the front top of roof so that will cover the top of shed roof where the screws are there,but its the middle and bottom (low end) that I cannot do anything about at this stage,maybe the will not leak but I wonder would the leak over time?.

DublinDilbert · 23-08-2019 8:40pm

bassy wrote: »

hey guys got the roof on had to get ten 5ft6 sheets of non drip galvanise,made a mistake putting the sheets on.i put the screws in the valleys of the sheets the correct way I was told was on the high points of the sheet as there less water on the high points and the valleys are where the water flows.kinda pissed off to have made that idiotic mistake.

I wonder will the be ok,as not a lot can be done now as there sunk home I used 60mm long self drill tek screws,i also fitted a rubber like gromit on every screw even though there was thin ones already on them.

I will get away at the highpoint of roof at the front as im putting flash on the front and over the front top of roof so that will cover the top of shed roof where the screws are there,but its the middle and bottom (low end) that I cannot do anything about at this stage,maybe the will not leak but I wonder would the leak over time?.

The correct way according to the companies that supply the sheets and tech screws is to screw into the valeys and not deform the sheet, allow the washer to do its job. The roofer that done mine made me get longer tech screws, than the correct ones the supplier gave me, so he could fix it at the high points in the profile.

bassy · 23-08-2019 8:44pm

bassy · 23-08-2019 8:53pm

DublinDilbert wrote: »

The correct way according to the companies that supply the sheets and tech screws is to screw into the valeys and not deform the sheet, allow the washer to do its job. The roofer that done mine made me get longer tech screws, than the correct ones the supplier gave me, so he could fix it at the high points in the profile.

roofer friend of mine was,nt to impressed with me said I should have not screwed in the valleys I should have put the screws in the high points of the sheets,i said that would dent the high points he said no just do not over screw.i dunno one says one way others say the opposite...…………………………….

my3cents · 23-08-2019 9:09pm

Your roofer friend was right. Traditional round section corrugated galvanised iron you fix from the high points. Modern square section you fix in the valleys.

But looks good.

bassy · 23-08-2019 9:12pm

my3cents wrote: »

Your roofer friend was right. Traditional round section corrugated galvanised iron you fix from the high points. Modern square section you fix in the valleys.

But looks good.

cheers,i wonder will it be ok ?.

my3cents · 23-08-2019 9:15pm

bassy wrote: »

cheers,i wonder will it be ok ?.

If you screwed it and the screws had rubber washers you should be OK.

You could always take it off and turn the sheets over then they holes will be on the top.

Traditionally you'd always nail cgi, no rubber washers, rarely glavanised washers so the nails had to go in the high points to stop leaking.

bassy · 23-08-2019 9:18pm

my3cents wrote: »

If you screwed it and the screws had rubber washers you should be OK.

You could always take it off and turn the sheets over then they holes will be on the top.

Traditionally you'd always nail cgi, no rubber washers, rarely glavanised washers so the nails had to go in the high points to stop leaking.

cannot turn them over cause there non drip coated on the inside.

my3cents · 23-08-2019 9:26pm

bassy wrote: »

cannot turn them over cause there non drip coated on the inside.

If you don't have rubber washers or they aren't well sealed back the screw out put some silicon under them and then tighten again.

bassy · 23-08-2019 9:29pm

my3cents wrote: »

If you don't have rubber washers or they aren't well sealed back the screw out put some silicon under them and then tighten again.

theres 2 on the screw,the tek screw comes with its own skinny kinda flat washer and I added the black rubber washers that are used on galvanised sheets.i should have known from the groove in the black rubber washer that you screw on the high points lol,oh some head on me lol.

JustJoe7240 · 23-08-2019 9:37pm

bassy wrote: »

cheers,i wonder will it be ok ?.

They'll be fine, Have put hundreds of square meters of sheeting on that way, on different buildings here and have never had a single issue.

bassy · 23-08-2019 9:39pm

JustJoe7240 wrote: »

They'll be fine, Have put hundreds of square meters of sheeting on that way, on different buildings here and have never had a single issue.

cheers

pallet garden shed 16ft x 10ft

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