Mf 5455 issue

amacca

Don't suppose anyone could help with this

I have an mf5455 (non slopey nose if that makes a difference) and fuse 6 keeps blowing when the key in the ignition is turned to the position just before engine is cranked/turned over

Thing is when you turn the key fully the tractor will still start fine so I'm assuming ther3s no fault in starter motor or fuel pump.

Fuse 6 is also for instrument panel, pto and the manual has (transmission) in brackets on that fuse too. I've sent a signal from blown fuse through instrument panel and traced it as far as the solenoids and I can't find any evidence of a short/wire earthing between fuse and solenoids etc

Anyone have any ideas, id like to get my high/low, 4wd and pro back working as all I have now is a 2wd tractor with a lift!

Is there a cold start advance on those that could be shorting but would still allow tractor to start but knock out fuse 6 and all thats on it ?

mad-for-tar

From the books I have on it, Fuse 6 feeds the following:
4WD Switch
PTO Switch
Diff Lock Switch
Instrument Cluster
Hi/Lo switch on gear lever
Gearbox Neutral Switch
Transmission Low Pressure switch.

What you could possibly do is if you can access most of these components is to use a multimeter in the output side of Fuse 6 to ground, you will probably find you have a short circuit. You can then disconnect these components one by one until you come across the one that removes the short to ground on it or the low resistance. That then is the circuit you need to hone in on and fault find more.

If you have no multimeter, you could try disconnecting each of these in turn before putting a new fuse in and switching key on and wherever you find the fuse doesnt blow, that's the potential circuit it could be.

Hope it helps.

amacca

mad-for-tar wrote: »

From the books I have on it, Fuse 6 feeds the following:
4WD Switch
PTO Switch
Diff Lock Switch
Instrument Cluster
Hi/Lo switch on gear lever
Gearbox Neutral Switch
Transmission Low Pressure switch.

What you could possibly do is if you can access most of these components is to use a multimeter in the output side of Fuse 6 to ground, you will probably find you have a short circuit. You can then disconnect these components one by one until you come across the one that removes the short to ground on it or the low resistance. That then is the circuit you need to hone in on and fault find more.

If you have no multimeter, you could try disconnecting each of these in turn before putting a new fuse in and switching key on and wherever you find the fuse doesnt blow, that's the potential circuit it could be.

Hope it helps.

Thank you, every bit of info helps

I've sort of done something similar, I've pulled all the relays one by one then switched ignition to the point where fuse usually blows ...its continued to blow after every single relay was removed.

I'll try the new switches you mentioned I wasnt aware of tomorrow with fuses (might solder a test light out of a 12v bulb )

Probably unrelated but I've noticed a small leak of hydraulic fluid at the back end whenever diff lock rocker switch is engaged or in the auto position ( auto position will engage diff lock based on where lift arms are) .... could be just a coincidence that fluid leak in a system that fuse 6 is on

Anyway thank you, gives me a couple of mote things to check .... I won't be a complete moron if I have to get someone to take a look at it.

kk.man

amacca wrote: »

Don't suppose anyone could help with this

I have an mf5455 (non slopey nose if that makes a difference) and fuse 6 keeps blowing when the key in the ignition is turned to the position just before engine is cranked/turned over

Thing is when you turn the key fully the tractor will still start fine so I'm assuming ther3s no fault in starter motor or fuel pump.

Fuse 6 is also for instrument panel, pto and the manual has (transmission) in brackets on that fuse too. I've sent a signal from blown fuse through instrument panel and traced it as far as the solenoids and I can't find any evidence of a short/wire earthing between fuse and solenoids etc

Anyone have any ideas, id like to get my high/low, 4wd and pro back working as all I have now is a 2wd tractor with a lift!

Is there a cold start advance on those that could be shorting but would still allow tractor to start but knock out fuse 6 and all thats on it ?

I can't help you but how do u find the 5455 ...thinking of up grading from my 390t ..?

amacca

kk.man wrote: »

I can't help you but how do u find the 5455 ...thinking of up grading from my 390t ..?

I found it good when it worked and good as a loader tractor

Cons as i see it

a little bit bouncy and unstable at times and feels a bit under powered and occasionally it decides not to go into gear at all on start up (which is annoying) and regularly drops out of gear when in use and using shuttle (it's fine if you clutch and then reengage gears but I find that particularly irritatin


I've had a lot of issues with mine and I reckon I got a bit of a lemon as I bought it second hand and it must've been sitting for a while

Turbo replaced under warranty, spline to 4wd worn out (nipples on front axel where shaft goes need grease regularly)/expensive, exhaust box/muffler had to be replaced as pipe out rotted through at bend (could have got a fabricator to make the section but pain in the hole too) expensive enough as the muffler is 600/700 odd for just the part.

Overall not happy here but I'd be no fan of electrics and machines increasingly becoming black boxes you need specialist help with ....ive had such a summer I'd be in favour of the six inch nail solution... I've a 135 here that's been going for 40 years, the cab has all but rotted iff it, it looks like **** and all it's ever had is its annual service and filters + a new starter decades ago and it put out the fertiliser the 5455 couldn't the other day as I couldn't engage the pto on it.... admittedly with an older smaller spreader in lots but that's a proper machine.....you get an idea what I value from that I suppose

Thinking of going back to a 90s era tractor, I could handle the lack of a shuttle despite doing a good bit of loader work as long as it works and doesn't let me down - is your 390 still working away and not giving bother? I'd be inclined to hold on to her ...

kk.man

amacca wrote: »

I found it good when it worked and good as a loader tractor

Cons as i see it

a little bit bouncy and unstable at times and feels a bit under powered and occasionally it decides not to go into gear at all on start up (which is annoying) and regularly drops out of gear when in use and using shuttle (it's fine if you clutch and then reengage gears but I find that particularly irritatin


I've had a lot of issues with mine and I reckon I got a bit of a lemon as I bought it second hand and it must've been sitting for a while

Turbo replaced under warranty, spline to 4wd worn out (nipples on front axel where shaft goes need grease regularly)/expensive, exhaust box/muffler had to be replaced as pipe out rotted through at bend (could have got a fabricator to make the section but pain in the hole too) expensive enough as the muffler is 600/700 odd for just the part.

Overall not happy here but I'd be no fan of electrics and machines increasingly becoming black boxes you need specialist help with ....ive had such a summer I'd be in favour of the six inch nail solution... I've a 135 here that's been going for 40 years, all it's ever had is a service and it put out the fertiliser the 5455 couldn't the other day as I couldn't engage the pto.... admittedly with an older smaller spreader in lots

Thinking of going back to a 90s era tractor, I could handle the lack of a shuttle despite doing a good bit of loader work as long as it works and doesn't let me down - is your 390 still working away and not giving bother? I'd be inclined to hold on to her ...

Oh she is grand mines a shuttle but giving the odd problem giving her age she is clean but I feel the need to upgrade however giving the price of cattle i woundering bout the economics of it. I agree with u 're 135 some tractor great memories I leant to drive on one.

Thanks for replying.

amacca

update on this...tracked it down to the circuit for the PTO anyway

it only blows fuse 6 when the pro switch is in the "PTO Brake" position, position to the left or furthest anticlockwise....everything else except the PTO back on line if you leave the PTO switch in neutral position or engaged

interestingly leaving it in engaged position doesn't seem to turn on pro properly or bring on pto light on dash ...pto is spinning away but I don't think its turned on properly

presume it will still be a balls to find actual short

mad-for-tar

Sounds like PTO brake solenoid is faulty and causing short circuit. Not sure which hydraulic setup you have. Behind right hand wheel control valve side of transmission. If it has 5 solenoids pointing forward it will be second one down.

Usually the control valve block has abbreviations cast into it beside test ports / valves etc so you can figure out which is which.

PTO normally won’t start unless engine is running and controller is seeing engine speed signal. Can check this by leaving in middle position the switch, start engine then engage it, it should work then.
If it can be turned by hand still when switch is in the brake position, the PTO brake solenoid is not working.
If you can locate the PTO brake solenoid, disconnect it and everything should work as normal if that is the fault, with the exception of the PTO still being able to rotate freely when it’s off or in brake position the switch. New solenoid then should cure it.

Hope it helps.

amacca

Genuine Thanks, that helped make progress. I disconnected second solenoid down and it made no difference so I tried the one above it (on the top of the bank of five) and the fuse doesn't blow when that one is disconnected and pto switched from neutral to brake position which seems a little strange

The cylindrical housing tube of the top solenoid from what I can feel on the outside is fairly badly corroded...bubbling with rust on the outside much more noticeable than the others I presume that has something to do with it....awkward to get a good look at tbh

It means I can't engage pto but at least I know more

I wonder if someone wired the solenoids up wrong or plugged them in wrong and brake solenoid wired up to pto on or something .... doesnt look that way from the loom going down.. ..everything looks in correct position

mad-for-tar

amacca wrote: »

Genuine Thanks, that helped make progress. I disconnected second solenoid down and it made no difference so I tried the one above it (on the top of the bank of five) and the fuse doesn't blow when that one is disconnected and pto switched from neutral to brake position which seems a little strange

The cylindrical housing tube of the top solenoid from what I can feel on the outside is fairly badly corroded...bubbling with rust on the outside much more noticeable than the others I presume that has something to do with it....awkward to get a good look at tbh

It means I can't engage pto but at least I know more

I wonder if someone wired the solenoids up wrong or plugged them in wrong and brake solenoid wired up to pto on or something .... doesnt look that way from the loom going down.. ..everything looks in correct position

My bad, PTO brake solenoid is in fact the top one, the second one down is the PTO engagement solenoid. Was looking at it in a hurry earlier on. Looks like you have found it anyway. Had a parts catalogue for a 5460 which showed it as being the top one, went back through the manual I have and it is indeed the top one for the brake solenoid.
To get them out, need a 4 or 5mm allen key, undo the socket head bolt, pull away the C shaped holder and then use a screwdriver or similar to pry the solenoid out of the control valve.
Pic below/attached is the parts breakdown (click on link to open), solenoid shows as 3907181M91, its possible it could also be 3794718M91. Don't know here in the country youre based but have found the lads in Whelans garage in Loughrea very helpful and competetive on price for stuff like this.

You should be able to run the PTO with this top one disconnected as the brake will be off anyway.

hopefully gets you out of a hole this anyway.

5460.JPG

amacca

Much appreciated, massive help thank you.

About as helpful a couple of posts as Ive ever read on here

Im going to give replacing the solenoid a shot.

Thanks again.

anthony500_1

mad-for-tar


This man deserves a pint bought for him in every pub he ever sets foot in.

Very helpful few post by him

lab man

have a 5465 here they are a complete heap of scrap stay af far away as u can from a 54 series

9935452

lab man wrote: »

have a 5465 here they are a complete heap of scrap stay af far away as u can from a 54 series

What happened to yours ?
The father had a 5460 with head gasket issues that the garage couldnt get sorted despite doing major work to the engine 3 times

lab man

9935452 wrote:

What happened to yours ? The father had a 5460 with head gasket issues that the garage couldnt get sorted despite doing major work to the engine 3 times

gearbox had to be fully rebuilt and the damperplate done 3 times in 10 months, she wont lift 2 bales in the back either unless they hay bales , no power drinks diesel

sinewc

Will you please let us know how you get on. Have the same tractor at home and always helps to know these things.

_blaaz

lab man wrote: »

gearbox had to be fully rebuilt and the damperplate done 3 times in 10 months, she wont lift 2 bales in the back either unless they hay bales , no power drinks diesel

Is it ok for hydraulic pressure/flow?


Is it dyna gearbox,they are rubbish....but they would have a highgly regarded damper plate.....hardly something stupid like a warped/badly balanced flywheel??

What did say was wrong with box??

lab man

_blaaz wrote:

Is it dyna gearbox,they are rubbish....but they would have a highgly regarded damper plate.....hardly something stupid like a warped/badly balanced flywheel??

blazz. it's just the standard box high and low buttons I bought this type thinming it would be good to last shes very prone to getting stuck in gear since I bought her everything has been done on her at some stage except the engine .I'll never buy a Massey again I always had nh now have bought a case mxm 120 another good tractor

_blaaz

lab man wrote: »

blazz. it's just the standard box high and low buttons I bought this type thinming it would be good to last shes very prone to getting stuck in gear since I bought her everything has been done on her at some stage except the engine .I'll never buy a Massey again I always had nh now have bought a case mxm 120 another good tractor

I know them,well enough to know they are only a **** of a yoke.....suspect maybe minor wear in a backend bearing or a syncro not set up right


Horrible yoke to even drive tbh,....mxm are an impressive tractor,lad done baling here did it with an mxm140 and it handled it with ease