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Slatted shed Design

  • 26-07-2019 7:30am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46


    Not sure if this is possible, I currently have tams approved for 3 bay single tank and shed.
    At the moment I have the tank in and waiting on slats
    My query is: is it possible to change the roof design, basically want to lower the height of the roof and maybe close off the roof but still have a drive passage and still claim grant for this?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 283 ✭✭Westernrock


    Not sure if this is possible, I currently have tams approved for 3 bay single tank and shed.
    At the moment I have the tank in and waiting on slats
    My query is: is it possible to change the roof design, basically want to lower the height of the roof and maybe close off the roof but still have a drive passage and still claim grant for this?

    I am not familiar with tams for sheds but why would you want to lower the roof and possibly close it off? This will have a massive reduction in ventilation, and most shed designs are under ventilated as it is, the vented sheeting on the sides of most sheds lets in minimal air flow and is usually covered in cobwebs within a year or two! Sorry not a rant at you, just a pet hate of mine so wanted to know why you want to reduce the ventilation in you shed and be sure you want to do it before you do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 969 ✭✭✭Count Mondego


    I'd imagine a change like that would affect your planning permission, even though you're reducing the height. If you got an inspection you could be in trouble with the grant, as the height might not be complying with regulation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 162 ✭✭shrek008


    Even the slightest external design change will require a new planning application.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 604 ✭✭✭TooOldBoots


    Can't see the planning as an issue tbh. The problem is you might go out of specification with the shed. If you are out of spec then no Tams for you buddy :p
    From memory things like the eaves height, roof slope, ventilation would have specs which would be effected by changing roof height, spans etc
    have a look through these :-
    Farm building specifications


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 MasFer


    I wouldn't go changing. You could be choosen for inspection. Now you had a shed that doesn't match your grant application. From my own experience in dealing with TAMS and dept it's not an easy one. This would be difficult one to reason


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1 Walsh2997


    Just wondering how long a 3 bay tank should be with 2 agitation points? Inner wall to inner wall


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,710 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Walsh2997 wrote: »
    Just wondering how long a 3 bay tank should be with 2 agitation points? Inner wall to inner wall

    57’ I would think. Thats if it’s an agitation point on each end of the shed. One is enough for a 3 bay shed though.
    You allow 5’ for each agitation point plus 3 bays of 15’9.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,733 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Cavanjack wrote: »
    57’ I would think. Thats if it’s an agitation point on each end of the shed. One is enough for a 3 bay shed though.
    You allow 5’ for each agitation point plus 3 bays of 15’9.

    That would be about it. 4.8metres/bay and 1.2-1.5m per agitation point. Generally one agitation point is all that's needed in a three bay as jack posts

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,552 ✭✭✭J.O. Farmer


    That would be about it. 4.8metres/bay and 1.2-1.5m per agitation point. Generally one agitation point is all that's needed in a three bay as jack posts

    The second agitation point can be useful for adding water at the far end. Maybe not so important if the tank is deep enough.

    If there's space the cost is relatively small so better looking at it than for it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,563 ✭✭✭mayota


    The second agitation point can be useful for adding water at the far end. Maybe not so important if the tank is deep enough.

    If there's space the cost is relatively small so better looking at it than for it.

    Well worth it with the energy saved mixing and the extra storage.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,733 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    mayota wrote: »
    Well worth it with the energy saved mixing and the extra storage.

    If I was looking for extra storage I go 9' instead of 8' deep if I stll need extra storage I go the extra agitation point. An extar 300 mm dept gives you about 14% more capacity an extra agitation 5-6%. Concrete use would be similar just extra steel and digging.

    Slava Ukrainii



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