new holland

mjnol

hi all
I bought a new Holland 5060,4wd lovely tractor, all bells and whistles
recently started making grating noise on taking off,
was told its a damper in drive system,
now also difficult to get gears when stationery,
anyone have any ideas whats goin on and how serious

oneten

It could be the bell grinding off the whistle, its a well known issue with with the 5060

mjnol

Jez thanks,
I think I'd be better off without bells,
now slight jerk forward when direction selected on shuttle lever ,even reverse !!!

_blaaz

mjnol wrote: »

hi all
I bought a new Holland 5060,4wd lovely tractor, all bells and whistles
recently started making grating noise on taking off,
was told its a damper in drive system,
now also difficult to get gears when stationery,
anyone have any ideas whats goin on and how serious

Your damper would rattle,not grate

Sounds like a pack after going wrong.....check oil pressure/selector valves or try calubrating it

But the fact it is hard to get into gears at stationary (assume it in neutral),would suggest that something not releasing properly in the packs

mjnol

Thanks Blaaz,
somebody else told me to calibrate it too ,is it difficult to do or is it a mechanics job,
packs that you mention -are they in gearbox , haven't a clue

_blaaz

mjnol wrote: »

Thanks Blaaz,
somebody else told me to calibrate it too ,is it difficult to do or is it a mechanics job,
packs that you mention -are they in gearbox , haven't a clue

More than likely forward/reverse pack imho....they are at front of gearbox (also powershift packs and pto aswel in there aswel)


You can try calibrating (but you need the procedure)...but that just turns on/off each pack to measure wear and calibrate it computer wise(take jumpyness outta it).....but if its hard to get into get into gear i suspect may be waste of time....but your mechanic can tell better by seeing in person

mad-for-tar

Suspect you have the 24x24 powershuttle yes? LH electric shuttle lever under the steering wheel and 2 buttons on your gear lever?

4 clutch packs inside the box on these, solenoids are all on LHS of transmission behind the fuel tank. Was an issue with some of the older generations back in 2008 or so when they changed supplier of the control valves from Parker to Tecnord and caused all sorts of headaches aswell as having to use different software if you replaced one type of valve for the other etc.

But, shouldn't be the case here. You can calibrate the transmission yourself using the shortcut menu, there is also a calibration for the clutch pedal, but needs a diagnostic too to access the relevant diagnostic menu on the dash in order to do it.
Usually doing a calibration, if something doesn't go right, it can show it up quickly and point you in the general direction of possible fault.
So, if it is the 24x24 box you have, here's how to do it. First make sure the transmission is good and hot and drive it around a few times to make sure oil has been through everything before you do this.

>Engine off, ensure handbrake up and all ancillaries turned off also.
>Press in both buttons on gear lever, press down clutch and start engine.
>You should see PA H1 on the central top display on the dash.
>Let go of the buttons on the gear lever BUT hold down clutch pedal.
>Select 1st gear, High range, shuttle lever into Forward and put RPM up to between 1200 and 1400, then release clutch pedal. (tractor will not drive so dont worry).
>In the central bottom display, you will have letter A for A clutch. Press and hold the Lo button on gear lever, display will start counting up some numbers and then when it is finished calibrating that clutch, the value should flash or blink on the display. (Would suggest making a note of the values to come back to us with them if any issues).
>Press the Hi switch on gear lever once, to go to the B clutch, then press and hold the Lo button to calibrate it same as above.
>Do this for C and D clutches also.
>Once finished, turn off key and engine for at least 5 seconds to store the calibration values.

If there's any problems during the calibration, you will be presented with a U code on the lower central display.

With the sounds you're describing, its hard to tell where the issue might be but I do suspect that if there is an issue with one or more of the packs, it will show up on the calibration sequence.

Let us know how you get on.

mjnol

Thanks for all the info
done the calibration, no change,
there was a bit of banging noise and a slight of jerking back and forward while it was running ..is that normal??

when I started engine for calibration RJ H1 came up on top display..

after I released clutch bottom display had 54C and U22,

then the calibration values were

A 230
B 238
C 112
D 126

I think gear selection is slightly easier if shuttle lever is in neutral now.

do these codes mean anything significant...

cheers

_blaaz

mjnol wrote: »

Thanks for all the info
done the calibration, no change,
there was a bit of banging noise and a slight of jerking back and forward while it was running ..is that normal??

when I started engine for calibration RJ H1 came up on top display..

after I released clutch bottom display had 54C and U22,

then the calibration values were

A 230
B 238
C 112
D 126

I think gear selection is slightly easier if shuttle lever is in neutral now.

do these codes mean anything significant...

cheers

These values are mark of wear/time within the packs A and B are fprward/reverse and C/D are high low powershift....they seem reasonably close to each other to.me anyway


The jerking back are forward during calibration is normal enough and easy to select in neutral would suggest all is ok


I cant remember what codes are for...youll have to google (could be temp/engine speed etc)