390 haybob for 10ft row?

marzic

My brother gets his silage baled, and last year had a lot of wet bales. He is thinking of looking to get a secondhand machine that would spread a 10ft row - the question is would a 390 haybob type of machine handle a crop that might be heavy?
thanks

selectamatic

It'd handle it alright with a steady operator but imo he'd be better off with a nice clean 4 rotor tedder and get the contractor to rake it.

TL17

selectamatic wrote:

It'd handle it alright with a steady operator but imo he'd be better off with a nice clean 4 rotor tedder and get the contractor to rake it.

Would you recommend any type in particular

selectamatic

TL17 wrote: »

Would you recommend any type in particular

I couldn't tbh I've never even see one working here in my locality so all I'd be offering you would be hearsay.

They're becoming extremely popular on bigger farms as the importance of a good wilt is becoming more recognised.

Someone with some ownership experience would be better placed to inform ya.

orm0nd

Lely lotus.

600 model would just about take 2. 10ft swarths or if doing small acreage a 300 for 1 swarth.

Check DoneDeal, there's a guy in Limerick that often has clean imports at reasonable money.

davidk1394

Haybob is a disaster to bale after and leaves knots and clumps. Wouldn’t be easier to get in a contractorto shake it out ? In and out in an hour

funkey_monkey

Would he consider a swather?

marzic

davidk1394 wrote: »

Haybob is a disaster to bale after and leaves knots and clumps. Wouldn’t be easier to get in a contractorto shake it out ? In and out in an hour

I expect it's a matter of keeping the cost down, and being able to do it to suit himself, he works full time off farm, he may possibly get a mower in next few yrs. Usually he don't need anything only a day and half dry and bale up, but last year at the time he was cutting early and later were wet.

marzic

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Would he consider a swather?

Are they an effective machine? Never see any of them really round Clare

jntsnk

I’d go for a mower. I cut my own, as it’s the biggest expense and I can cut it down the correct time in the day , teddering it is cheap 5/6 euro an acre. He can use the mower for topping as well then.

funkey_monkey

marzic wrote: »

Are they an effective machine? Never see any of them really round Clare

I've used one. The one I used was a Conor (https://www.conoreng.com/products/swathers/). Simple and solid piece of kit - just make sure you turn off the chain lube after completion or it will drip continuously until empty.

For wet grass you can open out the rear doors out fully and it would have spread the windrow through the field. They you could come along after drying and close the doors to a suitable windrow width for the baler.

The Conor had a means to offset it so that the grass could be moved from the damp ground underneath to dry ground alongside which would be helpful for drying wet grass.

patsy_mccabe

What is so different about the Lely Lotus that makes it so good? Is it the hooked tines?
I used the PZ hayob this year on silage and agree it creates a lot of lumps and balls when the crop is heavy.

marzic

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I've used one. The one I used was a Conor (https://www.conoreng.com/products/swathers/). Simple and solid piece of kit - just make sure you turn off the chain lube after completion or it will drip continuously until empty.

For wet grass you can open out the rear doors out fully and it would have spread the windrow through the field. They you could come along after drying and close the doors to a suitable windrow width for the baler.

The Conor had a means to offset it so that the grass could be moved from the damp ground underneath to dry ground alongside which would be helpful for drying wet grass.

Thanks for your reply, can you move along a reasonable pace with it, crop depending? What about at the corners, does it throw the row out on the turn if you know what I mean, or do you lift off or slow up.

funkey_monkey

marzic wrote: »

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I've used one. The one I used was a Conor (https://www.conoreng.com/products/swathers/). Simple and solid piece of kit - just make sure you turn off the chain lube after completion or it will drip continuously until empty.

For wet grass you can open out the rear doors out fully and it would have spread the windrow through the field. They you could come along after drying and close the doors to a suitable windrow width for the baler.

The Conor had a means to offset it so that the grass could be moved from the damp ground underneath to dry ground alongside which would be helpful for drying wet grass.

Thanks for your reply, can you move along a reasonable pace with it, crop depending? What about at the corners, does it throw the row out on the turn if you know what I mean, or do you lift off or slow up.

Rather than describe it. Here is a fella using it:
https://youtu.be/hnQE_GCtDL0

Never had the problems on corners that we would have had using the old tedder.
TBH, if you are thinking of one, get one on trial or a contractor to do it so you can see if it suits you.
If you are going to be tedding or otherwise make sure when you remake the windrow that they are even or you might end up with uneven shaped bales.

I've not tried combining two swards into one with it though. Which would be handy, if possible.

kk.man

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Rather than describe it. Here is a fella using it:
https://youtu.be/hnQE_GCtDL0

Never had the problems on corners that we would have had using the old tedder.
TBH, if you are thinking of one, get one on trial or a contractor to do it so you can see if it suits you.
If you are going to be tedding or otherwise make sure when you remake the windrow that they are even or you might end up with uneven shaped bales.

I've not tried combining two swards into one with it though. Which would be handy, if possible.

I am impressed...What is it like for hay?

Does it reduce length of time to make hay?

hopeso

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

What is so different about the Lely Lotus that makes it so good? Is it the hooked tines?
I used the PZ hayob this year on silage and agree it creates a lot of lumps and balls when the crop is heavy.

Yes, the cranked tines are supposed to be the advantage. Malone are using them on their tedders too....

funkey_monkey

kk.man wrote: »

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Rather than describe it. Here is a fella using it:
https://youtu.be/hnQE_GCtDL0

Never had the problems on corners that we would have had using the old tedder.
TBH, if you are thinking of one, get one on trial or a contractor to do it so you can see if it suits you.
If you are going to be tedding or otherwise make sure when you remake the windrow that they are even or you might end up with uneven shaped bales.

I've not tried combining two swards into one with it though. Which would be handy, if possible.

I am impressed...What is it like for hay?

Does it reduce length of time to make hay?

It is good for Hay too. You can open the doors fully and spread it out for drying if you want. Then close in the doors and prepare for the baler.

Yes, reduces the time, should be equivalent to a tedder and flash. Would not be quicker if that is what you're asking.
If you are doing hay offsetting to get the windrow onto the dry ground would be more important than when wilting for silage. However, I have baled good hay without doing this.

Limestone Cowboy

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

What is so different about the Lely Lotus that makes it so good? Is it the hooked tines?
I used the PZ hayob this year on silage and agree it creates a lot of lumps and balls when the crop is heavy.

The hooked tines make a big difference. Really breaks out all the knots in the rows.

patsy_mccabe

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

The hooked tines make a big difference. Really breaks out all the knots in the rows.

Can you get hooked tines for the haybob?

Limestone Cowboy

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Can you get hooked tines for the haybob?

I don't know to be honest.

Dunedin

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

What is so different about the Lely Lotus that makes it so good? Is it the hooked tines?
I used the PZ hayob this year on silage and agree it creates a lot of lumps and balls when the crop is heavy.

I have both and it’s day and night between the two. Hay bob just fires it straight back in heap again whereas the lely fires it up in the air in a wide even spread (therapeutic just to see it working)

The haybob is a little better at cleaning it off the ground at the first turning and tidier at rowing hay but that said I leave the haybob in the shed and never use it now.

Dunedin

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

What is so different about the Lely Lotus that makes it so good? Is it the hooked tines?
I used the PZ hayob this year on silage and agree it creates a lot of lumps and balls when the crop is heavy.

Plus the lely doesn’t break teeth .......

anthony500_1

Dunedin wrote:

I have both and it’s day and night between the two. Hay bob just fires it straight back in heap again whereas the lely fires it up in the air in a wide even spread (therapeutic just to see it working)

Is that the Lely lotus 300 Combi you have??? They look a great all around machine. Are they that much ahead of the haybob???

older by the day

A lot of the new mowers contractors use have spreader vanes. Get them to rake it after and bale. I saw the mower with vanes and was well impressed

orm0nd

Dunedin wrote: »

I have both and it’s day and night between the two. Hay bob just fires it straight back in heap again whereas the lely fires it up in the air in a wide even spread (therapeutic just to see it working)

The haybob is a little better at cleaning it off the ground at the first turning and tidier at rowing hay but that said I leave the haybob in the shed and never use it now.

I think the rotor angle is a bit different on the lotus, playing around with top link length and the adjustment height on the wheels might help clean the ground a bit better.

Also driving opposite direction to which the mower did.

Dunedin

anthony500_1 wrote: »

Is that the Lely lotus 300 Combi you have??? They look a great all around machine. Are they that much ahead of the haybob???

Yes it’s the lely 300 that’s turns and has gates to row (assume it’s a combi but it’s not actually written on it).

Bought it new about 4 years ago. Love it.and see it miles ahead of the haybob (which I still have but don’t use it anymore) should probably flog it but I’d get feck all for it and it’s there as backup in case of emergency.

hopeso

Dunedin wrote: »

Yes it’s the lely 300 that’s turns and has gates to row (assume it’s a combi but it’s not actually written on it).

Bought it new about 4 years ago. Love it.and see it miles ahead of the haybob (which I still have but don’t use it anymore) should probably flog it but I’d get feck all for it and it’s there as backup in case of emergency.

Does anyone know the rough price of a new Lely Lotus 300 today? Also, do they shake out the grass just as well as the wider versions?

Dunedin

hopeso wrote: »

Does anyone know the rough price of a new Lely Lotus 300 today? Also, do they shake out the grass just as well as the wider versions?

I think they’re about €4300 or €4400. I paid€3800 4 years ago.

I’ve no experience of the wider ones nd can only speak for the 300 and they are savage for shaking out and couldn’t see how the wider one could be any better.

Reggie.

Dunedin wrote: »

I think they’re about €4300 or €4400. I paid€3800 4 years ago.

I’ve no experience of the wider ones nd can only speak for the 300 and they are savage for shaking out and couldn’t see how the wider one could be any better.

The lotus must be getting rare now as they aren't built anymore

hopeso

Reggie. wrote: »

The lotus must be getting rare now as they aren't built anymore

Have they replaced them with a newer version?

Reggie.

hopeso wrote: »

Have they replaced them with a newer version?

Lely dont produce grass machinery anymore