New oak kitchen worktop - how many coats of oil??

NetChat101

Just put in a new oak kitchen worktop. The supplier and the fitter both stressed to use only boiled linseed oil when oiling it. It has been oiled and buffed 5 times now and, even though it's getting there, it's not as shiny as I'd like and it accidentally got splashed with water, which left a mark, so it's nowhere near ready for general kitchen use. I've researched this and varnish etc is a no-no for kitchen countertops. Does anyone know how many times you have to oil it to get a really good shiny, durable finish. Thanks!

Always Tired

NetChat101 wrote: »

Just put in a new oak kitchen worktop. The supplier and the fitter both stressed to use only boiled linseed oil when oiling it. It has been oiled and buffed 5 times now and, even though it's getting there, it's not as shiny as I'd like and it accidentally got splashed with water, which left a mark, so it's nowhere near ready for general kitchen use. I've researched this and varnish etc is a no-no for kitchen countertops. Does anyone know how many times you have to oil it to get a really good shiny, durable finish. Thanks!

By buff do you mean sanding? I've read 12 coats. Also you need to ensure each layer dries completely (it will feel dry in a few hours but can take 24-48 to fully harden) also make sure you only use very fine sandpaper and do by hand, no machines or you'll be taking the oil off. Try letting a coat fully harden for 24 hours, then put another on, then a light sand, then another coat. And then do that again. My guess is you're not giving the oil a chance to harden fully and/or are taking it back off when you sand.

NetChat101

Always Tired wrote: »

By buff do you mean sanding? I've read 12 coats. Also you need to ensure each layer dries completely (it will feel dry in a few hours but can take 24-48 to fully harden) also make sure you only use very fine sandpaper and do by hand, no machines or you'll be taking the oil off. Try letting a coat fully harden for 24 hours, then put another on, then a light sand, then another coat. And then do that again. My guess is you're not giving the oil a chance to harden fully and/or are taking it back off when you sand.

Thanks very much, think you've solved my problem, I'd say I'm not leaving enough time between coats - too impatient! I'll keep going with the oil coats and leave at least a day between them. Appreciate the reply, thank you.

m5ex9oqjawdg2i

Check the instructions on the tin to find out how long to wait. Could be up to 48 hours. Depends on circulation and all that. You want to sand in between coats too, using the finest sand paper you can find. 400 grit probably. The smoother the finish you want, the finer the sandpaper.

BLO penetrates deep into the wood so you won't remove it if you use an orbital sander or palm sander. That's completely fine. Just make sure you rub off any access oil after about 10 minutes of applying it. You can apply it quite liberally. When you are finished, in about two weeks time :P, get a lambs wool buffer and shine that baby up.

Most importantly, let your rags dry out before disposing of them. If you throw them in a bundle, and they are still wet, they could spontaneously combust.

Failing all that, you could try an epoxy finish if you really want that shiny finish.

listermint

First,

You wont get a shiney finish on the oak top. You may end up with a slight sheen from newly applied oil. but it will dry in. Shiney it will never be. And no i would not epoxy it or varnish it either. It takes away from the qualities.

Second,

You should be leaving 24-48 hours between coats. When you've fully rubbed in a coat with a cloth leave it to dry. You will have to do this 10+ times until all the oil is soaked into the surface. Then you stop.

Frankly speaking, you will never stop oiling it, you should top it up once a year or more just a quick rub down with a cloth and oil - its really not difficult.


As for linseed oil, no you can use any food safe oil. some oils will yellow the surface a bit (if you are into that) linseed tends to do that. Others dont.

You can use this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHOPPING-BOARD-OIL-BUTCHERS-BLOCK-SEALER-WORK-TOP-OIL-FOOD-SAFE-100-PURE-CLEAR/161074588616?hash=item2580cb2bc8:m:mkZAMwt4yZidyOHbNyxhVzg

I have, any food safe oil is good. And its cheaper on Ebay. I picked up a 5 litre of the stuff for future use. Buying smaller bottles in Ireland is ridiculously expensive.

CJhaughey

The old saying, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year.

Car99

Your head will be melted from looking after it.

CJhaughey

Keep any cast iron items away from it, they will react and leave black rings DAMHIK.

antiskeptic

I've used a product sold by the Panelling Centre: it's a 2 pack oil type thing by Rubio. Does floors as well. Although they say you can do one coat, I do two. Apply, let soak in for 15 minutes, wipe off, let dry for 8 hours. Repeat in a couple of days. Leaves a waterproof surface which you then maintain every 5 months or so with another Rubio oil product.

There's no varnish like layer, just the look of bare wood. Great stuff it is.

Probably too late for you though, given you've applied oils already. Their maintenance product might be worth looking up, in case you can maintain with that.

Graham

Was that the Rubio Monocoat antiskeptic?

How did you find the finish/colour, how would it compare with Danish oil?

BryanF

https://www.amazon.com/Osmo-3058-OSMO-Top-Oil/dp/B0040AT5X4

Found this stuff good

NetChat101

Thanks for all replies and advice.