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Key for lock nut.

  • 24-04-2019 2:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭


    Where can I get this ?


Comments

  • Boards.ie Employee Posts: 12,597 ✭✭✭✭✭Boards.ie: Niamh
    Boards.ie Community Manager


    Moved to Motors where you should get some help :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,256 ✭✭✭deandean


    Looks like a Peugot / Citroen?
    They are unique to every car.
    Go to a main dealer. Bring your VIN number and proof of ownership of the car. Order it. Wait a week or more for delivery.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,133 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    Some tyres places will remove them, and you can replace it with a standard one. Butlers tyres in Harrolds cross advertise this service.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,738 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Phoenix tyres in Drumcondra can remove them also, 15 euro a corner they charged me the last time I'd to get BMW ones removed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    You can usually pick up the keys/sets on ebay. I know when I lost my genuine BMW key I was able to find it very easily on ebay, there were only so many locks/keys. This looks similar, but you might need to research a bit more to be sure:

    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Genuine-Peugeot-Citroen-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Set-Many-Sets-Available/113721074299?hash=item1a7a4de27b:g:HMAAAOSwbehbw78N


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    Thanks everyone for the help....was with my BMW when purchased....lock nuts collar broke when tightening it....asked mechanics/body repair garage would they weld a 17 nut onto broken nut could then take it off, all refused ��...the key looks worn that's why am looking for a new one and maybe with an impact drill might move it...have tried drilling with a cobalt bit hoping to hammer a "screw remover" bit into it but no luck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    It's not an original BMW key.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,418 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    I had the same problem with my CC, took it to VW, took off the lock nut and swapped it for regular ones. Way better off.
    If someone wants your alloys they'll take them, lock nut or not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    True...saves any s-it down the line. ��


  • Registered Users, Subscribers, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,630 ✭✭✭✭antodeco


    I had this issue before. I ended up hammering on a .5 larger nut and removed it that way. Ended up replacing all 4 corners with "normal nuts". Last thing I want is a flat tyre that I cant remove.

    Also, I have heard that locknuts can cause balancing issues as they are a slightly different weight to the rest of the nuts?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    Phoenix tyres in Drumcondra can remove them also, 15 euro a corner they charged me the last time I'd to get BMW ones removed.

    Jesus wept. Just for 30 seconds work?

    OP go to your main dealer and ask them for a lend of the socket.
    Bring your own wrench and take them off yourself. Don't let them do any work they can bill you for.
    Then replace them with four normal bolts.

    No one steals alloys, they just take the entire car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,738 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Jesus wept. Just for 30 seconds work?

    OP go to your main dealer and ask them for a lend of the socket.
    Bring your own wrench and take them off yourself. Don't let them do any work they can bill you for.
    Then replace them with four normal bolts.

    No one steals alloys, they just take the entire car.

    There's no universal socket for BMW locking nuts. There's universal sets you can buy that might fit, but a mate who's a mechanic went through a full 30 piece of BMW keys and none would fit tight enough without destroying the splines.

    Rang Joe Duffy who said the only option was to give them the chassis number and they could order in a key, but wouldn't have one there.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    There's no universal socket for BMW locking nuts. There's universal sets you can buy that might fit, but a mate who's a mechanic went through a full 30 piece of BMW keys and none would fit tight enough without destroying the splines.

    Rang Joe Duffy who said the only option was to give them the chassis number and they could order in a key, but wouldn't have one there.

    I know there's not a universal one, but the dealer has sets for every lock nut.
    Usually about 30 in a set and they change them up every few years.
    I lost my one and got a lend from the dealer for 2 mins, no charge if I loosened them myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    I know there's not a universal one, but the dealer has sets for every lock nut.
    Usually about 30 in a set and they change them up every few years.
    I lost my one and got a lend from the dealer for 2 mins, no charge if I loosened them myself.

    Yep, my lock nuts are from a 2008 gen 5 series and there is a small set of keys you need. All I had to do was count the splines and go on ebay. A week later I had my key, and my wheel lock nuts removed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭Slanty


    That is not bmw. I have taken off 100 ‘s of wheel studs before and for that type If you look at the 4 drives that open the wheel stud they are worn and keep slipping.
    I drill the old ones out and tap in new 4mm hardened pieces.

    Just means they can open all the other studs and have the original key.
    Costs them around 25€


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Any time I change my car....1st job is to replace these "anti-theft" lock nuts/bolts, if they are fitted. Some of them are OK...I had an A6 which had splined bolt's and splined socket in the tool kit., and I never had any problems with them..but they were well designed..the splines in the wheel stud were very deep, and the socket was able to get a good grip, unlike the one in OP's pic...Peugeot, I would say?? Mickey Mouse ones.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,717 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Moved to Motors where you should get some help :)


    Bought a replacment on ebay some years ago, €10-15


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    _Brian wrote: »
    Bought a replacment on ebay some years ago, €10-15

    Bought proper B.M.W. replacements on Ebay,....eventually found someone who welded a lug nut (at the end of its thread) to the broken nut using an arc welder and the appropriate rod, 5 min. job.
    Put copper grease on end of new nuts to stop binding.

    Cheers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,418 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    Problem is you go to get your tyre changed the fitter is lazy uses the air wrench to take off the nut and shears it. Bollox of a thing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Jesus wept. Just for 30 seconds work?

    OP go to your main dealer and ask them for a lend of the socket.
    Bring your own wrench and take them off yourself. Don't let them do any work they can bill you for.
    Then replace them with four normal bolts.

    No one steals alloys, they just take the entire car.

    He'd be better off going to a charity shop.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Trebhygt wrote: »
    Bought proper B.M.W. replacements on Ebay,....eventually found someone who welded a lug nut (at the end of its thread) to the broken nut using an arc welder and the appropriate rod, 5 min. job.
    Put copper grease on end of new nuts to stop binding.

    Cheers.

    Was the battery disconnected while the welding was going on? If not,did it affect the electric's in any way?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,557 ✭✭✭✭lawred2


    jmreire wrote: »
    Any time I change my car....1st job is to replace these "anti-theft" lock nuts/bolts, if they are fitted. Some of them are OK...I had an A6 which had splined bolt's and splined socket in the tool kit., and I never had any problems with them..but they were well designed..the splines in the wheel stud were very deep, and the socket was able to get a good grip, unlike the one in OP's pic...Peugeot, I would say?? Mickey Mouse ones.

    Are Peugeot known for this because the wheel brace that can with our 5008 snapped clean in two even trying to change a tyre on the driveway.

    Luckily was at home as I could use the one from the other car but seriously.. it's like it was made of chocolate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    jmreire wrote: »
    Was the battery disconnected while the welding was going on? If not,did it affect the electric's in any way?

    Ye...made sure of that myself, he said leave car running same thing but I didn't want to chance it
    🙂


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Trebhygt wrote: »
    Ye...made sure of that myself, he said leave car running same thing but I didn't want to chance it
    ��

    You were right, I think to disconnect it....but afterwards, no problem when it was reconnected? Or was it showing any code's?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    jmreire wrote: »
    You were right, I think to disconnect it....but afterwards, no problem when it was reconnected? Or was it showing any code's?

    It shouldn't affect the electrics anyways. The welder is isolated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    It shouldn't affect the electrics anyways. The welder is isolated.

    The way vehicle electrics are going...hard to be careful enough. That was an arc welder he used, would a MIG welder have a different effect?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    jmreire wrote: »
    You were right, I think to disconnect it....but afterwards, no problem when it was reconnected?
    Have the seatbelt light showing again, had it removed three times, once by myself by bypassing the passenger mat sensor, worked for a year...then mechanic reset codes for mat sensor, two weeks later light back on this time for drivers seatbelt tensor...might buy the engine fault finder myself and just reset codes pre n.c.t. 🙂


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Trebhygt wrote: »
    jmreire wrote: »
    You were right, I think to disconnect it....but afterwards, no problem when it was reconnected?
    Have the seatbelt light showing again, had it removed three times, once by myself by bypassing the passenger mat sensor, worked for a year...then mechanic reset codes for mat sensor, two weeks later light back on this time for drivers seatbelt tensor...might buy the engine fault finder myself and just reset codes pre n.c.t. ��

    If you want to do almost anything now yourself, you will need a OBD reader.....it's gone to that stage !!! There are many different make's of reader out there now, and some good multi-car reader's too, but I find that unless you are prepared to go into €6-800 + for a worthwhile one, better just get a one which is specific to your car. I use iCarsoft myself, and find that it's very good. Costs about €140.00, and it will do basic OBD for any make, while digging very deep into what ever make you specify, without allowing you to do very "Deep Surgery" which, unless yo really know what you are doing, can cause expensive damage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    jmreire wrote: »
    Trebhygt wrote: »

    If you want to do almost anything now yourself, you will need a OBD reader.....it's gone to that stage !!! There are many different make's of reader out there now, and some good multi-car reader's too, but I find that unless you are prepared to go into €6-800 + for a worthwhile one, better just get a one which is specific to your car. I use iCarsoft myself, and find that it's very good. Costs about €140.00, and it will do basic OBD for any make, while digging very deep into what ever make you specify, without allowing you to do very "Deep Surgery" which, unless yo really know what you are doing, can cause expensive damage.
    140 would be reasonable and money would be recouped in a few uses. Will go down that line.ðŸ‘


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Trebhygt wrote: »
    jmreire wrote: »
    140 would be reasonable and money would be recouped in a few uses. Will go down that line.ðŸ‘


    The official supplier's are :- www.ukpartsdirect.com and when you buy from them, you are guaranteed free updates. Just make sure that they have the iCarsoft model for your particular car. Very simple to use, plug it in, identify your model on the list, and let it scan the whole system. It can do it automatically, or you can select which part you want to scan. It will show a list of stored faults, and you can clear them. If they are just historic, they will clear, if they are a present active fault, at least they will, be identified, and you can identify what exactly is wrong, and take it from there.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 112 ✭✭Trebhygt


    jmreire wrote: »
    Trebhygt wrote: »


    The official supplier's are :- www.ukpartsdirect.com and when you buy from them, you are guaranteed free updates. Just make sure that they have the iCarsoft model for your particular car. Very simple to use, plug it in, identify your model on the list, and let it scan the whole system. It can do it automatically, or you can select which part you want to scan. It will show a list of stored faults, and you can clear them. If they are just historic, they will clear, if they are a present active fault, at least they will, be identified, and you can identify what exactly is wrong, and take it from there.:)

    Thanks a mill for that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    Trebhygt wrote: »
    jmreire wrote: »
    140 would be reasonable and money would be recouped in a few uses. Will go down that line.ðŸ‘

    If you do and youre interested, it might be worth throwing a service up on Adverts to make the money back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭khaldrogo


    Jesus wept. Just for 30 seconds work?

    How many have you removed exactly???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    khaldrogo wrote: »
    How many have you removed exactly???

    I got my 4 removed in the main dealer.

    Brought my own breaker and socket, borrowed their lock nut kit from the front desk.

    Cost me nothing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭khaldrogo


    What the poster was talking about in regards to 15e per wheel was someone actually removing the lock nut by drilling or chiseling it off which for 15e per wheel is a bargain.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    khaldrogo wrote: »
    What the poster was talking about in regards to 15e per wheel was someone actually removing the lock nut by drilling or chiseling it off which for 15e per wheel is a bargain.

    It's stupid.

    My way was much quicker and free


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    It's stupid.

    My way was much quicker and free

    You were fortunate in that it was possible to do what you did. It isn’t the same for all locknuts though.
    The OP has non original locknuts on their car.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Twenty Grand


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    You were fortunate in that it was possible to do what you did. It isn’t the same for all locknuts though.
    The OP has non original locknuts on their car.

    Yep, got that.

    I was replying to the guy who paid 60 euro to have his BMW ones removed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭khaldrogo


    I was replying to the guy who paid 60 euro to have his BMW ones removed


    Not every main dealer would have given their master set out like they did for you. If someone is stuck with lock nuts on their car then 60e is a bargain to have the removed.
    I have removed lock nuts many times. It is not an easy task mostly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,773 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Trebhygt wrote: »

    If you do and youre interested, it might be worth throwing a service up on Adverts to make the money back.

    Unless you really know what you are doing with OBD reader's, be very carefull. The iCarsoft MB 11 is a pretty "safe" diagnostic scanner, mainly because it allows you to scan, identify and clear faults, but does not allow you too deep into the system, where it is possible to make serious changes. The newer version, iCarsoft MB V2, is a more powerfull scanner, and allow's for more activity in programming. Just be careful how you use them, that's all I'm saying.:):):)


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