Hanging Gates on I Beam

riemann

I've quite a few field gates to hang due to either current post at the end of its life or a new opening.

The plan is to order I beams cut to size.

I'm leaning towards 7x4 inch UB, and 2m long. This leaves about 650mm in the ground if I manage to get down that far, set in concrete (maybe postcrete).

Anyone have any other suggestions or alternatives? 7x4 is possibly overkill, I have some heavy 15ft gates and don't want to see them sagging.

MfMan

Have never used Postcrete. Would it be strong enough to hold an I-beam?

Muckit

riemann wrote: »

I've quite a few field gates to hang due to either current post at the end of its life or a new opening.

The plan is to order I beams cut to size.

Buy the proper galvanised gatepost with threaded hangers. Probably work out cheaper, look better and you have adjustment with hangers.

josephsoap

Muckit wrote: »

Buy the proper galvanised gatepost with threaded hangers. Probably work out cheaper, look better and you have adjustment with hangers.

Hi Muckit, any links to said posts ?

Muckit

josephsoap wrote: »

Hi Muckit, any links to said posts ?

https://www.glanbiaconnect.com/shop/product/Gibney-Galvanised-Hanging-Post-for-Gate-4-5in/9001715

You'll get them in most good hardware stores that sells gates. Gibneys one crowd that makes them. Remember that INCLUDES 2 hangers and holes are predrilled. All galvanised. No messing.

patsy_mccabe

Remember there is a different one for top and bottom. Also a different type for hanging off railway girders.

https://www.coopsuperstores.ie/Farming/Farm-Hardware--Equipment/Gate-Accessories/Gate-Hanger-Rsj-Bottom-Hanger-0506278

blue5000

Go a bit longer with the I beam and drive them with a post driver is another option. You'll need a heavy duty crowbar in the hole first and point the bottom corners of the I beam before you drive it. 3ft in the ground should be enough.

riemann

Muckit wrote: »

Buy the proper galvanised gatepost with threaded hangers. Probably work out cheaper, look better and you have adjustment with hangers.

Thanks for reply, I'm not sure it would work out cheaper. Its more restrictive about what type of gate you can use. In rocky ground I'd end up having to get each one cut to size before i put them in the ground.

I agree while it is a more final finished job, I don't like seeing galvanised sitting in a hedgerow, something very artificial about it. A years weathering on steel and it disappears.

Muckit

riemann wrote: »

Thanks for reply, I'm not sure it would work out cheaper. Its more restrictive about what type of gate you can use. In rocky ground I'd end up having to get each one cut to size before i put them in the ground.

I agree while it is a more final finished job, I don't like seeing galvanised sitting in a hedgerow, something very artificial about it. A years weathering on steel and it disappears.

Its only one option. Everyone has theircown tastes and preferences. Are you going with ungalvanised gates? How are you digging the holes?

Bass Reeves

if you cannot get holes dug deep enough less then you can concrete up around post above ground. use tge ring of plastic off a big drum or small plastic barrel. I always set a steel post in 8-10'' of dry mix first. Then use wet mix with extra cement to fill hole and form above ground. most lads hang gates too near the ground anyway. when hanging gate's always turn gate pole hanger to the side that tge gate will open. this allows gate to open over 90 degrees.

Another advantage of electric fences no f@@king gates into fields except out onto road

Donald Trump

Ah, there's just something sturdier looking about the big feck-off lump of steel girder rusting away but not moving for anything for the next 30 years. :pac:

riemann

Muckit wrote: »

Its only one option. Everyone has theircown tastes and preferences. Are you going with ungalvanised gates? How are you digging the holes?

Its a good option, and probably the most sensible in the long run, I'm just not a fan.

Gates are a mix of home made, old wrought iron, couple bought from travelling salesman many moons ago (that are holding up surprisingly well) and some more modern galvanised ones.

Holes will be dug by hand with a spade and iron bar, until I get fed up and leave the rest for the track machine in the harvest. Always found a digger ends up making a hole far too big that has then to be filled with stone and concrete. Maybe it's driver error (sometimes that was yours truly) so hopefully will avoid this method but can't rule it out.

Suckler

Donald Trump wrote: »

Ah, there's just something sturdier looking about the big feck-off lump of steel girder rusting away but not moving for anything for the next 30 years. :pac:

i thought the same but I put one in like the link Muckit gave and now the others just look shoddy in comparison. Now it's in my head every time I see them I just want to take them down for no reason than the galvanised ones look tidier.

50HX

Buy a length of 3 or 4 inch blue band instead of the galv hanger/reclever posts........they are crazy money

cj maxx

Planning on doing a good bit of fencing in the next wee or two before ground gets too hard .
I want to use H iron for the gates while I have the digger there.
What size of H iron should I get , what lengths and any tips re hanging the gate etc . I take it I’ll be putting it in semi-dry concrete
Cheers

_Brian

Was this exact thread not done last week ?

cj maxx

_Brian wrote: »

Was this exact thread not done last week ?

I’m looking but can’t find it

davidk1394

cjmc wrote: »

Planning on doing a good bit of fencing in the next wee or two before ground gets too hard .
I want to use H iron for the gates while I have the digger there.
What size of H iron should I get , what lengths and any tips re hanging the gate etc . I take it I’ll be putting it in semi-dry concrete
Cheers

Did it in a few places here. Dug a hole 4ft deep, stood the H iron and poured in 2 ft of concrete topped off with some stone and then clay. I used a standard H iron that came off an old hay barn. The part of the H iron going into the ground I welded on off cuts onto the H iron so it increased its surface area in the concrete.

The gate hanging off the H iron is 12ft wide and 5 ft high

Muckit

4 foot hole!! ? What kind of a measuring tape had you!

blue5000

_Brian wrote: »

Was this exact thread not done last week ?

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057974987

But it was H iron:o

Mod note Threads merged

cj maxx

Just marking the page

memorystick

I've 3 foot+ holes dug with mini digger. Horse in plenty of concrete. Too much is better than too little.

cj maxx

50HX wrote: »

Buy a length of 3 or 4 inch blue band instead of the galv hanger/reclever posts........they are crazy money

What’s blue band ?

dohc turbo2

cjmc wrote: »

What’s blue band ?

Blue band is the strength of pipe , it’s only in the smaller pipes where u can get either brown band or blue , blue being heavy wall pipe , in the local place anyway , I’ve hung a few gates off the big road signs when they were upgrading the road they left us a few , mighty job , not the strongest wall but dose fine ,

memorystick

Going hanging gates next week. Stupid question- which is better for mixing concrete- builders sand or crushed 804?

Muckit

memorystick wrote: »

Going hanging gates next week. Stupid question- which is better for mixing concrete- builders sand or crushed 804?

Builders sand l would rhink

Wildsurfer

Gravel obviously but I assume you know that and have only sand and 804 to hand. In that case use a 50/50 mix of the sand and 804

memorystick

But CIE used to use 804 in their railway sleepers. Couldn't be beat.

Bass Reeves

804 is dust with 1/2 chip down. Excellent to make concrete with. If it not dusty add some sand but if it made with limestone as oposed to sandstone it should be dusty enough

patsy_mccabe

I always thought 804 andd '1/2" down' were the same thing.

50HX

memorystick wrote: »

Going hanging gates next week. Stupid question- which is better for mixing concrete- builders sand or crushed 804?

Use 804.....small bits in it help bind it better