Does the kg\h setting make a difference in kerosene boiler nozzles?

barryo2002

Hi guys, quick question regarding a service and nozzle change that I want to attack this weekend.

Basically, the nozzle that's to be replaced is a danfoss, specifically "0.65 x 80 ES 1.95 kg\h" my local plumbing supply store sold me a danfoss rated "0.65 x 80 ES 2.67kg\h", almost identical except for the kg\h capacity which would change from 1.95 to 2.67. The guy working there assured me that it's as near as makes no difference.

My question is, would this difference in capacity be an actual issue and if possible, could anyone explain what those figures mean?

Thanks in advance guys!

agusta

The nozzle the merchant gave you is a 0.65 80 S

agusta

S/h nozzles are calibrated at 10 bar pressure
eh es nozzles are calibrated at 8 bar pressure
1.95 kg/hr is the flow rate in kg per hour if the pump pressure was at 8 bar for the es nozzle
2.67 kg/hr is the flow rate in kg per hour if the pump pressue was at 10 bar for a S nozzle
There is not much between s and es on kerosene.At the same pressure the s nozzle will have a little more output.im inclined to fit was the mi says but i would often change an S nozzle on kerosene with an es nozzle and slightly increase the pressure for the same output.
New nozzles have a + /- 4 percent tolerance so to get the boiler running efficiently, the boiler/burner should be set up to mi using a pressure gauge and flue gas analyser

barryo2002

agusta wrote: »

S/h nozzles are calibrated at 10 bar pressure
eh es nozzles are calibrated at 8 bar pressure
1.95 kg/hr is the flow rate in kg per hour if the pump pressure was at 8 bar for the es nozzle
2.67 kg/hr is the flow rate in kg per hour if the pump pressue was at 10 bar for a S nozzle
There is not much between s and es on kerosene.At the same pressure the s nozzle will have a little more output.im inclined to fit was the mi says but i would often change an S nozzle on kerosene with an es nozzle and slightly increase the pressure for the same output.
New nozzles have a + /- 4 percent tolerance so to get the boiler running efficiently, the boiler/burner should be set up to mi using a pressure gauge and flue gas analyser

Thanks for the detailed reply Agusta, though a lot of that went completely over my head.
I suppose if I want ed to simplify my own initial question in order to get an answer that I'd be capable of understanding with my limited knowledge of boilers, would fitting the new nozzle have any noticeable effect, either positive or negative, and is there a possibility or danger that the boiler would run better or worse if I were to substitute the 1.95 rated for the 2.57,? I suppose that the question is, now that I have it, can it be used safely without having or using a pressure gauge and flue gas analyser ?

agusta

Your really looking a the0.65 usg and not the kg/hr,what make /model boiler?,I cant say whether the boiler will run better or worse.in my opinion without a flue gas analyser it impossible to tell

barryo2002

agusta wrote: »

Your really looking a the0.65 usg and not the kg/hr,what make /model boiler?,I cant say whether the boiler will run better or worse.in my opinion without a flue gas analyser it impossible to tell

That's good to know, thanks again for your help. I will eventually invest in a flue gas analyser but this first time round will.be playing it by ear!
It's a Firebird, 2 years old, not sure the exact model thought the paperwork is inside the unit so I can check it out in the morning.

agusta

barryo2002 wrote: »

That's good to know, thanks again for your help. I will eventually invest in a flue gas analyser but this first time round will.be playing it by ear!
It's a Firebird, 2 years old, not sure the exact model thought the paperwork is inside the unit so I can check it out in the morning.

Firebird enviromax?

DGOBS

That's good to know, thanks again for your help. I will eventually invest in a flue gas analyser but this first time round will.be playing it by ear!
It's a Firebird, 2 years old, not sure the exact model thought the paperwork is inside the unit so I can check it out in the morning.

Nooooo......you NEED an FGA to set up an appliance after changing a nozzle, ever more so on HE appliances, along with a pressure gauge.
Anything else is cowboy country!

agusta

If firebird enviromax ,its not the boiler to be playing it by ear,The condensate trap is absolutely critical on this boiler and the setting up this boiler is also critical. Without a flue gas analyser and pressure gauge, changing to an s nozzle will cause the boiler to soot up

jimf

DGOBS wrote: »

Nooooo......you NEED an FGA to set up an appliance after changing a nozzle, ever more so on HE appliances, along with a pressure gauge.
Anything else is cowboy country!

agree 100%

barryo2002

It could very well be an enviromax, I had no idea that the analyser was so important, I assumed that it was just as it said on the tin, an analyser just for checking that the gases were within a specific range. I can understand the pressure guage's importance though.
The reason I decided to attack it myself is because a buddy down the road has the same boiler and has been changing the nozzle and cleaning it out for years now and never a bother, no pressure gauge or analyser used!

Tom44

Smoke pump is more critical for correct servicing IMHO and a FGA is essential for confirming complete satisfactorily safe combustion (better MPG)
Without either, It's a service (chancer) lottery

Do you know what a smoke pump is?

A unfortunate woman accidentally killed herself with a box of Jaffa cakes this week, boilers are more dangerous than Jaffa cakes.

jimf

barryo2002 wrote: »

It could very well be an enviromax, I had no idea that the analyser was so important, I assumed that it was just as it said on the tin, an analyser just for checking that the gases were within a specific range. I can understand the pressure guage's importance though.
The reason I decided to attack it myself is because a buddy down the road has the same boiler and has been changing the nozzle and cleaning it out for years now and never a bother, no pressure gauge or analyser used!

he may be just lucky


a spotless clean boiler without smoke could be throwing out carbon monoxide at dangerously high levels

agusta

barryo2002 wrote: »

It could very well be an enviromax, I had no idea that the analyser was so important, I assumed that it was just as it said on the tin, an analyser just for checking that the gases were within a specific range. I can understand the pressure guage's importance though.
The reason I decided to attack it myself is because a buddy down the road has the same boiler and has been changing the nozzle and cleaning it out for years now and never a bother, no pressure gauge or analyser used!

My advise would be to read the manual,it will give advise about pressure settings etc.your boiler can be set at many different setting and sized to suit the output required for your house.The manual gives 3 standard settings,The trick is to set the boiler so it in condensing mode for as long as possible.This is where the real savings is cost wise

barryo2002

Thanks for all your replies guys. Looks like boiler maintenance is not something for the amateur handyman and should be left to the professionals and those who have the tools!
Small victory for me regarding the heating though,; earlier this week I did a bit of rewiring and swapped out my EPH controller for WiFi/Alexa thermostat\controller units, one for each zone upstairs and downstairs. Best thing I ever did!
I was quoted about €400 to convert the heating to smart by the guy who installed the original system but the DIY project cost less than €60 and an hour's work. I'd recommend the new control to anyone!
Have a great weekend guys and thanks for all the input.