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Focus front wheel bearings how the **** do you get the hub off?

  • 20-03-2019 8:33pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭


    Was going well this evening working on my wifes old Mk1 Focus until I got to the bit where you slide the hub off the drive shaft.

    Basically its stuck solid. An ideas on how to remove it so I can get on and replace the wheel bearings.

    Big puller - fail
    Heat - fail
    Heat + Big puller - fail

    All I can think is to get a bigger puller.

    All the faces are currently slopping with penetrating oil and I've left the puller attached and under tension, just it cast it works some magic over night.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 788 ✭✭✭babi-hrse


    my3cents wrote: »
    Was going well this evening working on my wifes old Mk1 Focus until I got to the bit where you slide the hub off the drive shaft.

    Basically its stuck solid. An ideas on how to remove it so I can get on and replace the wheel bearings.

    Big puller - fail
    Heat - fail
    Heat + Big puller - fail

    All I can think is to get a bigger puller.

    All the faces are currently slopping with penetrating oil and I've left the puller attached and under tension, just it cast it works some magic over night.

    Wd-40 and maybe a hammer.
    If that doesn't work maybe a localised blowtorch and heat up the lugs. Don't like the sound of the last option so try the other


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    babi-hrse wrote: »
    Wd-40 and maybe a hammer.
    If that doesn't work maybe a localised blowtorch and heat up the lugs. Don't like the sound of the last option so try the other


    Really, blowtorch??? This is the part where you should not use the heat!!!
    It is job for air hammer, sledge hammer and such of tools. The penetration oils typically are useless


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    I've tried sledge hammer and there is nothing there that a blowtorch will damage. The hole point is to replace the bearings so if the heat damages the bearing it doesn't really matter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    my3cents wrote: »
    I've tried sledge hammer and there is nothing there that a blowtorch will damage. The hole point is to replace the bearings so if the heat damages the bearing it doesn't really matter.

    Did you try belting the half shaft in towards the box a little to free it from the hub?
    (I take it you’ve removed the big laminated nuts!?)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,124 ✭✭✭Mech1


    take the shaft and hub to a hydraulic press


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    martyc5674 wrote: »
    Did you try belting the half shaft in towards the box a little to free it from the hub?
    (I take it you’ve removed the big laminated nuts!?)

    Yep, tried that and nothing moved. Laminated nut came off easily was expecting that to be the hard part :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Mech1 wrote: »
    take the shaft and hub to a hydraulic press

    I was hoping not to have to do that. I'm only working off the ground so taking the shaft off will be a bit of a pain.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭pablo128


    Do you have something or someone holding the hub out as your hitting it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    pablo128 wrote: »
    Do you have something or someone holding the hub out as your hitting it?

    Its was supported on wooden blocks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents




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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭pablo128


    Dunno so. What I usually do is leave the nut on as many threads as I can and hit that rather than the CV joint shaft. Nuts are easier to replace. If it moves even a couple of mm it will get much easier to knock out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    pablo128 wrote: »
    Dunno so. What I usually do is leave the nut on as many threads as I can and hit that rather than the CV joint shaft. Nuts are easier to replace. If it moves even a couple of mm it will get much easier to knock out.

    Problem is its not moving at all. That was the first thing I tried. Then after trying a few other things I went back and tried that with a bit more force and damaged the thread on the end of the shaft. Not a total disaster as there is plenty of thread left for the new nut but the original is destroyed .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    my3cents wrote: »
    Yep, tried that and nothing moved. Laminated nut came off easily was expecting that to be the hard part :o

    You need to do it with the hub carrier still attached to the strut and ball joint. (Excuse if I’m staring the obvious)

    I’d load up the pullers as much as you can and heat the hub as close as you can to where it meets the splines.
    If you have an SDS drill you can use it on hammer only(not spinning)... with a chisel bit as an air hammer on the end of the half shaft.

    Otherwise your looking at removing shaft and hub.,, it’s suprisingly quick to do actually but you’ll need to drain the gearbox first.
    Marty.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    my3cents wrote: »
    Problem is its not moving at all. That was the first thing I tried. Then after trying a few other things I went back and tried that with a bit more force and damaged the thread on the end of the shaft. Not a total disaster as there is plenty of thread left for the new nut but the original is destroyed .

    Those nuts are only a couple of quid in Ford parts centre.
    I had a rough time doing one of those before and ended up having to hacksaw a quarter inch off the shaft I had hammered it so bad to get it off!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    martyc5674 wrote: »
    Those nuts are only a couple of quid in Ford parts centre.
    I had a rough time doing one of those before and ended up having to hacksaw a quarter inch off the shaft I had hammered it so bad to get it off!!

    Well given up :mad: Spent another hour heating and trying the puller with no luck then an hour chasing the damaged thread with a junior hacksaw blade and got a new nut back on cleanly. I did work it on and off clearing out any swarf as I went but was lucky enough to get the nut on square to start with.

    I'll book it in with the mechanic that was going to press the bearings in and out for me and tell him it might be a bigger job than normal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,866 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    my3cents wrote: »
    Well given up :mad: Spent another hour heating and trying the puller with no luck then an hour chasing the damaged thread with a junior hacksaw blade and got a new nut back on cleanly. I did work it on and off clearing out any swarf as I went but was lucky enough to get the nut on square to start with.

    I'll book it in with the mechanic that was going to press the bearings in and out for me and tell him it might be a bigger job than normal.

    Have a look here. I changed the front wheel bearings on my Avensis and have never given bother since. Mind you, I have a bigger tool deposit at my hands...

    Anyone that dismisses heat in this scenario is a completely incompetent bollox tbh


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,893 ✭✭✭rex-x


    If you have a compressor and are looking to expand your collection then buy one of these: http://www.astrotools.com/air-tools/air-specialty/0-498-shank-super-duty-air-hammer-riveter.html

    No driveshaft will refuse its persuasion


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,340 ✭✭✭mullingar


    The Focus front bearings can be tough alright. Needs a hydraulic press and the right diameter tool to push on the outer bearing race and a bit of heat to expand the carrier by just 0.001mm makes all the difference.

    Be careful of the abs sensor!


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