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Log holder...

  • 15-03-2019 1:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭


    Hello folks,

    I am thinking of getting a log holder, bit sick of cutting piles of logs and bits going everywhere and it just being a bit of a messy job... Plus, you'd hope a holder would make it that bit easier...

    Had a quick look on Donedeal, and this one prob seems best, as it can hold a good few sticks at the one time...
    https://www.donedeal.ie/tools-for-sale/log-holder-32-county-delivery-saw-horse/10725184

    Bit steep, at 170euro... But if it was good, I wouldnt mind as I'd hope it would do me a long time...

    There is this one as well, a bit cheaper, but it only holds one stick at a time..
    https://www.donedeal.ie/tools-for-sale/log-holder-saw-horse/17253782

    Just wondering if anyone has one, or if anyone has any feedback or ideas on them...

    Thanks...


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭wayoutwest


    I prefer the single log holder - i find its better for twisted + short logs ( that wouldn't fit into a bundle so well ), easier to lift heavy logs onto, lighter and smaller to carry around, less chance of pinching the chainsaw bar, allows cutting with the heel of the bar rather than the nose, easier to spot any nails/stones, allows you to be able to cut bad knotty sections a into smaller length rings (easier splitting later).
    I have the one you have linked to. Its ok - a little flimsy for really heavy logs + you have to manually adjust (3 settings) the swinging grip for different diameter logs. I'm saving up to buy this improved version - it has multiple jaws that can accommodate all diameters + looks like it could be a bit more heavy duty.
    Gallery-2.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    wayoutwest wrote: »
    I prefer the single log holder - i find its better for twisted + short logs ( that wouldn't fit into a bundle so well ), easier to lift heavy logs onto, lighter and smaller to carry around, less chance of pinching the chainsaw bar, allows cutting with the heel of the bar rather than the nose, easier to spot any nails/stones, allows you to be able to cut bad knotty sections a into smaller length rings (easier splitting later).
    I have the one you have linked to. Its ok - a little flimsy for really heavy logs + you have to manually adjust (3 settings) the swinging grip for different diameter logs. I'm saving up to buy this improved version - it has multiple jaws that can accommodate all diameters + looks like it could be a bit more heavy duty.
    Gallery-2.jpg

    Thanks Wayoutwest...

    I found this as well, cheaper and includes delivery... so I might chance it...

    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/roughneck-cm-log-cutting-bench-w.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIop2k0OiG4QIVybTtCh25WQ2uEAQYCSABEgKp1vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,372 ✭✭✭893bet


    Depends what’s your cutting. I the first one you linked to. Decent piece of kit.

    They other ones are a waste of time unless you are only cutting a few small bits.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭00wyk


    I made this Norwegian saw horse out of scrap. Has done hundreds of loads:

    https://a4.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158973628.d7edNOfV.jpg

    Here's one man's take on it:

    http://myfrenchforest.blogspot.com/2010/12/how-to-make-firewood-cutting-frame.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 867 ✭✭✭locky76


    I've used all three log holders, the first one for €170 is your only man. It is annulled proof design and you'll get 20 years out of it minimum. Very safe and secure design anne you can Lough through the timber.
    The other metal ones are rubbish, difficult to load and quite lightweight.
    The timber construction holder is nice is concept but the timber will spin around in it and you will damage the structure itself while cutting over time, I can't see it lasting more than 2 or 3 years.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 571 ✭✭✭divillybit


    I agree with Locky76 post. I bought one of these log holders and they are a good bit of kit for the money. The main thing is it makes it safer to cut up timber and you can cut several bits of timber in one pass compared to the timber croc so greater output and it helps save your back.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 177 ✭✭ppn


    Agree with the two above. The first one is a decent bit of kit and unless you are only going to be cutting one log at a time the rest are a waste of time and effort. No point cutting one at a time imo. Unless you enjoy hardship.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 867 ✭✭✭locky76


    divillybit wrote: »
    I agree with Locky76 post. I bought one of these log holders and they are a good bit of kit for the money. The main thing is it makes it safer to cut up timber and you can cut several bits of timber in one pass compared to the timber croc so greater output and it helps save your back.

    The only downside is that the logs can bite down on the daw when you're cutting the last few bits in the middle. You get cute to this however and cut up from the bottom to release the pressure on the first couple.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭Floody Boreland


    This guy has it solved. Built from scrap.





    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Z3DCiwxhGM


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 867 ✭✭✭locky76


    I normally hate ****e like this but as bodge jobs go it's actually not a bad idea.
    This guy has it solved. Built from scrap.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Z3DCiwxhGM


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭00wyk


    Here's a bit less cluttered image of the saw horsed I made:

    https://a4.pbase.com/o12/22/22/1/168965248.yNSnGeDK.241_saw_horse.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 868 ✭✭✭Boardnashea


    00wyk wrote: »
    Here's a bit less cluttered image of the saw horsed I made:
    How tall have you made it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭00wyk


    How tall have you made it?


    Dunno? I reckon maybe 4 or four and a half feet. Tall enough to do a decent load of timber, not so high I have to lift the saw up too much.


    Another thing I should note is you want to place the smallest limbs on the bottom and heavier ones up top if you have a choice. It keeps the pile from shifting so much as you cut. With this type of saw horse, the pile will shift a bit, and occasionally smaller pieces may come out of it towards yourself, so always exercise caution. And don't go using it without PPE like I am doing here...



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttVzEg8tJLI


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 571 ✭✭✭divillybit


    Its a grand log holder but if you want to get through a good lot of timber the metal saw horse are better ergonomically and safety wise. Seems like you still have to do a good bit of stooping which will leave you with a sore back after a long day. The saw horse have a chain and spring to keep the branches pulled tight and legs that extend to make them more stable. Each to their own I guess but buying the saw horse for me was money well spent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭00wyk


    I've made a lot of firewood. You won't make it faster than a norwegian saw horse. A metal one also has the risk you hit it with your chainsaw. Hit a wooden norwegian one and you only cut it a bit. Hit a metal one and you damage the saw chain or risk it coming back on you. You can make the feet of the sawhorse as stable as you like, mine are about 3 feet wide. The advantage of the steel one is it comes with a chain, but you can easily make one yourself, really.

    https://a4.pbase.com/o9/22/22/1/160042790.i7tBKdnL.274650b536_ddd79d.jpg

    https://a4.pbase.com/o9/22/22/1/158973933.t0wfdcQt.firewoodses3.jpg

    https://a4.pbase.com/o9/22/22/1/161127244.FB9THQwK.241woodle.jpg

    https://a4.pbase.com/o9/22/22/1/161376525.qHcsnjpC.b6b691df87_25bd61.jpg

    https://a4.pbase.com/o10/22/22/1/167386662.8f3YvjSX.WP_20160924_16_00_36_Pro.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,423 ✭✭✭pburns


    Mmm...I googled 'Norwegian sawhorse' & the results that came back on urban dictionary had nothing to do with cutting firewood:pac:!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 868 ✭✭✭Boardnashea


    Looks good.
    Good saw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,372 ✭✭✭893bet


    pburns wrote: »
    Mmm...I googled 'Norwegian sawhorse' & the results that came back on urban dictionary had nothing to do with cutting firewood:pac:!

    Did the same after reading your post.

    Regret it now.

    What a time to be alive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,099 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Never knew what they were called, this is my second one, made from a few offcuts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Never knew what they were called, this is my second one, made from a few offcuts.

    What wood is that, with the very green bark?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,099 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    What wood is that, with the very green bark?

    8 year old ash, removed due to dieback


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,423 ✭✭✭pburns


    8 year old ash, removed due to dieback

    Never knew of ash to look that green, even with dieback? I've a fair few ash fell over in 17yr old forestry. Forester says it's natural selection, I think it's the ones where roots near channels & took in water.

    Hopefully not dieback...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,099 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    That's the color of young ash, probably 10% we're affected by the disease when they were cut.


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