Campag Zonda C17 - wear indicator

Luxman

Hi, I have a pair of Zonda for two years, not continually used but decent mileage on them. I cannot locate any info on how to check the wear indicator. I am aware some other wheel brands have a dimple drilled into the rim and when this disappears its time to replace the wheel. However with Zondas I cannot confirm how this is done. There is ref in the tech documents that a specialised dealer should check it. Anyone done this themselves?

Wishbone Ash

Is there a line along the braking surface? It may have worn away. Compare both wheels - the back usually wears less and it might be more obvious on it.

Luxman

Although I cleaned the rim, there are still black brake pad lines (not unform) on the rims so its very difficult to make out if there was a line manufactured into the rim. My back wheel takes most of my braking and its doest indicate much of a concave profile on the rim

crosstownk

I’ve a pair of Zondas and a pair of Fulcrum 3s. Almost identical wheels. Neither have wear indicators.

I’ve over 20,000km on the Zondas and they’re still in use. The rear wheel has a decent concave at this point.

AFAIK, regulation requires wear indicators on wheels supplied as OE on new bikes but aftermarket wheels have no such requirement. I might have this wrong but that’s my understanding.

crosstownk

Double post.

Le sigh.

Wishbone Ash

It would be much easier if wear indicators appeared rather than disappeared when the surface is reaching the end of it's life. All my wheels seem to have different indicators or none. When the rim is starting to show heavy wear, I can never remember whether it had a groove or dimple.

crosstownk wrote:

The rear wheel has a decent concave at this point.

:eek: I'd be paranoid about that. I know a few lads who had spectacular blow-outs due to the rim going (one when he was just about to descend from Kippure mast - blessed!).

crosstownk

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

It would be much easier if wear indicators appeared rather than disappeared when the surface is reaching the end of it's life. All my wheels seem to have different indicators or none. When the rim is starting to show heavy wear, I can never remember whether it had a groove or dimple.

:eek: I'd be paranoid about that. I know a few lads who had spectacular blow-outs due to the rim going (one when he was just about to descend from Kippure mast - blessed!).

They’re on the commuter these days although I’ll be replacing them soon enough. I’ve used them in all conditions and haven’t once serviced the hubs and they still roll like new and stop ‘valve down’ every time. Still as true as new. Really impressive given what I’ve put them through.

sin_26

crosstownk wrote: »

They’re on the commuter these days although I’ll be replacing them soon enough. I’ve used them in all conditions and haven’t once serviced the hubs and they still roll like new and stop ‘valve down’ every time. Still as true as new. Really impressive given what I’ve put them through.

If they stop valves at the bottom it means that they not well balanced tho.

Wishbone Ash

sin_26 wrote: »

If they stop valves at the bottom it means that they not well balanced tho.

I'd be a bit puzzled if a wheel stopped with the valve in any other position.

sin_26

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I'd be a bit puzzled if a wheel stopped with the valve in any other position.

It means that weight at the valve is higher. This will cause vibrations. Lift rear of your bike go to hardest gear and spin out your wheel. This will cause your bike starts shaking. Same as the unbalanced turbo trainer flywheel cause vibrations at the high speeds. .

Eamonnator

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I'd be a bit puzzled if a wheel stopped with the valve in any other position.

Campagnolo Zondas have Rim dynamic balance, which puts a little bit of extra weight opposite the valve to conteract the extra weight at the valve.

https://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Technologies/dynamic_balance

crosstownk

I suppose it will ultimately depend on the weight of the valve vs the counter balance.

If the hub bearings were worn/tight/rough then ‘valve down’ probably wouldn’t happen every single time - especially after 20,000km.

For perfection they would need to be dynamically balanced just like a car wheel and tyre set up.