Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Aritech CS250 - False Alarms on PIR sensor

  • 09-03-2019 8:59pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭


    In the last couple of days, I've encountered several false alarms activated by a PIR sensor on an Aritech CS250. It seems to be in the mornings when the heating comes on but the sensor is a good 4 metres diagonally from the radiator. It's set to double knock and hasn't caused me any trouble since I set it to double knock about 5 years ago.

    Anyhow, I put it into a soak test this morning. Am I correct in understanding, the sensor won't activate an alarm now? Will the soak test stay in place until I cancel it? Where can I see any test results?

    Where do I start trouble shooting this issue? Last time, enabling double knock did the job but looks like this isn't working anymore. Would opening up the sensor and cleaning it help or am I looking at needing to get somebody in to replace it?

    Thanks very much for reading!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭eggerb


    Activated again this morning but a different sensor covering an adjacent zone with window and door sensors, kitchen & patio. The log items read as follows:

    002 Burglary B - RES 03 0 A1
    003 Disarm
    004 Disarm
    005 Burglary B - Act 03 5 A1

    The log entries for the 'PIR Exten' zone activations yesterday were:

    010 Local Prog Start
    011 Burglary B - RES 08 0 A1
    012 Disarm
    013 Disarm
    014 Entry time start
    015 Burglary B - Act 08 0 A1 (Sat 11:53)
    016 Burglary B - Act 08 0 A1 (Sat 09:52)
    017 Burglary B - Act 08 0 A1 (Sat 08:53)
    018 - Full Arm

    Other activations recently
    048 Burglary B Res 08 0 A1 (PIR Exten)

    No other activations recently. It might be a coincidence but the activation this morning (kitchen & patio window door sensors) might have been part of a window blind that looks to have fallen off. I was blaming the cat for the 'PIR Exten' activations yesterday but he wasn't in!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Open the pir and check for a spider. Although as you mention it could be related to heat or even the pump starting on the boiler. If no loose connections I’d replace. In a wholesaler the pir won’t be more than €15. At least then you’ll have peace of mind.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭eggerb


    Open the pir and check for a spider. Although as you mention it could be related to heat or even the pump starting on the boiler. If no loose connections I’d replace. In a wholesaler the pir won’t be more than €15. At least then you’ll have peace of mind.

    No spiders or loose connections. Still encountering activations, in the mornings, whilst in soak test. Probably best to replace it.
    So, any PIR can be connected? Is there some better than others? This is the one there at the moment..
    vxc2eh.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Any global PIR would be a direct replacement.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭eggerb


    Thanks for the advice everybody. Got a new sensor and got some advice off a colleague about wiring it up. Looks like I don't need to mess around with the 4.7k resistors that were in the old one as I can use two jumpers (at the middle positions (marked J5 & J6) on the new PIR) to do the job of the resistors. It's a dual tech sensor. I'm considering leaving the double knock left on for the zone. Thoughts anybody? Thanks again.

    15of61l.jpg


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 272 ✭✭kopkidda


    eggerb wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice everybody. Got a new sensor and got some advice off a colleague about wiring it up. Looks like I don't need to mess around with the 4.7k resistors that were in the old one as I can use two jumpers (at the middle positions (marked J5 & J6) on the new PIR) to do the job of the resistors. It's a dual tech sensor. I'm considering leaving the double knock left on for the zone. Thoughts anybody? Thanks again.

    15of61l.jpg


    Hi, can you post a link to the sensor you got please.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭eggerb


    kopkidda wrote: »
    Hi, can you post a link to the sensor you got please.


    Risco Group Digi Sense 415 DT

    https://www.riscogroup.com/products/product/5265


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    eggerb wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice everybody. Got a new sensor and got some advice off a colleague about wiring it up. Looks like I don't need to mess around with the 4.7k resistors that were in the old one as I can use two jumpers (at the middle positions (marked J5 & J6) on the new PIR) to do the job of the resistors. It's a dual tech sensor. I'm considering leaving the double knock left on for the zone. Thoughts anybody? Thanks again.

    15of61l.jpg

    If it is a new sensor id take it off the double knock.


Advertisement