Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Replacing gate valve in hotpresd

  • 26-02-2019 5:07pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,573 ✭✭✭


    Gate valve with the red wheel is passing. It's 3/4 with compression fittings. I need a decent replacement and like the look of this one. Should be a handy enough job?
    I presume the pipe work is 3/4 as the existing valve had 3/4 embossed on the side?


    https://www.mcmahons.ie/lever-ballvalve-3-4-cxc

    Its for the hot water feed from my cylinder to the hot feed on the shower pump.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,573 ✭✭✭Fingers Mcginty


    Excuse the typos ....predictive text :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Lever valve is the way to go. I never fit anything else. Foolproof, never seize up & never passes water. I won't let you down in an emergency.

    Pipe should be 3/4 inch. Turn off mains feed and drain the tank in the attic. It's simple enough to replace the valve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,573 ✭✭✭Fingers Mcginty


    Thanks. ..i don't think I need to drain the tank in the attic though? It's the hot feed to the shower pump I'm isolating which is coming from the top of the cylinder.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Thanks. ..i don't think I need to drain the tank in the attic though? It's the hot feed to the shower pump I'm isolating which is coming from the top of the cylinder.
    There should be a valve on the cold feed to the cylinder.this valve will turn off the hot water


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 951 ✭✭✭Tom44


    You shouldn't fit a valve on the outlet side of the cylinder.

    Make sure open vent isn't restricted.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    its a service valve for the shower pump


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 951 ✭✭✭Tom44


    agusta wrote: »
    its a service valve for the shower pump

    OP mentioned 3/4" off the top of cylinder, without photo we cannot assume anything, as 3/4" is on the big size for a shower pump. Hence my pointing out not to restrict expansion pipe.
    :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,974 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Have a look at the inside diameter of the valve. There's some around that are about 10mm internal..!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    Thanks. ..i don't think I need to drain the tank in the attic though? It's the hot feed to the shower pump I'm isolating which is coming from the top of the cylinder.

    Er, the cylinder is fed from a tank in the attic. Which means the pipe from the top of the tank is fed from the tank in the attic. Whilst the pipe might be higher than the top of the tank, it's not higher than the tank in the attic.

    If there's nothing isolating the cold feed to the tank near the tank then you need to drain the tank.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,573 ✭✭✭Fingers Mcginty



    If there's nothing isolating the cold feed to the tank near the tank then you need to drain the tank.

    Luckily there is a cold feed isolation valve on the tank.


  • Advertisement
Advertisement