Stud wall build. Hints and tips appreciated

thehamo

Hi all. So im going to take on a small diy project in a business premises 2mx2m L shape with door access.

What are the things i need to look out for? Ive been looking at various clips on youtube but theyre all done differently.

Thanks in advance

Calahonda52

office project: lots of issues: fire regs/access/ etc etc

alan1963

Ok tips for building stud partition
a good way is to build the framework on the ground in sections then once built fasten into position,cut all the wood first before nailing together make the frame about 5mm shorter than the height of the ceiling so it knocks in easier,do a little drawing so you dont get confused about which bit goes where
Be careful about not hitting pipes or wires when nailing or screwing into existing wall.

Always measure twice and cut once.

thehamo

alan1963 wrote: »

Ok tips for building stud partition
a good way is to build the framework on the ground in sections then once built fasten into position,cut all the wood first before nailing together make the frame about 5mm shorter than the height of the ceiling so it knocks in easier,do a little drawing so you dont get confused about which bit goes where
Be careful about not hitting pipes or wires when nailing or screwing into existing wall.

Always measure twice and cut once.

How wide would you leave the door opening for door frame?

alan1963

thehamo wrote: »

How wide would you leave the door opening for door frame?

Hi
obviously depends on the size of door,but a standard door is 762mm so for this size add on maybe 44mm for casing minus rebate =806mm then opening should be bigger to allow for adjustment in plumbness so add another 20mm or so =826mm, is better to be a slack fit(in this case).

thehamo

alan1963 wrote: »

thehamo wrote: »

How wide would you leave the door opening for door frame?

Hi
obviously depends on the size of door,but a standard door is 762mm so for this size add on maybe 44mm for casing minus rebate =806mm then opening should be bigger to allow for adjustment in plumbness so add another 20mm or so =826mm, is better to be a slack fit(in this case).

Thats a great help. Thanks a mil. Ive watched loads of videos on shimming the door frame and leveling up etc but nome have ever mentioned how wide the rough opening should be

lgk

thehamo wrote: »

Thats a great help. Thanks a mil. Ive watched loads of videos on shimming the door frame and leveling up etc but nome have ever mentioned how wide the rough opening should be

Buy the door and frame first so you know exactly how much to leave. Architraves can cover small gaps.

Calahonda52

alan1963 wrote: »

Hi
obviously depends on the size of door,but a standard door is 762mm so for this size add on maybe 44mm for casing minus rebate =806mm then opening should be bigger to allow for adjustment in plumbness so add another 20mm or so =826mm, is better to be a slack fit(in this case).

This may not be wide enough for Regs re access requirements for wheel chairs etc.

This is an office project.

Who2

If it’s an office project I’d just make the frame ope 895 wide and put the head in at 2080 high i,d make the frame on the ground in two pieces and don’t forget to put a stud carrier to take an inside slab where the two studs join. Remember when your making up your studs one will be the width of the stud wider than the other. For example if your using 4x2 one stud will be 90mm wider if your going for 2m by 2m. Sight the timbers before screwing together as well and keep all the humps facing the one way to give you a straighter wall. Use the spacing sat the bottom when your cutting your bridging too so you don’t end up gimping the end rails. If your facing the walls in ply go with 16” spacing if your going with plasterboard use 400mm spacing.