Cost of putting Jeep through doe

Dunedin

04 LWB land cruiser, 188k miles. Overall very clean and solid Jeep and on the key winter and summer.

Bought it off a non-farming friend 4 years ago and he had it for 10 years so it got no hardship in the past and gets none from me either.

It still costs €400-500 every year to put through the test. Always seems to be something up with it.

Would that be normal for a Jeep like this.

Jb1989

Dunedin wrote: »

04 LWB land cruiser, 188k miles. Overall very clean and solid Jeep and on the key winter and summer.

Bought it off a non-farming friend 4 years ago and he had it for 10 years so it got no hardship in the past and gets none from me either.

It still costs €400-500 every year to put through the test. Always seems to be something up with it.

Would that be normal for a Jeep like this.

It is for the 1999 cruiser I had.
great engine but always looking fiddly things like calipers. Bushes etc,
more so than any pajeros of same era.

Rows Grower

Dunedin wrote: »

04 LWB land cruiser, 188k miles. Overall very clean and solid Jeep and on the key winter and summer.

Bought it off a non-farming friend 4 years ago and he had it for 10 years so it got no hardship in the past and gets none from me either.

It still costs €400-500 every year to put through the test. Always seems to be something up with it.

Would that be normal for a Jeep like this.

If it's 400-500 outside of normal wear an tear expenses that should be done anyway you need either a new jeep or new mechanic.

whelan2

Ours is an 04 as well, passenger. Always around 500 including what ever tyres. Ours managed to get through test with no back lights working on it. Total joke.

Still waters

In fairness that's cheap, 500 a year to keep it roadworthy is hardly worth talking about, mine is always up around the 800 mark but it gets a lot more work than the average jeep and does about 30k a year

arctictree

Just passed my DOE today on an 05 SWB landcruiser. Cost me €1400 to get it ready and jeep was in the garage for most of the week. At least I know it's good for another year at least and sure beats replacing it. But €500 seems about right as an average yearly figure.

Nobbies

Dunedin wrote: »

04 LWB land cruiser, 188k miles. Overall very clean and solid Jeep and on the key winter and summer.

Bought it off a non-farming friend 4 years ago and he had it for 10 years so it got no hardship in the past and gets none from me either.

It still costs €400-500 every year to put through the test. Always seems to be something up with it.

Would that be normal for a Jeep like this.

if your doing big annual milage then i,de say it's not too bad a spend.if your only doing less than then average, then maybe someone's putting the hand in??? with that said cvrt has become more difficult to get apass on in recent years.

Nobbies

there going hard on the chassis at test.so if your chassis is in fair good shape consider getting her treated with some kind of rust preventer? i,m sorry i didn't do something like it on my own 10 years ago.

Dunedin

Dunedin wrote: »

It still costs €400-500 every year to put through the test. Always seems to be something up with it.

Would that be normal for a Jeep like this.

I should have added that this includes test fee and I usually don’t spend a cent on it for the rest of the year.

Reading the comments here, it seems it would be about normal. I’ll just keep plugging along so for another while til I win the lotto and land a 191 in the yard.

Grueller

Dunedin wrote: »

I should have added that this includes test fee and I usually don’t spend a cent on it for the rest of the year.

Reading the comments here, it seems it would be about normal. I’ll just keep plugging along so for another while til I win the lotto and land a 191 in the yard.

I always say you have two options with machines. Repair or repay. I usually repair.

shrek008

2014 amarok with 32k miles or 2015 Ford ranger with 22k miles, any opinions?

_Brian

I’d say on most ‘04 vehicles that sort of non routine maintenance costs would be standard.

My ‘09 Tiguan would certainly cost that outside services to keep in top condition.

390kid

It’s always around that figure for me with a 01. Neighbor had a 06 that cost around 1900 to put through!

blue5000

Dunedin wrote: »

I should have added that this includes test fee and I usually don’t spend a cent on it for the rest of the year.

Reading the comments here, it seems it would be about normal. I’ll just keep plugging along so for another while til I win the lotto and land a 191 in the yard.

If you think about it, it's only a tenner a week.

One of the problems with Land Cruisers is you can't buy individual rubber bushings anymore and get them pressed in. You have to buy the piece with new bushings already in them.

Has anyone on here used waxoyl underneath to try keep the rust at bay?

Still waters

shrek008 wrote: »

2014 amarok with 32k miles or 2015 Ford ranger with 22k miles, any opinions?

My opinion would be if you want to look good buy the amarok, they're popular with foremen and electricians who wear the snickers gear, still made by volkswagon so be prepared for the associated problems with the brand

If you're interested in a work horse then buy the ranger, 3.2 litres, 3.5 ton towing capacity, loads of power and a good looking machine, I've only heard good reports from anyone that buys them either new or second hand, and mechanically sound, it's my next purchase as soon as the wagon I have wears out

Turbohymac

Well it's not a costly jeep as per your earlier admission that it doesn't get anything else during the year and the 400 yearly includes the cvrt test fee.
You could buy a new 45k jeep and just imagine what it would depreciate in the first year on and you'd still have to pay the cvrt fee.... from my side as a mechanic I'd say you're doing well but a bit of routine maintenance during the year could help lots.. after all it shouldn't need expensive work every year..however if you're breaking taillights etc you cant blame that on the jeep.. there definitely the best around for that era..imagine the newer vehicles with egrs etc that give trouble and cost big.. maybe your existing mechanic is throwing in spurious crap parts ..who knows.. along with the test fee of 111. That means you're really only spending around 300 if that's a good service..labour. and maybe belts pads or discs your not doing bad..
As for shrek 008. Ive had to replace far too many Ford engines especially transits.. there absolute ****e..a lada would be better..and if any warranty issues arise you'd be better peeing against the wind.. but I haven't any experience of the 3.2. .I would either buy vw or Toyota .. for reliability and value when selling on..however the early amoracks are only 2litre and the highest powered 160bhp is bi turbo. Ie 2 turbos. I had one on a crafter and it never gave any trouble but hadn't the overall torque of the earlier 2.5 engines and was much heavier on fuel.. so for me unfortunately none of those 2.. I'd be a 3 liter hilux.. up to 2016.. now only available in 2.4 but ducking up fuel to throw out 171 bhp..

Who2

blue5000 wrote: »

If you think about it, it's only a tenner a week.

One of the problems with Land Cruisers is you can't buy individual rubber bushings anymore and get them pressed in. You have to buy the piece with new bushings already in them.

Has anyone on here used waxoyl underneath to try keep the rust at bay?

Try Milner 4 x4.

paddysdream

blue5000 wrote: »

If you think about it, it's only a tenner a week.

One of the problems with Land Cruisers is you can't buy individual rubber bushings anymore and get them pressed in. You have to buy the piece with new bushings already in them.

Has anyone on here used waxoyl underneath to try keep the rust at bay?

Good few bushings available for Landcruiser online.
Gave up buying spurious wishbone bushings as some only lasted 4/5 months.Have all changed at this stage to ones from roughtrax 4x4.Not cheap(still a bit less than Toyota dealer ones though) but they have lasted 2/3 years at this stage.Trailing arms and drop links changed to these poly bushings as well.Very easy to fit but old ones a pig to get out at times.

Know the wagon here sees a lot of off road with trailer but was failing every year on Doe for worn bushings/droplinks/anti roll bar bushings etc.Passed last 2 years with no suspension problems.It has 350k on an 06.
Only issue this year was drooping hinges on drivers door and on rear door.New hinges costly enough so got s/h tailgate ones and new ones for drivers door.