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Insulated Plasterboard Fixings

  • 17-01-2019 3:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,760 ✭✭✭


    Hi Folks,

    I will be fitting a kitchen to a wall that has an 82mm of insulation on it and I need to fix the rail for the units to it. I DO NOT have any over counter units so this is just for the under counter level ones.

    I was going use a 120x6mm frame fixing to hit the block but this may be overkill considering the units have 4 feet on the ground.

    I will need some fixings for the extraction hood however.

    Can anyone recommend maybe some fixings they have found to be strong in insulated boards.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    For extractor if its a wall mounted one id be looking to fix into the brick tbh. for the counters you could use simple plasterboard fixings, after all if its stable then its really just to prevent minor movement. They are holding no weight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,760 ✭✭✭Theta


    listermint wrote: »
    For extractor if its a wall mounted one id be looking to fix into the brick tbh. for the counters you could use simple plasterboard fixings, after all if its stable then its really just to prevent minor movement. They are holding no weight.


    Any you have used that you found good? I have used some in the past that arent worth jack.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Theta wrote: »
    Any you have used that you found good? I have used some in the past that arent worth jack.

    Metal toggle ones are good but tend to work when fixing something thin like a picture or shelf bracket.

    In your case i presume there is timber at the rear of the press unit to go through. So you probably best using either Plastic or metal self drive fixings.

    You are not holding weight as you stated so these are fine for movement prevention


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭5T3PH3N


    listermint wrote: »
    Metal toggle ones are good but tend to work when fixing something thin like a picture or shelf bracket.

    In your case i presume there is timber at the rear of the press unit to go through. So you probably best using either Plastic or metal self drive fixings.

    You are not holding weight as you stated so these are fine for movement prevention

    We do this type of stuff all the time, nothing better than concrete screws.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,334 ✭✭✭OfflerCrocGod


    Maybe something like this https://www.fischer-international.com/en/products/fixation-on-etics-insulation/thermax/thermax-8-and-10/thermax-8 but for internal use? Although I see no reason why you can't use them internally. I have a box of https://www.fischer-international.com/en/products/fixation-on-etics-insulation/fixing-in-insulation-material/insulation-fixing-fid/510971-fid-90 if you wanted to buy them but I don't think they would hold the weight and they'd be too long.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 333 ✭✭mick121


    You can get 150mm screws in most builder providers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    As above but I'd also give it a sliver of tec7 and it's not gonna move.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    5T3PH3N wrote: »
    We do this type of stuff all the time, nothing better than concrete screws.

    Actually no idea why I didn't suggest express screws. I used them in my own .


    Having an off day ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 208 ✭✭jhenno78


    Ikea?
    I've done this myself and used concrete screws. Frame fixings wouldn't be up to the job. Concrete screws were perfect, the only quirk being that I had to file off some of the thread under the heads to get the fitting on. Nice and easy to adjust too as you'll need to back them off and tighten to level the rail.

    Whatever about what was said here, the rails are extremely important. The feet are only on one side and aren't fixed. Any push/pull/flex/sliding of the feet/misalignment/poor adjustment of the feet gets taken out on the rails. The rails will take a lot of the force normally and could take it all if things aren't quite right. If you wanted you could do without the feet, but not the rails. Just fixing to the plasterboard is a definite no-no.


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