Advice on gap inside door

mobfromcork

Folks,
Trying to repair some water damage around out front door. Before we moved in a large amount of water got in under the aluminium door frame and rotted the semi solid wood floor back around 1 foot as can be seen below
[IMG][/img]
The aluminium frame is just sitting on the concrete and the gap underneath wasn't sealed completely. I have sealed the outside of the door now with Tec 7 all the way along and then a quick set concrete mix sloping from the lip of the frame down to the path outside.
I started to pull up the boards a bit earlier. We plan on tiling the whole width of the door frame back approx 60cm from the frame. There is a poured concrete floor (circa 2009) underneath which has underfloor heating pipes running through it. However, the concrete stops approx 2 inches short of the door frame and there was a 3x2, which is now rotted, on edge running along the length of the frame just inside the door. Under that there is styrofoam. The concrete starts again directly under the doorframe.
I plan on cutting across the floorboards horizontally the required distance back from the door and removing them. Removing the 3x2. Pour fresh concrete mix where the 3x2 was to bring it up to the level of the rest of the floor. Leave to dry. Then lay floor tiles on top. The wood is 20mm in depth - floor tile is 12mm and can out an 8mm bed of adhesive.
Is there any reason I shouldn't pour the concrete where the 3x2 is? Was it only there to secure the floorboards or would there be another reason for it please? If anyone has any other advice on anything I'm overlooking it would be gratefully received
Thanks
Mark

Lumen

If you do that you'll be cold bridging the floor all the way to the outside.

Maybe use structural foam like this

https://www.partel.ie/product-details/Thermal-Bridging/Compacfoam-CF-100-

Would a recessed door mat not make more sense than tiles?

mobfromcork

Thanks for the reply.
Would something like Jackoboard do the same job? There's a local place that stocks it I think.
A recessed door mat would work in lots of cases but we have 2 small kids, dogs and live in the sticks. That mat would be wrecked quickly and often and an inset mat might be tricky to clean and dry. There should still be room for a thin mat over the centre of the tiles if we need it (which we almost certainly will!). Tiles were bought yesterday so
Also, tiles are bought so no going back now...

Thanks for the advice on the thermal bridging

Mark

Lumen

mobfromcork wrote: »

Thanks for the reply.
Would something like Jackoboard do the same job? There's a local place that stocks it I think.

I think you want the stuff that's intended for perimeter insulation.

Have a look on the Applications page.

https://www.jackon-insulation.com/applications/

The numbers of these products (Kingspan is the same) relate to the compressive strength in kPa, more is better.

But I'm guessing here....

mobfromcork wrote: »

A recessed door mat would work in lots of cases but we have 2 small kids, dogs and live in the sticks. That mat would be wrecked quickly and often and an inset mat might be tricky to clean and dry.

I tick all those boxes too and mine is fine. Apols for terrible pic. It gets cleaned....almost never.



The reason I suggested a mat is that tiles are a bit fussy about the ridigity of what's underneath and since you have different materials you need to be careful or else you'll get movement and they'll crack.

mobfromcork wrote: »

Tiles were bought yesterday so
Also, tiles are bought so no going back now...

Ah, right. As you were then.

mobfromcork

So here's the state of affairs at the moment
[IMG][/img]
I spent the day trying to make sure everything was watertight. Poured more concrete at the outside of the frame at the bottom at an angle to encourage any rain to run away from the door. Then cut away all the floorboards and started to clean out all the rotten timber. There is foil backed foam underneath the concrete and the timber (think it says Kingspan). There is underfloor heating with s top screed over it. This top layer seems to be very flaky in places unfortunately but not going to worry too much about it for now.
I then used Tec 7 and another Bostik waterproof sealant to completely seal the underside of the frame from the inside. The gap where the 3x2 was isn't standard the whole way. The building is circa 180 years old so when they were renovating I'd imagine they had to make some compromises with squaring up walls etc. Was thinking of using strips of foil backed xtratherm floor insulation so that the foil was on the vertical sides of the cut pieces and then filled in any gaps with expanding foam on the inner side of the gap?
I know it's not as good as some of the products linked above but I have enough here to do the job and am trying to get this part of the job wrapped up before the end of the weekend if I can. Must do all the door seals too.
Discussed the recessed heavy mat with the chief aesthetician and it may be given the go ahead. Could use the tiles somewhere else (or return if they'll take them back). The mat, cut to measure, would be a far handier finish.
Thanks again for the ideas/input
Mark

listermint

Yeah the mat would be better. Tiles are slippy as you like at an entrance and would constantly need cleaning

mobfromcork

Thanks for the advice, nearly done. Filled in the bigger holes with Kwikrete. Filled long gap by door with foiled insulation board nearly to top. Cut a long strip of mahogany and nailed it in to help solidify and retain floorboards. Covered the strip of 3x2 timber with some metal mesh and poured latex levellng compound suitable for underfloor heating over the top.
Cut and fitted coir matting today and will fit strip when I collect it tomorrow.
[IMG][/img]

listermint

Nice job!

wait4me

Very nice job - well done!

J.R.

That turned out very well - very professional looking finish.