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Changing a circulating pump.

  • 04-12-2018 02:05PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33


    Hi Guys. Need to change the circulation pump in the house. Trouble is that there are no service valves either side of it and no valve at lowest rad in the house. Is the one on the oil burner for this use, following the normal procedures for lowest point rad? Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,480 ✭✭✭monseiur


    ...........until the professionals come along.
    I was in a similar position last year. Service valves were fitted but were seized so had to drain the whole system. The valves were the type your turn with a screwdriver - bad idea
    When fitting your new pump I'd advise to fit 2 lever type ball valves the ones with the red lever handle, they're suitable for hot water up to 95 degrees Celsius according to the manufacturers. It's a good practice to open & close all valves once or twice a year to stop them from seizing.
    M.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,478 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    monseiur wrote: »
    ...........until the professionals come along.
    I was in a similar position last year. Service valves were fitted but were seized so had to drain the whole system. The valves were the type your turn with a screwdriver - bad idea
    When fitting your new pump I'd advise to fit 2 lever type ball valves the ones with the red lever handle, they're suitable for hot water up to 95 degrees Celsius according to the manufacturers. It's a good practice to open & close all valves once or twice a year to stop them from seizing.
    M.


    There are dedicated (no extra fittings needed) wheel type valves available now and are a great job.


    Have to agree with you that slotted screw type are rubbish.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    In fairness the 1/4 turn lever type red handle pump valves are excellent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33 jlav1


    Hi Guys. Upon further inspection, there are 2 ball type valves either side (screw). The screw is not at the top of the valve, more gone further around towards the wall. Almost like it was tightened too much without holding it with a spanner whilst putting on the pump. I can just about get to the screw and as soon as I turn it it starts pissing out the threads of the screw. Guessing the valves are shot? Thanks again


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    jlav1 wrote: »
    Hi Guys. Upon further inspection, there are 2 ball type valves either side (screw). The screw is not at the top of the valve, more gone further around towards the wall. Almost like it was tightened too much without holding it with a spanner whilst putting on the pump. I can just about get to the screw and as soon as I turn it it starts pissing out the threads of the screw. Guessing the valves are shot? Thanks again
    yes,this is the weakness in these valves.happens nearly all the time


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33 jlav1


    Feck it! So best bet is drain down, replace the valves for lever ball valves(1/4 turn), new pump and then ditch the thermals! In fairness, better job. As well to be done now while I'm at it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    i fit the gate type pump valve,nothing wrong with them.the 1/4 turn lever pump valve i find more cost abit more


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33 jlav1


    Thanks agusta. Could I leave the old olive and nut on to connect to the new gate? Wrap ptfe on it (olive)?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    yes,one one side,The gate valves are longer so on the other side the pipe will have to be cut back abit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 33 jlav1


    Thanks again. I'll get them in the morn and fit then. Thanks to everyone that helped.


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