Led bulbs

larchielads

Hi lads, looking for a replacement led headlight for a cbr600f4 2000 model. Anyone know anywhere in ireland i can buy em on line and which one should i get. Was on amazon but im gettin mixed reviews of some leds that theyre not bright enough or i need to change out the wiring. Im not 100% sure myself so any help is appreciated , thanks

mamax

See here http://www.motorcyclegear.com/info_pages/fit_application_chart_piaa_headlight_bulb_honda.html and figure out your exact model
And I'd recommend osram nightbreakers they are far more reliable than led headlights

larchielads

I need leds to reduce the load on my battery, thanks for the link

larchielads

Finding that site hard to navigate can't seem to find anything. I clicked on the link then it opened up a bulb chart but won't let me search for the bulbs???

larchielads

Ah I get it , it only tells you the product you need but doesn't actually sell you the product

blade1

Why do you need to reduce the load on the battery?
Is there something else on the way out?

larchielads

Long story, basically my bike cuts out when the fan comes on with the lights on, but doesnt cut out when lights are off. Tried replacing rectifier, alternator and battery , none of which have solved my problem so gonna try all my bulbs with leds to see if that helps

blade1

It might help yeah.
You're losing power somewhere.
I'd be trying to get to the source of the problem.
Is this a common issue with f4's.
Any connectors between the stator and the regulator that may be prone to corrosion?

carl456

Did you check starter relay connections?

larchielads

Dont know much about bikes where would i find that?would it be where the lights relay is down at the side ofvthe seat?

larchielads

blade1 wrote: »

It might help yeah.
You're losing power somewhere.
I'd be trying to get to the source of the problem.
Is this a common issue with f4's.
Any connectors between the stator and the regulator that may be prone to corrosion?

Yeah its common and most people say change the rectifier, which ive done

mamax

Does it happen when the lights are off ?

larchielads

https://youtu.be/JDBP570aZYU basically this is whats happening

larchielads

mamax wrote: »

Does it happen when the lights are off ?

Nope

listermint

Youve a short or a drain somewhere,

Replacing the bulbs is not the answer.

If you are having battery problems due to lights being on then the bike is not fir for purpose.

Start with the basics, What is coming off the battery ? remove it all.

Then check if the battery is charging from the Alternator when on. If its not getting enough charge then its not topping up the battery.

how old is the battery, is that rubbish ?

larchielads

listermint wrote: »

Youve a short or a drain somewhere,

Replacing the bulbs is not the answer.

If you are having battery problems due to lights being on then the bike is not fir for purpose.

Start with the basics, What is coming off the battery ? remove it all.


Then check if the battery is charging from the Alternator when on. If its not getting enough charge then its not topping up the battery.

how old is the battery, is that rubbish ?

When you say whats coming off the battery do you mean if theres anythin extra connected to it or do you just mean lights etc?
The alternator is brand new and the battery is 12 months old.
The battery will stay at 14.2 when lights are off , example after getting up to temp the fan cuts in the batt goes down to 13.5 ish then fan stops batt goes back up to 14.2 but will eventually cut out all the while the lights are on. None of this happens when lights are turned off.

carl456

The reason the bike cuts out is that the current draw through some part of the circuit, when the fan and lights are on, exceeds its current carrying capability. This is most probably caused by corrosion or a burnt connection caused by resistance. A short would blow a fuse. The headlights and fan together pull quite a bit of current.

I'm open to correction but I believe the cbr600 fan supply comes straight from the ignition barrel to the fuse box. There is only one supply to the ignition barrell from the battery. This means your problem lies between the battery and ignition barrell. There is only two connections, the block connector that is on the end of the ignition barrell wires, probably under the tank and the starter relay. Google starter relay to see what it looks like. There should be a red plug on top of this relay, pull it off and look at the connections as well as the state of the plug. Make sure to check the ignition barrell connector too. My guess is that you'll see a burnt connection on one or both of those.

I'd put a lot of money on it being either one of these. I've had the same problem on separate hondas, both had the above problems.

Best of luck.
Carl

larchielads

carl456 wrote: »

The reason the bike cuts out is that the current draw through some part of the circuit, when the fan and lights are on, exceeds its current carrying capability. This is most probably caused by corrosion or a burnt connection caused by resistance. A short would blow a fuse. The headlights and fan together pull quite a bit of current.

I'm open to correction but I believe the cbr600 fan supply comes straight from the ignition barrel to the fuse box.

There is only one supply to the ignition barrell from the battery. This means your problem lies between the battery and ignition barrell. There is only two connections, the block connector that is on the end of the ignition barrell wires, probably under the tank and the starter relay. Google starter relay to see what it looks like. There should be a red plug on top of this relay, pull it off and look at the connections as well as the state of the plug. Make sure to check the ignition barrell connector too. My guess is that you'll see a burnt connection on one or both of those.

I'd put a lot of money on it being either one of these. I've had the same problem on separate hondas, both had the above problems.

Best of luck.
Carl

Have someone lookin at it at the min so ill see if they sort it and if not ill go at it myself. Thanks

larchielads

Just thinkin about your explanation, what does the ignition barrel or starter relay have to do with the bike cutting out when the lights are on? Genuinely dont see the connection between them as i said i i dont know much about bikes im not questionin your knowledge its just i dont get it

carl456

larchielads wrote: »

Just thinkin about your explanation, what does the ignition barrel or starter relay have to do with the bike cutting out when the lights are on? Genuinely dont see the connection between them as i said i i dont know much about bikes im not questionin your knowledge its just i dont get it

No problem. All the current the bike consumes runs from the battery through the starter relay connector through the ignition barrel and goes down to the fuses from there. From the starter relay there is a single wire that goes to the ignition, this carries the bikes entire current load.
When the bike is running and everything bar the fan is on this wire has the cabability to carry the load . When the fan comes on it too draws current through this wire. If there is bad connections in this wire, starter relay and ignition barrell/connector, the current draw creates heat which increases resistance greatly which in turn causes a big voltage drop across this point leading to a decrease in voltage to the entire bike and the bike cuts out.

Carl

larchielads

carl456 wrote: »

No problem. All the current the bike consumes runs from the battery through the starter relay connector through the ignition barrel and goes down to the fuses from there. From the starter relay there is a single wire that goes to the ignition, this carries the bikes entire current load.
When the bike is running and everything bar the fan is on this wire has the cabability to carry the load . When the fan comes on it too draws current through this wire. If there is bad connections in this wire, starter relay and ignition barrell/connector, the current draw creates heat which increases resistance greatly which in turn causes a big voltage drop across this point leading to a decrease in voltage to the entire bike and the bike cuts out.

Carl

If that is the answer to my problem, u sir are a genius

two wheels good

An interesting problem. Looking fwd to reading the (successful) outcome.
I was thinking:
- could the fan be gunged-up and need a clean. Drawing excess current to get it going. Probably a hassle to get at to remove it though. Can you feel any resistance\roughness when turning the fins by hand?
- running a temporary power lead to the fan would help prove Carl's diagnosis. If there's no evidence of bad/burnt connections in the loom.

Good luck.

carl456

two wheels good wrote: »

An interesting problem. Looking fwd to reading the (successful) outcome.
I was thinking:
- could the fan be gunged-up and need a clean. Drawing excess current to get it going. Probably a hassle to get at to remove it though. Can you feel any resistance\roughness when turning the fins by hand?
- running a temporary power lead to the fan would help prove Carl's diagnosis. If there's no evidence of bad/burnt connections in the loom.

Good luck.

A temporary wire from the battery to the fan would help isolate the problem. Ideally a multimeter and measuring voltage drop across the relay, connector and ignition switch itself would be the best thing.
If the fan was drawing excess current it would blow the fuse. No harm checking it though.

two wheels good

carl456 wrote: »

A temporary wire from the battery to the fan would help isolate the problem. Ideally a multimeter and measuring voltage drop across the relay, connector and ignition switch itself would be the best thing.
If the fan was drawing excess current it would blow the fuse. No harm checking it though.

What voltage drop would you say is acceptable/excessive?
Okay, I realise now you don't suspect the ign-sw to fan section of the circuit.

larchielads

two wheels good wrote: »

An interesting problem. Looking fwd to reading the (successful) outcome.
I was thinking:
- could the fan be gunged-up and need a clean. Drawing excess current to get it going. Probably a hassle to get at to remove it though. Can you feel any resistance\roughness when turning the fins by hand?
- running a temporary power lead to the fan would help prove Carl's diagnosis. If there's no evidence of bad/burnt connections in the loom.

Good luck.

Fan is fine , spins freely.
Voltage only drops when fan and lights on together , turn off the lights and the bike will run perfectly

carl456

two wheels good wrote: »

What voltage drop would you say is acceptable/excessive?
Okay, I realise now you don't suspect the ign-sw to fan section of the circuit.

On a 12volt system, whether it be a bike or car etc, anything above 0.5 volts would make me check connections. It needs to be checked from the battery positive to the ignition switch. This will check the entire voltage feed. If a big drop is found the you can start doing voltage drop tests across the starter relay, ignition connector block etc but to be honest you'll probably see the damage with your eye although the starter relay could be corroded or burnt inside.

larchielads

Right guys, got my problem sorted. I found a guy on line, after a lot of searchin, with the same problem as me. What he did was he checked to see if he had corroded wires or connections from the wires connected into the alternator which come from the rectifier.
So what i did was disconnected alternator from wires that go to the rectifier and just replaced them with new wires and butt connectors and she runnin like a dream, over the bloody moon i am.

I just swapped the 3 wires out as i couldnt be arsed tryin to find if it was just one wire causin the problem and just put butt connectors on as its easier then solderin, i tried but i made a mess of it, blobs of solder very untidy.

Cost me a nice sum of money tryin to solve the problem, new alternator, didnt need it, new rectifier didnt need it. Payin a couple of bike mechanics that couldnt fix it either.

So a few months of research on line and wreckin peoples heads that drive bikes to see if they had encountered my problem i finally got my answer and fixed for less than 15euro with a roll of 17 amp wire and 2 packets of butt connectors male and female from halfords......bloody electrics!!!!!!

CJhaughey

Common on many Honda bikes, the connector between Alt-Reg rec corrodes and causes massive heat and sometimes fire.
In my view wiring the Alternator directly to the R/R and the R/R directly to Battery is the best and simplest method of avoiding these issues.