Time clock or motorised valve problem?

Zane97

Hi there. I just need advice on a problem I have. So have a Horstmann Channel plus h37xl time clock working 3 zones. (Danfoss hpa2 motorised valves) Upstairs rads downstairs rads and the hot water zones.

The time clock has knocked itself off after boosting upstairs and down stairs rads for one hour.

Boiler has kept on heating the downstairs rads. Looks like the downstairs motorised valve was stuck half on. I was able to move it manually to full auto and then off. Boiler then switched off. Took the head off and the valve body is moving no problem. Same as the one for upstairs beside it. Took that off and it’s moving no problem. It’s done this 3 times now.

It it a time clock problem of the motorised valve?

agusta

Robbie G wrote: »

Hi there. I just need advice on a problem I have. So have a Horstmann Channel plus h37xl time clock working 3 zones. (Danfoss hpa2 motorised valves) Upstairs rads downstairs rads and the hot water zones.

The time clock has knocked itself off after boosting upstairs and down stairs rads for one hour.

Boiler has kept on heating the downstairs rads. Looks like the downstairs motorised valve was stuck half on. I was able to move it manually to full auto and then off. Boiler then switched off. Took the head off and the actuator is moving no problem. Same as the one for upstairs beside it. Took that off and it’s moving no problem. It’s done this 3 times now.

It it a time clock problem of the motorised valve?[/QUOTE
It a motorised valve issue if the gets stuck again,not a time clock issue

jimf

nearly always motorised valve

Zane97

jimf wrote: »

nearly always motorised valve

So can you recommend the best motorised valve to change to?

jimf

Robbie G wrote: »

So can you recommend the best motorised valve to change to?

I cant Robbie as I don't do plumbing servicing only

but I have come across this issue several times microswitch sticking is the issue

chuck eastwood

I can't see how this is a valve problem. The valve like the boiler will be controlled by the timer. The valves have no control over the boiler Unless it is wired arseways. I have the same horstman controller. I would get a sparks to take a quick look at it before forking out for a new valve.
First thing you should do if you know how is to check the coil resistance on the three valves if you have a multi meter. Even if one is faulty it still shouldn't cause the boiler to stay running after the boost time

agusta

chuck eastwood wrote: »

I can't see how this is a valve problem. The valve like the boiler will be controlled by the timer. The valves have no control over the boiler Unless it is wired arseways. I have the same horstman controller. I would get a sparks to take a quick look at it before forking out for a new valve.
First thing you should do if you know how is to check the coil resistance on the three valves if you have a multi meter. Even if one is faulty it still shouldn't cause the boiler to stay running after the boost time

There is a permanent live in a motorised valve.if the motorised valve is stuck open,the permanent live feeds the boiler even if the time clock is off

jimf

Robbie G wrote: »

So can you recommend the best motorised valve to change to?

I suppose if you change like for like then the actuator only should suffice

Wearb

chuck eastwood wrote: »

I can't see how this is a valve problem. The valve like the boiler will be controlled by the timer. The valves have no control over the boiler Unless it is wired arseways. I have the same horstman controller. I would get a sparks to take a quick look at it before forking out for a new valve.
First thing you should do if you know how is to check the coil resistance on the three valves if you have a multi meter. Even if one is faulty it still shouldn't cause the boiler to stay running after the boost time

The exact opposite is the case.

agusta

Robbie G wrote: »

So can you recommend the best motorised valve to change to?

Honeywell is the best valve i think,
In your case if the fault is the actuator ,you can buy a danfoss HPa2 head and it saves draining down the system.
But the fault may not be the actuator. the valve on the body may be sticking slightly,debris in pipework,id be checking this first.
Also the live from the time clock can be checked at the motorised valve.but highly unlikely that this has a fault

John.G

agusta wrote: »

There is a permanent live in a motorised valve.if the motorised valve is stuck open,the permanent live feeds the boiler even if the time clock is off

The actuator can be removed from the valve, if the valve stem can then be easily turned 90 deg and back again the the problem is the actuator which contains the return spring, the actuator can then be renewed without touching anything on the water side.

chuck eastwood

Wearb wrote: »

The exact opposite is the case.

Hmmm. Learn something new everyday. Can you explain how. I didn't think the live to the valve and the live to the boiler were on the same output from the timer

Wearb

chuck eastwood wrote: »

Hmmm. Learn something new everyday. Can you explain how. I didn't think the live to the valve and the live to the boiler were on the same output from the timer

They are not The live to the micro switch is a permanent live. The one to the actuator motor is from the timer.

jimf

Robbie states in his first post actuator removed and valve moving freely

agusta

jimf wrote: »

Robbie states in his first post actuator removed and valve moving freely

Yes Jimf,But Robbie said it was stuck half on,which rules out the micro switch sticking i would think

jimf

agusta wrote: »

Yes Jimf,But Robbie said it was stuck half on,which rules out the micro switch sticking i would think

it was only my tuppence worth :P:P

I wasn't expecting to be right :D:D

Wearb

Robbie G wrote: »

Hi there. I just need advice on a problem I have. So have a Horstmann Channel plus h37xl time clock working 3 zones. (Danfoss hpa2 motorised valves) Upstairs rads downstairs rads and the hot water zones.

The time clock has knocked itself off after boosting upstairs and down stairs rads for one hour.

Boiler has kept on heating the downstairs rads. Looks like the downstairs motorised valve was stuck half on. I was able to move it manually to full auto and then off. Boiler then switched off. Took the head off and the valve body is moving no problem. Same as the one for upstairs beside it. Took that off and it’s moving no problem. It’s done this 3 times now.

It it a time clock problem of the motorised valve?

Do you have a bypass? Where is the water circulating when all the valves are closed, but downstairs micro sw is calling for heat?
A multimeter would soon answer your question.

jimf

are the valves close enough to change actuators and then see does problem occur on another zone

this will give you a very simple ans valve or actuator

John.G

Wearb wrote: »

Do you have a bypass? Where is the water circulating when all the valves are closed, but downstairs micro sw is calling for heat?
A multimeter would soon answer your question.

My experience with two myson actuators was that the micro switch will stay closed (boiler run signal) until/unless the actuator/valve is fully closed so there will still be circulation through that particular zone, it would seem that the micro switch closes well before the actuator/valve is fully open, I must check it on my own Honeywell actuator some time.

Edit: Just carried out micro switch (end contact) test on my Honeywell actuator.... the switch doesn't make until the actuator/valve is fully opened (takes ~ 12 secs) and breaks within 1 to 2 secs after actuator powered down. (Valve still almost fully opened).

If I open the valve "manually" via its lever then the micro switch does not make, possibly a safety feature? so as boiler doesn't fire up as this lever is recommended by Honeywell to be used when filling the system(s).