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Tyresome talk - All things tyres

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  • 18-10-2018 9:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭


    Similar to our road friends, I think would be a good idea to have one dedicated post for all things tyres. I need to replace my own soon and I've no idea what I should purchase, I've a 27.5 inch hardtail and mostly just cycle on forest paths. Current tyres are Continental X-King.

    Dave.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭rizzodun


    For forest paths Continental Mountain King is what I used.

    For usual mixture of Irish Forests, Schwalbe Hans Dampf are a good all rounder that handle the wet weather pretty decent.
    Most popular setup for a mix of mud, roots and wet/loose stuff I've seen is probably a Maxxis Minion DHF on front for grip and a Maxxis High Roller on the rear for less rolling resistance.

    Depends on where you ride I guess.


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,961 ✭✭✭✭Wanderer78


    Bike came with hans dampf on the rear and magic Mary upfront. Hans dampf ripped eventually but was a nice tyre, still have magic Mary, great tyre. Currently running mountain king on the rear, isn't too bad


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,700 ✭✭✭bogmanfan


    Personally I always favour grip over speed. Currently have a Maxxis Minion DHF on the front and a Maxxis Aggressor on the back. I've had High Rollers in the past and found them great, as are the Magic Marys. Only tyre I've hated were the WTB Wolverines that came on my old bike. Zero grip in the wet.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,621 ✭✭✭Tenzor07


    I'll never go back to Schwobblies or ContiRiptals again, WTBleak maybe at a push...

    Maxxis are your only man for regular off road use:




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,191 ✭✭✭xxyyzz


    I don't have OCD so I don't mind mixing brands. For max grip I have a magic Mary up front and a minion dhr 2 on the back. Perfect combo for natural forest trails but they are like anchors on pedally stuff.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭seaviewphotos


    Super info lads, thanks a mill. Just watched my first youtube video on tyres, thinking of going with maxxis ardent on the front and the aggressor on the back. Next challenge is to find them at a good price.

    Dave.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    My 29er XTC is running specialized butcher and slaughter front and rear, the 29er trail bike has the 2018 specialized Hillbilly front and Maxxis Minion High Roller at the back. Finding specialized really good.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭rizzodun


    Super info lads, thanks a mill. Just watched my first youtube video on tyres, thinking of going with maxxis ardent on the front and the aggressor on the back. Next challenge is to find them at a good price.

    Dave.

    Grip always on the front, as least resistance as possible on the rear.

    To me it sounds like you have that backwards....


  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭seaviewphotos


    rizzodun wrote: »
    Grip always on the front, as least resistance as possible on the rear.

    To me it sounds like you have that backwards....

    Yep, got that totally backwards. :(:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,409 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    magic mary out front and nobby nick on the rear. Thinking of getting some proper mud tyres for the winter mind, maybe some maxxis shorty's or something


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,621 ✭✭✭Tenzor07


    maxxis ardent on the front and the aggressor on the back..

    You have that right, it's what I have used, though coming into the winter I have a Minion DHF on the front now...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,538 ✭✭✭nak


    2.6 Butchers front and rear for me on my trail bike. Running ~15psi on the 29er, loads of grip.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,162 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    Just remember to pay attention to your frame dimensions too - might not be able to fit much bigger. I've 2.25" on mine at the moment, and I don't think I can go any bigger than a 2.35" which means much fatter tyres are out in my case anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,428 ✭✭✭Gerry


    On the 29er xc bike I have a fairly aggressive setup, Nobby nic on front and rocket Ron on back. I find this is a great combo, enough grip for most situations and reasonably fast rolling. I did try an onza canis on the rear which was rubbish. The bike came with specialized fasttrak, one was an sworks which had amazing grip in the Shlomp, considering it is a low profile race tyre.
    On the enduro bike I have magic Mary on the front and a high roller on rear. It came with high roller on front also which I did not like, felt like the bike was on a knife edge.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,409 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    What's yer go to utter slop tyre setup out of interest?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,181 ✭✭✭prunudo


    Anywhere doing good deals of tyres at the moment?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭rizzodun


    Alltricks.com usually have some good prices.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    The specialized tyres are great value, think they retail at 60 each, even less on bike24/


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,191 ✭✭✭xxyyzz


    I found the specialized tyres great but they punctured very easily. The sidewalls tend to be very thin. I don't know how many butchers I punctured at BPI


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,961 ✭✭✭✭Wanderer78


    xxyyzz wrote:
    I found the specialized tyres great but they punctured very easily. The sidewalls tend to be very thin. I don't know how many butchers I punctured at BPI


    Bike park is a **** for punctures


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭rizzodun


    xxyyzz wrote: »
    I found the specialized tyres great but they punctured very easily. The sidewalls tend to be very thin. I don't know how many butchers I punctured at BPI

    Running tubeless?

    I've never seemed to have a problem at The Gap or BPI with punctures.


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,961 ✭✭✭✭Wanderer78


    rizzodun wrote:
    Running tubeless?


    What needs to be done to change over to tubeless, my rims and tyres are tubeless ready?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,621 ✭✭✭Tenzor07


    Wanderer78 wrote: »
    What needs to be done to change over to tubeless, my rims and tyres are tubeless ready?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zI9DM34LHAo


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,191 ✭✭✭xxyyzz


    rizzodun wrote: »
    Running tubeless?

    I've never seemed to have a problem at The Gap or BPI with punctures.

    Yep tubeless


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,538 ✭✭✭nak


    xxyyzz wrote: »
    I found the specialized tyres great but they punctured very easily. The sidewalls tend to be very thin. I don't know how many butchers I punctured at BPI

    3 years for me and not a single puncture. Have heard people who race downhill found the grid casing a bit weak. New Butcher with black diamond casing is tougher.


  • Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    MTB tyres I'll never buy again are any Specialized or Continental tyre. They never lasted and ripped to shreds. I went through every Specialized and Conti MTB tyre there is when I was riding the XC bike and they caused no end of misery. I swore off them years ago.

    Had a High Roller recently which buckled after a minor crash, but obviously Maxxis are well regarded so I'm not writing them off.

    I've finally settled on Schwalbe Hans Dampf rear and Magic Mary front. WTB Vigilante is also a nice front. I think the ones I have now have the Addix compound. 18 months in and no issues with these tyres (I'm going to regret saying that)

    Anyone MTBing who hasn't gone tubeless - go tubeless! It's worth doing for the lack of punctures. Don't bother doing it if your rims and/or tyres are not tubeless - I tried it years ago on non tubeless rims and it seemed to work but the tyre would roll off on any turns. If you've the right gear - it works wonders and is so easy to do yourself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,321 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Is going tubeless worth attempting on the 650b Mavic xm319 rims that came with my Boardman FS? I didn't have the funds to attempt it when I got it, and went with slime tubes, but coming into the winter I am tempted to give it a go. Google seems to be suggesting mixed results, so any recommendations for tyres to try it with?


  • Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    Is going tubeless worth attempting on the 650b Mavic xm319 rims that came with my Boardman FS? I didn't have the funds to attempt it when I got it, and went witjh slim tubes, but coming into the winter I am tempted to give it a go. Google seems to be suggesting mixed results, so any recommendations for tyres to try it with?

    I'm not sure those are tubeless rims. They seem to be about €30 new, so very entry level. The lack of info online about them tells a story. Honest answer is I wouldn't bother. I've been there and tried to get it to work with rims that were not tubeless ready and it nearly put me off mountain biking until I got proper tubeless rims and haven't looked back since. With that said - it's pretty cheap to try it and you never know - it might work, but probably not.

    For comparison - the DT Swiss XM 481 would be decent rims - €108 each. Stans ZTR Flow EX rims about €70 each but I just wrecked one of these and won't get them again. Thought they were stronger than they are. Seems like you want a nice inside width on your rims these days - 30mm or so - those XM319s are 19mm inside width it seems.

    Plenty of good tyre recommendations here - everyone has different experiences with same tyres but I think you can't go wrong with the new Addix compound Schwalbe tyres - something like a Nobby Nic for normal trail riding, Magic Mary for muddier stuff....


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,321 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Seems to be 50-50 as to whether it works. I'll have a nose around wheelsets - I'm not sure I really do enough to justify a new wheelset to be honest though!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭rizzodun


    I’ve converted two wheel sets to tubeless, it’s not that difficult in my opinion.

    Getting the right tyres does help, Maxxis tend to have a tighter bead.


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