Husqvarna 435 chainsaw

sam ford

Have a chainsaw (husqvarna 435) bought new early 2017, not starting that easily when cold, but when working and warmed up it is okay, it is out of warranty (one year) , any ideas, thought buying new would be trouble free for a couple of year, took it to dealer cleaned carburettor and fitted aspen in tank but was back to the same problem a short time later, any ideas out there,

grassroot1

Are you priming it before trying to start it.

Pkiernan

Ignition module could be on the way out.

About 70 euro if you DIY it.

jmreire

sam ford wrote: »

Have a chainsaw (husqvarna 435) bought new early 2017, not starting that easily when cold, but when working and warmed up it is okay, it is out of warranty (one year) , any ideas, thought buying new would be trouble free for a couple of year, took it to dealer cleaned carburettor and fitted aspen in tank but was back to the same problem a short time later, any ideas out there,

By any chance when you finished with it in 2017, did you drain the fuel tank, then start it and run it until any remaining petrol in the lines and carburettor was used up? This is a common cause of any 2 stroke engine failing to start after being idle for a few mths. The 2 T oil used forms a gel in the lines when left for too long. I have a Husqvarna saw as well, bought it new a few years ago, but never found it hard to start after the winter. Strange if the dealer cleaned it and it's still hard to start? How much use does it get? Was the plug and electrics checked? Husqvarna saw's are a good reliable brand, and should last for years.

sam ford

Yes grassroot1 always prime before starting,

sam ford

Pkiernan wrote: »

Ignition module could be on the way out.

About 70 euro if you DIY it.

Could the coil pack be part of ignition module, as local car mechanic mentioned "coil pack" when talking to him one evening at local filling station/garage,

sam ford

grassroot1 wrote: »

Are you priming it before trying to start it.

Yeah always prime before starting and use new petrol with husqvarna two stroke oil, had with dealer but shortly after back to same hard starting,

grassroot1

We have had a stihl and husky we have now is by far the easiest to start

invicta

Just get the saw tuned properly.

Have had Husky saws for the last 30 years and all this “advice” about glueing up, and coil packs etc.is nonsense

Never had an issue with electronics or fuel, once your fuel/oil ratio is kept religiously to 40/1.

The Nutty M

invicta wrote: »

Just get the saw tuned properly.

Have had Husky saws for the last 30 years and all this “advice” about glueing up, and coil packs etc.is nonsense

Never had an issue with electronics or fuel, once your fuel/oil ratio is kept religiously to 40/1.

This +infinity.

It's usually the simple things,no reason to over complicate things at all.
Have a Stihl 039 and a husky 435 too and they both have their good and bad points

Pkiernan

invicta wrote: »

Just get the saw tuned properly.

Have had Husky saws for the last 30 years and all this “advice” about glueing up, and coil packs etc.is nonsense

Never had an issue with electronics or fuel, once your fuel/oil ratio is kept religiously to 40/1.

Nonsense? Saws never fail then? Lucky you.

Coil went on my husky. They do fail.

jmreire

They have yet to build the perfect engine, and engine's fail, including 2 t engines. Modern electrics cause a high % of failures. And the lubricant added to the petrol in 2T engines DOES gel, and clog up the lines and carb. Google it. Happened to me the very first saw I ever bought about 15 years ago, and the dealer explained what had happened...mixed fuel left in it over the winter. I never allowed that to happen again, and never had the same problem since. The mix is very important, make sure that you follow the instructions for your particular machine.
(Personally, I always add a few drops more ) And if anyone has had 30 years trouble free chainsaws, you are blessed.

invicta

jmreire wrote: »

They have yet to build the perfect engine, and engine's fail, including 2 t engines. Modern electrics cause a high % of failures. And the lubricant added to the petrol in 2T engines DOES gel, and clog up the lines and carb. Google it. Happened to me the very first saw I ever bought about 15 years ago, and the dealer explained what had happened...mixed fuel left in it over the winter. I never allowed that to happen again, and never had the same problem since. The mix is very important, make sure that you follow the instructions for your particular machine.
(Personally, I always add a few drops more ) And if anyone has had 30 years trouble free chainsaws, you are blessed.

Yup!

Started with a 61 in ‘84(traded in going AI in 02), since then have had 261,236,and currently have 550xp,460 rancher,and 3120 pro. Also backpack leaf blower, and apart from a clutch on the 236 never an issue except for bars chains, sprockets, plugs,etc

But other saws which shall remain nameless, have broke my heart!
In fairness, saws are used all year round.

Always use a ‘single shot’ bottle to measure two stroke, so mix is always 40:1

sam ford

invicta wrote: »

Yup!

Started with a 61 in ‘84(traded in going AI in 02), since then have had 261,236,and currently have 550xp,460 rancher,and 3120 pro. Also backpack leaf blower, and apart from a clutch on the 236 never an issue except for bars chains, sprockets, plugs,etc

But other saws which shall remain nameless, have broke my heart!
In fairness, saws are used all year round.

Always use a ‘single shot’ bottle to measure two stroke, so mix is always 40:1

thanks for reply, always careful with the mix, and choke works, i'll try main dealer to check ignition again,

patsy_mccabe

sam ford wrote: »

thanks for reply, always careful with the mix, and choke works, i'll try main dealer to check ignition again,

Check and clean the gap between the spinning magnets and the starter coil. If it's too big, you will have a poor spark. I set mine before with a cut piece of coca cola can. 0.05mm if I remember right. Check the manual for the correct gap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QazBTxugYk

sam ford

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Check and clean the gap between the spinning magnets and the starter coil. If it's too big, you will have a poor spark. I set mine before with a cut piece of coca cola can. 0.05mm if I remember right. Check the manual for the correct gap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QazBTxugYk

thanks, i'll try that in the next few days,

Thepillowman

Change spark plug, connect plug onto lead before you thread it back in rest it against top of cylinder and give it a few pulls to see if you have a good spark. Check coil gap business card is what I use. Check carb settings.