MTB chain wear

haha129803

Hi all, chains really don't last for me
I am quite curious to get people's experience with chain wear on mountain bikes. Particularly those running 1x drivretrains.
Basically I'd like to know how many kilometers you get out of a chain ? I know there are many factors to influence that but say in average...?
I have to replace chains every 250/300km and I'm really not impressed. I'm using KMC chains, 32t chainring and 11speed 11-42 cassette.

prunudo

Whats your post spin maintenance/cleaning like? I've only just put a kmc onto my own (albeit 2x10), must keep an eye on it over the winter.

haha129803

jvan wrote: »

Whats your post spin maintenance/cleaning like? I've only just put a kmc onto my own (albeit 2x10), must keep an eye on it over the winter.

No issues with cleaning and lubing. Good thorough degrease and lube each link with quality stuff.
I'm more thinking it's down to chainline

muckwarrior

I can't remember when I last changed my chain. I'd estimate that I've somewhere between 600 and 1000km on it atm. I never degrease it, just throw some lube on before a ride. 1x11 with 32t up front and use Sram chains.

saccades

Same as muckwarrior but even less cleaning.

steamsey

Can I ask what is it about the chain that makes you think it needs to be replaced after such limited use?

An MTB chain should last thousands of KMs. 250-300KM is not right.

haha129803

That's interesting.
On 1x systems i think the chainline is definitely crossing too much on either end of the cassette which causes excessive wear. I had even swapped from a 34t to a 32t ring to use the high gears more often...
Rather than going by distance or time riding, I use a couple of chain checkers that show me relative stretch on the chain.
It should be replaced at.0.75 but i leave it on for bit longer because it's flippin annoying

steamsey

When the tool says that the chain has stretched, do you notice any issues with performance?

I think maybe you're too diligent with the chain wear tool. You could try working off the basis that you should get say a year of regular riding off a well maintained chain and work backwards from there towards performance (i.e if shifting is affected etc might be time to replace).

The "rules" are pretty clear on chain wear and replacing the chain, and cassette etc, but after years of obeying the rules, I've since learnt to bend them a little. I probably use the chain wear tool twice a year. Shifting / pedaling performance is my main tool for checking this - if they are affected, I'll see what's going on including checking the chain but the other 99% of the time, I'm not thinking about chain wear.

CramCycle

Are you sure the chain wear tool is right? Check does it register wear on a new chain.

boomdocker

Something wrong there
@steamsey is right - should last waaaaay beyond 250km

Something to consider, buy a second chain and alternate every few months - significantly lengthens the lifetime of both cassette and chainring(s)

Gerry

I think I get maybe 800-1000km out of a chain. But you have to clean it every now and then. I got one of those chain cleaners which clips onto the chain, a few minutes with that after every few spins seems to do the job.

haha129803

Thanks for the replies.
Do any of you guys use a chain checker ? If so which ? I have a Park Tool and ProGold


This time I'll wait until the chain starts to feel like it's grinding. The cassette is an SLX so it's not too bad. Out of curiosity a Shimano chain will go on next to match the drivetrain (cassette, derailleur, chainring)

steamsey

Park Tool Chain Checker CC-3.2

steamsey

haha129803 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies.
Do any of you guys use a chain checker ? If so which ? I have a Park Tool and ProGold


This time I'll wait until the chain starts to feel like it's grinding. The cassette is an SLX so it's not too bad. Out of curiosity a Shimano chain will go on next to match the drivetrain (cassette, derailleur, chainring)

I wouldn't wait until it starts grinding. Grinding points to a filthy chain / drive train.

A worn chain doesn't necessarily grind at all. A worn chain will skip across the teeth on the sprockets / rings and then wear those down too. It's very noticeable when this happens - imagine trying to push out in traffic on your bike and putting a load of pressure on pedals to get moving and the chain skips, and you nearly go on our face - that's when your chain (and / or drivetrain) are badly worn. It's extremely dangerous for both road cycling and MTB. If your chain is doing this - replace immediately. If you chain is grinding - clean, lube everything and check indexing - position of mech etc.

ianobrien

I've the best part of 1000km on my chain. I clean and re-lube the chain (wet lube) every 150km or so and every time I go out I give it a quick shot of PTFE spray.

I had it checked in the bike shop recently (in for a service) and they said there is plenty of life in the chain. It's a bit worn but no need to change it. So, maybe my routine works......

mloc123

steamsey wrote: »

I wouldn't wait until it starts grinding. Grinding points to a filthy chain / drive train.

A worn chain doesn't necessarily grind at all. A worn chain will skip across the teeth on the sprockets / rings and then wear those down too. It's very noticeable when this happens - imagine trying to push out in traffic on your bike and putting a load of pressure on pedals to get moving and the chain skips, and you nearly go on our face - that's when your chain (and / or drivetrain) are badly worn. It's extremely dangerous for both road cycling and MTB. If your chain is doing this - replace immediately. If you chain is grinding - clean, lube everything and check indexing - position of mech etc.

If you get to that point you will be replacing your cassette and chainrings also IMO

steamsey

mloc123 wrote: »

If you get to that point you will be replacing your cassette and chainrings also IMO

Defo - if chain starts skipping on sprockets / rings, then it won't be long before they are shot. Defo change chain before it gets to the point where it's skipping. Op - have you the chain length correct? Just thinking that this might be adding to your chain wear problem.

xxyyzz

haha129803 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies.
Do any of you guys use a chain checker ? If so which ? I have a Park Tool and ProGold


This time I'll wait until the chain starts to feel like it's grinding. The cassette is an SLX so it's not too bad. Out of curiosity a Shimano chain will go on next to match the drivetrain (cassette, derailleur, chainring)

Chains traditionally aren't one of Shimano's strong points. I'd generally replace a shimano chain with a kmc when it wears out.

CramCycle

xxyyzz wrote: »

Chains traditionally aren't one of Shimano's strong points. I'd generally replace a shimano chain with a kmc when it wears out.

I found SRAM quite decent for road bike chains, not sure about for MTB, on the same note their single speed chains are shocking.

luisspellcast

i'm on a 1x11 and I aggressively shift - ride mostly park because I hate to pedal and a chain usually lasts me 300km

emeraldmtb

Although I run Shimano drive trains, Ive always used SRAM chains because with the master link theyre easier to fit etc. Not totally convinced by their quality, they seem to corrode quite quickly unless doused in lube (I use dry lube). Never really looked at KMC as I was under the impression it was a cheaper brand... am I wrong?

steamsey

I think you're wrong alright. Have had good experiences with KMC chains. They are not a cheaper brand.

Last time however, I tried the Sram X1 11 Speed chain just to try it out. Think it was €20. Have had it since June and no issues so far and certainly no sign of any wear but it did go onto a new cassette and relatively new ring so I'm expecting it to last well into next season. Probably has 250KM on it so far, roughly.

I always steer away from Shimano chains though and can't remember why - I assume a bad experience at some point.

300KM from a chain - that's what, 20 spins? 3 months? Can I ask what chains people are getting 300Km from and what is the indication that they are for the bin? Is is just easier to get a new one than to clean existing???? Is the rest of the drivetrain worn to **** and causing the chain to wear?

luisspellcast

i'd say i did a few more than 20 spins, but didn't do an average of 15km for every spin - some long, some short but comes into play i'm heavy and put some extra tension when climbing ( when i'm not pushing the bike up, that is )

also, on a full suspension and i've been riding a lot of park so chain-tension/pedal kickback are a quite a thing

JonDoe

If you spend a lot of time climbing on say a 26 tooth granny ring then the limited number of teeth to chain contact will quicken chain wear and cutting. My last hill I had a 29er with 1 x 9 drivetrain 26 up front and 11-32 cassette. Used to ride every day (1.5 hrs) and I went through about 4 drivetrains a year.

deceit

I have a 29 mtb. I've done 12,000km on my bike. Got it serviced regularly by companies and always said I didn't need to change anything. Never changed chain or bottom bits. 200km weekly commute with always in the smaller rings as I use strength to cycle rather than high rpms.
I've just changed my chain over the weekend and wont work with crank now. I've ordered crank/cassette now. Was running only a little rough over the last month or so, other than that was perfect.

muckwarrior

deceit wrote: »

I have a 29 mtb. I've done 12,000km on my bike. Got it serviced regularly by companies and always said I didn't need to change anything. Never changed chain or bottom bits. 200km weekly commute with always in the smaller rings as I use strength to cycle rather than high rpms.
I've just changed my chain over the weekend and wont work with crank now. I've ordered crank/cassette now. Was running only a little rough over the last month or so, other than that was perfect.

Chain and chain ring/cassette had worn together. New non-worn chain doesn't match the profile of your old chain ring and cassette which is why they must also be changed.

Some people buy 2 or 3 chains and swap them around regularly so that the chains and cassette all wear together, theoretically extending the life. That said, at 12,000km I think you've gotten your money's worth

deceit

muckwarrior wrote: »

Chain and chain ring/cassette had worn together. New non-worn chain doesn't match the profile of your old chain ring and cassette which is why they must also be changed.

Some people buy 2 or 3 chains and swap them around regularly so that the chains and cassette all wear together, theoretically extending the life. That said, at 12,000km I think you've gotten your money's worth

I definitely did, my upgraded cassette arrived today. I replaced the crank first and that solved the problems.
How often should I change the chain/cassette?