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Plumbing Pipe Cap?

  • 29-09-2018 5:22am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 632 ✭✭✭


    I had 2 new bathrooms installed last year. 1 was a renovation of an old bathroom and 1 a new add on bathroom.

    The plumber decided to run both bathrooms into a new sewage pipe which then runs through an old Terracota inspection chamber. The problem now, is that the renovated bathroom no longer uses it's old sewage pipe and when sewage runs into the chamber, it runs up the old pipe and settles there. This naturally leads to a smell building up and every now and again, I have to jet wash this old pipe out :(

    What would be the best way to solve this?

    Could I purchase a cap and cap this pipe off? (I am not sure if this is even possible as the sizes of these old pipes is odd and there may not even be a cap that fits.) Could I just cement up this pipe instead and would doing this lead to any other issues?

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Id just cement it up. Keep it simple. Make sure smooth out the face as best you can


  • Site Banned Posts: 386 ✭✭Jimmy.


    Get the plumber back to sort it, careless work.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Jimmy. wrote: »
    Get the plumber back to sort it, careless work.

    Not really unless specified closing off an old external waste below ground wouldn't really be in his remit tbh.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Jimmy. wrote:
    Get the plumber back to sort it, careless work.


    I think you might be correct. If the new pipe was installed correctly then the sewage shouldn't go back up the old pipe with the exception of rare times when the sewer pipe is blocked. All other times the sewage should flow downhill away from the old pipe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I think you might be correct. If the new pipe was installed correctly then the sewage shouldn't go back up the old pipe with the exception of rare times when the sewer pipe is blocked. All other times the sewage should flow downhill away from the old pipe.

    Are you sure the new one is upstream....

    It could be downstream.


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  • Site Banned Posts: 386 ✭✭Jimmy.


    Upstream or downstream is irrelevant, sloppy work by plumber. The boom is back sure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    listermint wrote:
    Are you sure the new one is upstream....

    listermint wrote:
    It could be downstream.


    Ah feck ya. I never thought of that at all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 632 ✭✭✭cheif kaiser


    Upstream, Downstream!??! :)

    All used pipes entering the chamber are running upstream and then the exit runs downstream. I think the issue is that, the old sewer pipe used to run opposite the down stream pipe so it was a straight through action and therefore no issues but the new pipe enters the chamber from the right and basically has to turn the corner to enter the downsteam pipe. So now, when a sudden gush comes into the chamber such as when a toilet or even 2 are flushed, the levels in the chamber rise because they are not sent downstream fast enough. This results in the water and sewage sometimes entering the other pipes.

    This would normally not be a problem because all other pipes have a water flow running through them which flushes out anything that has entered, except the disused pipe. Anything that has entered this pipe is left just sitting there and over time it can build up.

    Chances of getting plumber back has 2 hopes, Bob Hope & No Hope!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Jimmy. wrote: »
    Upstream or downstream is irrelevant, sloppy work by plumber. The boom is back sure.

    Yeah, ok.


    Where's the rolls eyes.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 390 ✭✭tradesman


    First put concrete into the unused pipe. Leave it rough & approx. 1/2" back from the opening & let it set. Next day mix 1 sand to 1 cement stiffish & trowel smooth this will stop anything sticking to it. Keep troweling until it is smooth like glass


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 632 ✭✭✭cheif kaiser


    tradesman wrote: »
    First put concrete into the unused pipe. Leave it rough & approx. 1/2" back from the opening & let it set. Next day mix 1 sand to 1 cement stiffish & trowel smooth this will stop anything sticking to it. Keep troweling until it is smooth like glass

    Excellent comprehensive instructions. Thanking you!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    tradesman wrote: »
    First put concrete into the unused pipe. Leave it rough & approx. 1/2" back from the opening & let it set. Next day mix 1 sand to 1 cement stiffish & trowel smooth this will stop anything sticking to it. Keep troweling until it is smooth like glass

    Are you talking about doing this via the inspection chamber?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 632 ✭✭✭cheif kaiser


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Are you talking about doing this via the inspection chamber?

    Yes? It's the only way I can do it, other end of pipe is buried under a floor.

    Won't be a pleasant job but I'll jet it out and disinfect beforehand but has to be done!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Yes? It's the only way I can do it, other end of pipe is buried under a floor.

    Won't be a pleasant job but I'll jet it out and disinfect beforehand but has to be done!

    I just dont see how you are going to get an airtight seal nevermind a "smooth like glass" finish on with conrete and a trowel through a small inspection opening...?

    Would you consider a closed cell spray foam instead?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    GreeBo wrote: »
    I just dont see how you are going to get an airtight seal nevermind a "smooth like glass" finish on with conrete and a trowel through a small inspection opening...?

    Would you consider a closed cell spray foam instead?

    he doesnt need to get an airtight seal. The point is to keep the flow going downhill , its catching in this additional inlet and then causing backups causing the smell.

    The cement is to guide the flow onwards and out and not catch.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 390 ✭✭tradesman


    GreeBo wrote: »
    I just dont see how you are going to get an airtight seal nevermind a "smooth like glass" finish on with conrete and a trowel through a small inspection opening...?

    Would you consider a closed cell spray foam instead?

    That will hold the ****e over time. Believe me it is possible to get a smooth glass finish with cement. It is called benching a manhole. Was always done before plastic came along. Well should have been done. Take a look at really old mabholes. Sometimes there could be 5 or 6 inlets of clay pipes into the one manhole. It is a pleasureable job when manhole is 1st built. When its been in use not so nice! Beware of someone flushing when your doing it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    listermint wrote: »
    he doesnt need to get an airtight seal. The point is to keep the flow going downhill , its catching in this additional inlet and then causing backups causing the smell.

    The cement is to guide the flow onwards and out and not catch.
    If there is a smell then the foul air is getting into the bathroom and he needs to seal it off, no?
    tradesman wrote: »
    That will hold the ****e over time. Believe me it is possible to get a smooth glass finish with cement. It is called benching a manhole. Was always done before plastic came along. Well should have been done. Take a look at really old mabholes. Sometimes there could be 5 or 6 inlets of clay pipes into the one manhole. It is a pleasureable job when manhole is 1st built. When its been in use not so nice! Beware of someone flushing when your doing it!

    Yep the foam will hold the ****e, but who cares, its in the soil pipe where it belongs and there is no longer any odours getting into the OPs bathroom.
    In mye experience soil pipes are already holding ****e anyway!

    Oh I know you can get a smooth finish on concrete, I just dont see it happening via an inspection opening.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 390 ✭✭tradesman


    GreeBo wrote: »
    If there is a smell then the foul air is getting into the bathroom and he needs to seal it off, no?



    Yep the foam will hold the ****e, but who cares, its in the soil pipe where it belongs and there is no longer any odours getting into the OPs bathroom.
    In mye experience soil pipes are already holding ****e anyway!

    Oh I know you can get a smooth finish on concrete, I just dont see it happening via an inspection opening.

    When the ****e does not leave the manhole sfter sticking to the foam it will soon build up & then hey presto blocked
    manhole. Smooth finish is obtained with a strong sand & cement mix similar consistency to glazing putty.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    tradesman wrote: »
    When the ****e does not leave the manhole sfter sticking to the foam it will soon build up & then hey presto blocked
    manhole. Smooth finish is obtained with a strong sand & cement mix similar consistency to glazing putty.

    I dont think its going to build up to any great amount as its going to be washed away with every flush. Cement is porous so you are going to have ****ty water soaking through and still have a smell in the bathroom imo. You could of course try to seal it, but again not sure how successful that will be via a small opening.

    I know how you make a smooth finish, how do you trowel it through an inspection window?


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