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Replacing Room Thermostat with Wireless

  • 27-09-2018 9:22am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I have a question I was hoping someone here could answer for me.

    I have gas central heating controlled by a horstmann heating panel beside the boiler in the utility room.

    Horstmann-3-Channel-Electronic-Programmer-H37XL_dd09fd6c.jpg

    I also have 2 Robus room thermostats, one in the bedroom and the other in the hall.

    large_robus_thermostat_57ac22db.jpg

    Each controlling an individual zone of the heating system.

    My question is as follows. I want to replace the thermostat in the hall with a wireless one that can be moved to a more suitable location in the house as the hall is the coldest room in the house and essentially is a bad location for the thermostat. I've looked into hive etc, but they all seem to have to be hard wired, all I want is to keep my existing controller and just replace the thermostat in the hall with a receiver that is controlled by a wireless monitor in another room.

    Does such a device exist?

    Cheers.

    EDIT: Would something like this do the trick?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Salus-RT300RF-Radio-Frequency-Thermostat/dp/B003EQ8FMC/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1506074626&sr=1-2&keywords=rt300


Comments

  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    You can purchase 'stand alone' wireless thermostats, but the will still have a wired base (that performs the switching) including the ones you linked to. So in replacing it I would recommend Hive etc, and get rid of both the programer and stats, for Hive receivers and wireless stats


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,887 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    techdiver wrote: »
    Hi,

    I have a question I was hoping someone here could answer for me.

    I have gas central heating controlled by a horstmann heating panel beside the boiler in the utility room.

    Horstmann-3-Channel-Electronic-Programmer-H37XL_dd09fd6c.jpg

    I also have 2 Robus room thermostats, one in the bedroom and the other in the hall.

    large_robus_thermostat_57ac22db.jpg

    Each controlling an individual zone of the heating system.

    My question is as follows. I want to replace the thermostat in the hall with a wireless one that can be moved to a more suitable location in the house as the hall is the coldest room in the house and essentially is a bad location for the thermostat. I've looked into hive etc, but they all seem to have to be hard wired, all I want is to keep my existing controller and just replace the thermostat in the hall with a receiver that is controlled by a wireless monitor in another room.

    Does such a device exist?

    Cheers.

    EDIT: Would something like this do the trick?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Salus-RT300RF-Radio-Frequency-Thermostat/dp/B003EQ8FMC/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1506074626&sr=1-2&keywords=rt300
    Does it make a difference it is the coldest room in the house ?
    If it’s 10 degreees colder then the sitting room and you want the heat in the sitting room to be 21 then set the hall for 11.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    You temperature would be measured from where you place the (wireless) Hive stat, not at the receiver.

    With Hive, all the ability to turn on and off the heating also migrates from the old programmer (which is replaced with the receiver) to the thermostat. So think of the Hive Thermostat and both a thermostat and programmer together.

    You will also have the ability to do all the same from your phone (or multiple phones) iPads or PCs.
    These days I find it hard to get up off my couch, I just reach for the phone..lol!

    Once installed you can also not add other Hive products, or even control the likes of Philips Hue lights direct from your phone, or add an Amazon Alexa or Google Home, and you'll be able to command you heating by voice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭techdiver


    DGOBS wrote: »
    You temperature would be measured from where you place the (wireless) Hive stat, not at the receiver.

    With Hive, all the ability to turn on and off the heating also migrates from the old programmer (which is replaced with the receiver) to the thermostat. So think of the Hive Thermostat and both a thermostat and programmer together.

    You will also have the ability to do all the same from your phone (or multiple phones) iPads or PCs.
    These days I find it hard to get up off my couch, I just reach for the phone..lol!

    Once installed you can also not add other Hive products, or even control the likes of Philips Hue lights direct from your phone, or add an Amazon Alexa or Google Home, and you'll be able to command you heating by voice.

    Ah so the hive thermostats are wireless and can be moved around? I didn't know that. Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭techdiver


    One more confusion regarding the hive to horstmann. The horstmann controller has 3 channels. 2 heating zones and hot water.

    From reading I will need to purchase a Hive active heating bundle and an extra multi zone.

    But the hive active heating only has wiring for hot water and heating. Does that mean I need to wire 2 controllers in place of the horstmann?

    Edit: I have found the answer is yes. Also to bypass the existing room thermostats I assume I could just turn them up to the max as opposed to having to remove them and fill in the gaps?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭techdiver


    Sorry guys another question. For installing the second multi room receiver, will I need to split/loop the Live/Neutral from the first receiver?


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Hiya, sorry wasn't online in a few days.

    Yes you will need a multi zone product.

    1x Dual Receiver and Stat, 1x Single Receiver and Stat

    Dual receiver will need: Live and Neutral and Earth- Switch on 3 will control HW and 4 will control CH (zone 1)
    Single Receiver will need: Live and Neutral and Earth- Switch on 3 will control CH (zone 2) you will also need to loop from Live to 1 on the single channel to make it a 240v switch (this is internally wired on the dual receiver so no link required)

    So yes, split/loop the live/neutral/earth to both units


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭techdiver


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Hiya, sorry wasn't online in a few days.

    Yes you will need a multi zone product.

    1x Dual Receiver and Stat, 1x Single Receiver and Stat

    Dual receiver will need: Live and Neutral and Earth- Switch on 3 will control HW and 4 will control CH (zone 1)
    Single Receiver will need: Live and Neutral and Earth- Switch on 3 will control CH (zone 2) you will also need to loop from Live to 1 on the single channel to make it a 240v switch (this is internally wired on the dual receiver so no link required)

    So yes, split/loop the live/neutral/earth to both units

    Thanks for the reply.

    I have attached the current wiring config of the Horstmann and what i think is the correct wiring for the new Hive system.

    Could you have a quick look and let me know if I'm correct?

    Horstmann Wiring diagram:

    462751.gif

    My current setup with horstmann:

    462752.jpg


    So from horstmann to Hive as follows:

    Horstmann|Dual Hive|Single Hive
    L|L|L
    N|N|N
    1|4|-
    3|-|3
    5|3|-


    L - Dual L - Looped to Single L
    N - Dual N - Looped to Single N
    1 - Dual 4
    3 - Single 3
    5 - Dual 3

    The horstmann doesn't seem to have a earth wire attached.

    As below:

    462750.jpg

    Cheers


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Looks fine, but on the Single channel, you will need a link between permanent live and 1 (to make the switch 240v)

    None of them actiually need an earth (as they are double insulated) but if there was en earth there, you would your the earth connection on the backplate


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭techdiver


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Looks fine, but on the Single channel, you will need a link between permanent live and 1 (to make the switch 240v)

    So just loop permanent Live on the single to "common" on the single and I'm good to go?


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    100%


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭techdiver


    Thanks for all the help here.

    installed both today and are working fine.

    One thing I found odd was when I was testing it (testing each zone and hot water separate), I noticed that the zone2 (black wire) was actually controlling the hot water and the grey wire was the central heating. I had to swap them around. This is contrary to the wiring diagram from the horstmann and/or the hive??

    Any ideas why this could be, or is my boiler wired arseways? All the zones worked as expected in the horstmann up to this point though.


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