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Repairing Plasterboard around a socket

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  • 07-08-2018 10:28pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 15,847 ✭✭✭✭


    So big chunks of plasterboard are basically gone from around the socket in a bedroom. I don't think the socket was really fit correctly and when it was, the fitter botched the plasterboard surrounding it.

    I've temporarily fixed it up before with some pollyfilla.

    However it was in behind a chest of drawers, but now doing the room up so want to do a proper job, and for it to look as clan as possible,

    Is the best way to basically cut out a big chunk of plasterboard around the socket, ie find the wooden batons wither side and put a new piece in its place and make sure the hole is cut properly this time for the socket? but i suppose i would need to skim this then or is there pre - skimmed plasterboard?

    alternatively i could move the socket slightly and repair the wall where the socket was with something like this?

    or is there another way?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 73,391 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I’d be inclined to move the socket altogether, use a plasterboard socket box, then repair the old hole.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Post a picture. I would tek7 in a small piece of plasterboard behind the existing board, then fill the front in with some bonding or filler


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,847 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Pics attached.
    You can see I've kinda covered it up with polyfilla but it was behind a dresser. Will be out in the open from now in a teenagers room so more in use


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,576 ✭✭✭Glass fused light


    So the face of the sockets are not slotting back against the wall.
    That's the first fix which is needed.
    NB before checking be sure to switch off the electricity to plugs at the main fuse board.
    Sand the existing fix back to the original plaster.
    remove the plug face from the box by unscrewing both screws don't interfere with the wires or screws in the back of the plate.

    Is the box into which the plug face screws into, secure in the wall or would it move about?
    A plaster board box will usually have a little lip around it to stop it pushing back into the plasterboard, and little noggins to stop it pulling out. Post up pics if you are not sure. If its moving about but only a little, fix the box so the bottom is level and at the whole box sits in at the correct depth. If its not level focus on getting the bottom sorted first. Gently pull the box out so that you can fill the gap mix a fill of thick pollyfil and fill the gap between the box and the wall, gently smooth the wet filler so it is level with the existing wall, pop the box back into position and allow to dry. Before starting I would cover the internal bits with masking tape to protect against stray plaster. Check that the box is secure and not moving and rescrew the plug face in.
    and the electricity stays off for the duration of the process that the wires are exposed.

    If the wiring coming into the box pushing the socket out ie can you screw in futher if the wires were moved around?
    If this is the case you would need to rewire the plug to reduce the wire lenght by cut and strip back the wires to remove the volume


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,847 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    So the box is a plasterboard box. But to the right hand side of the box, the plasterboard was all torn and chipped and basically pulled out from the wall and therefore that is why the socket is not fitting flush to the wall.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,847 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Removing socket I think has given me the answer.

    Think it will be just easier to move it altogether


  • Moderators, Regional South Moderators Posts: 5,744 Mod ✭✭✭✭Quackster


    An alternative option might be to replace the dry lining box with a larger 2+1 one and wire in the extra socket or cover with a blank plate.

    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/leysser-sanicomfort-entlueftungsschl-2-stueck.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,847 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    Quackster wrote: »
    An alternative option might be to replace the dry lining box with a larger 2+1 one and wire in the extra socket or cover with a blank plate.

    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/leysser-sanicomfort-entlueftungsschl-2-stueck.html

    Actually that looks like a good solution.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    Quackster wrote: »
    An alternative option might be to replace the dry lining box with a larger 2+1 one and wire in the extra socket or cover with a blank plate.

    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/leysser-sanicomfort-entlueftungsschl-2-stueck.html

    Great idea assuming there is no stud to the right. Check before purchasing. Power off first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,730 ✭✭✭meercat


    I’d be more inclined to replace the socket box with one of these and screw it directly to the wall. This will give a solid fitting socket and make patching around it easier


    https://www.wesco.ie/products/p-clickwa096.html?filter_set%5B%5D=30,430,432


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