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No room for tile at back door

  • 31-07-2018 7:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭


    So my nightmare direct labour build continues...latest problem is there is no room for tile at back door. My friends at Junster Moinery installed the back door and it opened and closed fine until the tiler arrived and we noticed there wasn't room for for the tile.
    Any advice appreciated and I know I should have hired a main contractor...


Comments

  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 41,587 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    So my nightmare direct labour build continues...latest problem is there is no room for tile at back door. My friends at Junster Moinery installed the back door and it opened and closed fine until the tiler arrived and we noticed there wasn't room for for the tile.
    Any advice appreciated and I know I should have hired a main contractor...

    Replace the door with a slightly shorte one, or maybe look at cutting the existing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    kceire wrote: »
    Replace the door with a slightly shorte one, or maybe look at cutting the existing?

    It's plastered in on both sides plus I have that awkward detail of insulated slabs all around the internal reveals...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,347 ✭✭✭Rackstar


    Were Munster given the correct floor level?

    Engineer specified 150mm insulation,65mm screed and tile for us. Hoping we got it right.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Rackstar wrote: »
    Were Munster given the correct floor level?

    Engineer specified 150mm insulation,65mm screed and tile for us. Hoping we got it right.

    They came, measured, took the money and vanished...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,155 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    how much do you need to trim off:
    the thin circular blade on this tool will cut it very neatly for you
    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/391901711340

    ps: depending of course on how much you don't want to cut off the weather seals

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,347 ✭✭✭Rackstar


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    They came, measured, took the money and vanished...

    They didn’t ask about the flooring at all?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,171 ✭✭✭enricoh


    Get the angle grinder with the diamond disc out. Prepare for 9/11 levels of dust!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 471 ✭✭Turbohymac


    Hi I'm also doing a self build. And if it was my back door I would make room of an inch at least overhead the doorframe but under the support lintel. In my house there's almost 1 inch above door and 15 to 20 mm above windows which are filled with expanding foam.. but very easy with reciprocating saw to cut away and raise complete door and frame..however if it is all slabbed and skimmed/plastered it will be messy
    Either way you need it rectified now .. otherwise it will bug you longterm with small pieces of loose grit etc getting trapped between door and tiles that's even if you managed to squeeze in the tiles. In the doors current state..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    how much do you need to trim off:
    the thin circular blade on this tool will cut it very neatly for you
    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/391901711340

    5mm would do it...but its one of those composite doors...if I cut it would I have a serious draft coming in?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    They came, measured, took the money and vanished...

    If you had a main contractor/builder would this be his problem?
    Your self building it’s your problem, don’t blame the door man.

    Appreciate the plaster is finished but is there any space between door head and lintel? Best to raise door now.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Rackstar wrote: »
    They didn’t ask about the flooring at all?

    Asked what I was putting down and I said a tile at that was it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    How much do you need to remove? You'll get something from the bottom of the door.

    Another option is to leave the door and sink a mat into the floor instead of tiles. Handy to stop water getting everywhere from shoes too.

    main_2_1.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    BryanF wrote: »
    If you had a main contractor/builder would this be his problem?
    Your self building it’s your problem, don’t blame the door man.

    Appreciate the plaster is finished but is there any space between door head and lintel? Best to raise door now.

    Yeah I realised that pretty quick in the build...I thought if the plumber or blocklayer etc made an error I thought it would be their responsibility to rectify it but it's my problem and up to me to fix it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    BryanF wrote: »
    If you had a main contractor/builder would this be his problem?
    Your self building it’s your problem, don’t blame the door man.

    Appreciate the plaster is finished but is there any space between door head and lintel? Best to raise door now.

    You'll then be left with a gap where the door frame didn't get the floor, right? Though perhaps if you can get tile under the frame it will look ok.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 471 ✭✭Turbohymac


    Definitely don't cut the bottom of the door as it will let water and draughts in..raise frame or replace ..yes might be a few hundred now but down the road you'll be in deep s,,t if you have to consaw it out with house painted /furnished etc.. also if u cut the door regardless of any other issues in the future Munster j"s won't cover under any warranty.. raise or swap out for 50mm lower frame &door and keep it tight to overhead lintel..
    Best of luck.. still miles cheaper than having Bob the builder even with the odd inexperienced c - - k up we self builder jack of all trades make after finishing our day jobs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Turbohymac wrote: »
    Definitely don't cut the bottom of the door as it will let water and draughts in..raise frame or replace ..yes might be a few hundred now but down the road you'll be in deep s,,t if you have to consaw it out with house painted /furnished etc.. also if u cut the door regardless of any other issues in the future Munster j"s won't cover under any warranty.. raise or swap out for 50mm lower frame &door and keep it tight to overhead lintel..
    Best of luck.. still miles cheaper than having Bob the builder even with the odd inexperienced c - - k up we self builder jack of all trades make after finishing our day jobs

    Depend on how much you are taking off, the sealing gaskets are not on the extreme lip of the door.

    50mm?
    Tiles or paving stones?!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,171 ✭✭✭enricoh


    BryanF wrote: »
    If you had a main contractor/builder would this be his problem?
    Your self building it’s your problem, don’t blame the door man.

    Appreciate the plaster is finished but is there any space between door head and lintel? Best to raise door now.

    Munster joinery never asked what thickness the tile was. I'd imagine that's the first question that should be asked when going measuring.
    Time to dog them op!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    Was doors or floor in first?

    We matched the floor to allow tiles and door to open.
    To late for what if's, But that mat idea is actually a very good solution.
    Kudos


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    enricoh wrote: »
    Munster joinery never asked what thickness the tile was. I'd imagine that's the first question that should be asked when going measuring.
    Time to dog them op!

    Not their problem, it’s the main contractors problem to allow for floor finish build up when setting out door opes, and supervising door install.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,410 ✭✭✭Tefral


    Your only option here is to put a matwell in


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 41,587 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    enricoh wrote: »
    Munster joinery never asked what thickness the tile was. I'd imagine that's the first question that should be asked when going measuring.
    Time to dog them op!

    This is not a MJ problem, its the builders problem aka the OP.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    kceire wrote: »
    This is not a MJ problem, its the builders problem aka the OP.

    Is that not like paying a tailor to make you a suit and if the legs are too short the tailor is not at fault or accountable?


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 41,587 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    Is that not like paying a tailor to make you a suit and if the legs are too short the tailor is not at fault or accountable?

    No, it’s like going to the tailor and telling them you have shoes at home that come to here, so make the trousers come to here please. So the tailor does that.

    Then you get home and you realize the shoes actually go to there, instead of here. Tailor done exactly as you said.

    But back to reality, the slab is poured, the ope for the door is created. The op gets the door company out to measure but the op forgot to leave space for tiles and this effects the height.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    kceire wrote: »
    No, it’s like going to the tailor and telling them you have shoes at home that come to here, so make the trousers come to here please. So the tailor does that.

    Then you get home and you realize the shoes actually go to there, instead of here. Tailor done exactly as you said.

    But back to reality, the slab is poured, the ope for the door is created. The op gets the door company out to measure but the op forgot to leave space for tiles and this effects the height.

    I have to disagree, how did they OP forget to leave space for the tile if the door company were measuring?

    If the OP had provided measurements then 100% its their problem (such as if you provide window blind/curtain measurements before the windows are in its your problem if they dont fit) but they door company came out to measure for themselves.

    If the tile was down but there was a book on the floor where the frame would go, who is at fault if the door company measures to the book rather than to the tile?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    MJ rep did ask me the thickness of tile. I told him 15mm (12mm tile plus adhesive). I never mentioned mat nor did he.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    MJ rep did ask me the thickness of tile. I told him 15mm (12mm tile plus adhesive). I never mentioned mat nor did he.

    How much room is there ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    How much room is there ?

    10mm


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    10mm

    Have you rung the installer and asked what they intend to do
    Sometimes the lift on the hinge can be adjusted


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    Yeah I realised that pretty quick in the build...I thought if the plumber or blocklayer etc made an error I thought it would be their responsibility to rectify it but it's my problem and up to me to fix it.

    That’s not true.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    That’s not true.

    Care to elaborate?
    I believe it is true.
    If your the main contractor, its up to you to fix the issue.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    B-D-P-- wrote: »
    Care to elaborate?
    I believe it is true.
    If your the main contractor, its up to you to fix the issue.

    If I’m the main contractor and a plumber makes a mistake I ring him up and tell him to come down and fix the mistake. That’s how I fix the issue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    If I’m the main contractor and a plumber makes a mistake I ring him up and tell him to come down and fix the mistake. That’s how I fix the issue.

    Depending on the issue.

    Welcome to building forum, we play differently to D&D. Our world is not made up.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 41,587 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    If I’m the main contractor and a plumber makes a mistake I ring him up and tell him to come down and fix the mistake. That’s how I fix the issue.

    In this case, the OP is self building and therefore is the main contractor.
    Now it gets into the detail of what drawings did the OP issue to the trades, and what specification.

    Mistakes are easily fixed by trades, if the plumber put in a pipe connection wrong and it leaked, it can be fixed, that's his fault of course. But if the main contractor creates an opening in the wall for a door, tells the door company to measure that opening, then the main contractor is responsible to ensure finishes can be laid. This would have to be allowed for in the finished level of the concrete.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    B-D-P-- wrote: »
    Depending on the issue.

    Welcome to building forum, we play differently to D&D. Our world is not made up.

    Seriously ? Get a life


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    kceire wrote: »
    In this case, the OP is self building and therefore is the main contractor.
    Now it gets into the detail of what drawings did the OP issue to the trades, and what specification.

    Mistakes are easily fixed by trades, if the plumber put in a pipe connection wrong and it leaked, it can be fixed, that's his fault of course. But if the main contractor creates an opening in the wall for a door, tells the door company to measure that opening, then the main contractor is responsible to ensure finishes can be laid. This would have to be allowed for in the finished level of the concrete.

    I’d agree, but if the screed was poured after the doors went in the subby sticking the door in the ope didn’t make the mistake. If the doors went in afterwards and they were told to leave clearance for 15mm it is their fault.

    The op said that if the subby makes the mistake it’s on the contractor but that’s not true. If the contractor makes an oversight and the subby dosent fix it for him it’s on the contractor.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    MJ rep did ask me the thickness of tile. I told him 15mm (12mm tile plus adhesive). I never mentioned mat nor did he.

    So what have they come back to you based on this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    GreeBo wrote: »
    So what have they come back to you based on this?

    No. Plus I have nothing in writing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    Have you rung the installer and asked what they intend to do
    Sometimes the lift on the hinge can be adjusted

    Rang them. They put me through to the services department. The services department said 'it's not something they do. Apologies.'


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    B-D-P-- wrote: »
    Was doors or floor in first?

    We matched the floor to allow tiles and door to open.
    To late for what if's, But that mat idea is actually a very good solution.
    Kudos

    Floor in first. Concrete. Radiators so no screed.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    Floor in first. Concrete. Radiators so no screed.

    Well if the finished floor was only 10 mm below the door and the sales rep agree that it would be installed at 15mm you need to go back to the rep
    Did they put it in writing on the quote or on the invoice ? Did you pay before fitting?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    Well if the finished floor was only 10 mm below the door and the sales rep agree that it would be installed at 15mm you need to go back to the rep
    Did they put it in writing on the quote or on the invoice ? Did you pay before fitting?

    Rep won't answer phone. MJ said I have to sort it with rep. Yes paid in full. This company take all money day before installation. They have have details from payment of deposit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    Rep won't answer phone. MJ said I have to sort it with rep. Yes paid in full. This company take all money day before installation. They have have details from payment of deposit.

    They may have details but do you have them for evidence?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Jack Moore wrote: »
    They may have details but do you have them for evidence?

    Sorry payment details I ment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,675 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    Who signed off that the measurements are correct


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Carrickbeg wrote: »
    No. Plus I have nothing in writing.

    See this is where problems always start when it comes to contractors and getting things done on a self build.
    When clearances or specs are critical it always needs to be In writing, otherwise there is very little comeback.
    Best you can hope for now is some goodwill gesture from the installers, otherwise you are going to have to take the hit and pay to have it refitted.
    The mat well might be a good idea, but I think cutting the door is a bad idea.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭Carrickbeg


    Who signed off that the measurements are correct

    There was no signing involved. Seems stupid now that I put so much faith in a rep that i never met before but I thought with MJ being such a successful company the customer would be looked after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭heldel00


    Husband put a washer type thingy (actually think we used two) on the hinges to rise our door slightly. 7 years on and no probs here.
    I have a coir mat bedded into the tiles inside the door too just to save dirt being walked into the house.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 778 ✭✭✭Jack Moore


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    See this is where problems always start when it comes to contractors and getting things done on a self build.
    When clearances or specs are critical it always needs to be In writing, otherwise there is very little comeback.
    Best you can hope for now is some goodwill gesture from the installers, otherwise you are going to have to take the hit and pay to have it refitted.
    The mat well might be a good idea, but I think cutting the door is a bad idea.

    You need to contact someone who repairs windows and doors. Don’t cut the door and don’t put in a matwell. It’s often possaible to get some adjustment on these things. It’s not for nothing that contractors don’t pay till after inspection and always have things laid out to the mm How they want things done you have to hope for the best but plan for the worst unfortuanatly.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Thread closed, see forum charter, specific companies being discussed


This discussion has been closed.
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