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Supplier recommendations for treated construction timber

  • 16-07-2018 6:49am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭


    I'm after a load of treated construction timber delivered for a posh shed build.

    I need about a tonne of various dimensions, mostly 100x44 for studs, but up to 300x75mm(x 4.8m x3) for a built-up ridge beam.

    The last lot of 4x2 I got from the local builders providers wasn't great. I don't mind the crowns, but there were a lot of very twisted wood.

    Are all suppliers much the same for quality? Should I be going straight to a sawmill? I assume the less time it's been lying around the less it warps.

    Recommendations by PM would be much appreciated. I'm in north Wicklow.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,170 ✭✭✭enricoh


    Get imported timber, the balcas stuff is water in a solid form! Flanagan timber in meath do it , dunno if they deliver to wiclow tho.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,541 ✭✭✭Dudda


    Sometimes if you purchase treated timber it's ungraded and not intended for construction. It's full of nots, poor quality and all twisted and warped. What you want is graded timber like C14 (I'm no structural engineer) and then get it pressure treated if required. I'd imagine that would be a lot cheaper than getting it imported. If it's a very fancy shed expecting a royal visit you could get the timber planed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    Try Abwood near newtownmountkennedy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,171 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    If the timber is for use internally in the structure of the shed there is no need for treated timber.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    If the timber is for use internally in the structure of the shed there is no need for treated timber.

    Good, I was wondering that. All the studding is within the dry, insulated space as I'm going for external insulation.

    Presumably subframe, roof battens, soffits etc would need to be treated though.

    Design is here btw (or that was last week's design before I upped the beam dimensions).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    If you are going for external insulation on a Timberframe wall I would go for treated studs. I would also go for cement board with racking capabilities (BS EN 594:1996) for the external sheathing rather than plywood/OSB.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    kieran. wrote: »
    If you are going for external insulation on a Timberframe wall I would go for treated studs. I would also go for cement board with racking capabilities (BS EN 594:1996) for the external sheathing rather than plywood/OSB.
    Why?

    Current plan is Solitex Fronta Quattro over Elka Strong Board (like OSB but with better vapour permeability and response to humidity) with (if I'm feeling brave) an open vertical larch facade with 35mm gaps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,151 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen wrote: »
    Good, I was wondering that. All the studding is within the dry, insulated space as I'm going for external insulation.

    Presumably subframe, roof battens, soffits etc would need to be treated though.

    Design is here btw (or that was last week's design before I upped the beam dimensions).

    EWI on TF?
    Are you happy with this spec?

    https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/Ireland/Products/Product-Detail/Solitex-Fronta-Humida-

    or https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/Ireland/Products/Product-Detail/pro-clima-Fronta-Quattro

    I don't see Solitex Fronta Quattro

    Important to get the right name, given the cost:D

    Where is the insulation layer?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    Lumen wrote: »
    Why?

    Current plan is Solitex Fronta Quattro over Elka Strong Board (like OSB but with better vapour permeability and response to humidity) with (if I'm feeling brave) an open vertical larch facade with 35mm gaps.

    Where is the EWI layer ESB Board? I would use a cement particle board as is frost/moisture/rodent proof and will also add to the fire properties of your wall.

    35 mm gaps are pretty big for a rainscreen what depth larch are you using?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I don't see Solitex Fronta Quattro

    Important to get the right name, given the cost:D

    https://proclima.com/systems/solitex-fronta-quattro
    Where is the insulation layer?

    80mm Gutex under the Solitex.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    kieran. wrote: »
    Where is the EWI layer ESB Board? I would use a cement particle board as is frost/moisture/rodent proof and will also add to the fire properties of your wall.

    35 mm gaps are pretty big for a rainscreen what depth larch are you using?

    Yeah, 35mm is the max gap according to the datasheet

    "SOLITEX FRONTA QUATTRO permanently protects the insulation from wind and rain. For use with closed and open façades (open jointed façades, up to 35 mm gap width – boarding width = min. 3 x gap width) in accordance with installation guidelines."

    (eh, reads guidelines)

    "When using behind open jointed façades the gaps must not be more than 35 mm. The width of the boarding: min. 3 x gap width. The distance between the façade and the membrane must be at least 20 mm."

    I was looking at 18x94mm board, so that's not going to work. I guess I could play it safer and go for 30mm gap.

    Membrane-facade distance will be 57mm (22mm batten colinear with wall stud, 35mm counterbatten).

    I'm not totally convinced about a partially exposed membrane either, but hey, it says it works in the datasheet, so.... :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,151 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen wrote: »

    The learning continues, thank you :)
    80mm Gutex under the Solitex.

    So hardly EWI then :)

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,151 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen wrote: »

    The learning continues, thank you.
    Gutex under the solitex is hardly EWI?:D

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    The learning continues, thank you :)
    I'm slightly terrified posting any of this here TBH. I'm a rank amateur with a few power tools and a web browser. :D
    So hardly EWI then :)
    It's external to the load-carrying structure, does that count? I don't know.

    The way I see it, keeping the structural members inside the insulated envelope means the dewpoint can move around harmlessly within the EWI layer and any condensate can then re-evaporate harmlessly through the vapour permeable outer skin.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,151 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Have you gone down to Athboy for a look see at the different examples in the show room

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Have you gone down to Athboy for a look see at the different examples in the show room
    No. Maybe that would be a good idea!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,151 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen wrote: »
    No. Maybe that would be a good idea!

    Just call ahead to make sure they don't have a training day, showroom would be off limits

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Have you priced cellulose between studs with vapour barrrier v wood fibre ‘ewi’ ?

    The cellouse has some level of ‘decrement delay’ and a little more sound proofing.

    Nothing wrong with gutex.

    Assume the base is up of the ground? Celluloseay work in the floor also?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    BryanF wrote: »
    Have you priced cellulose between studs with vapour barrrier v wood fibre ‘ewi’ ?

    The cellouse has some level of ‘decrement delay’ and a little more sound proofing.

    I'm trying not to rely on stud insulation as that leaves too much cold bridging through the studs. I might put some in later though.
    BryanF wrote: »
    Assume the base is up of the ground? Celluloseay work in the floor also?

    Yes, on ground screws. Ground screws are tricky to locate accurately so I might need to use some 10mm steel plates to support the subframe, will see after the screws go in.

    Also, might use two levels of gravel with gravel board to locate subframe at topsoil level whilst preserving air gap under subframe. External insulation gives me a big overhang to hide these details.

    Rendering of ground screw, subframe, open facade, bottom of membrane-covered gutex, gravel boards, grass level. There's a slight slope so drainage through gravel should be ok.

    It's all fine in theory, will see in practice.

    Ground_Detail.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,151 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    If drainage is a potential problem, would be worth putting in a sump, lined with maybe 12" drainage pipe: then have a sump pump, c 35 euro from Lidl or Aldi, to hand.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I've about 20m of 150mm land drain pipe left over from fixing the garden earlier in the year so I'll probably shove that under the gravel on the outside of the boards.

    A lot depends on what I find when I break ground. Main purpose of using ground screws is to avoid root disturbance, not much point doing that if I compromise them by removing all the topsoil. So it's a balance between drainage and tree hugging.


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