Supplier recommendations for treated construction timber

Lumen

I'm after a load of treated construction timber delivered for a posh shed build.

I need about a tonne of various dimensions, mostly 100x44 for studs, but up to 300x75mm(x 4.8m x3) for a built-up ridge beam.

The last lot of 4x2 I got from the local builders providers wasn't great. I don't mind the crowns, but there were a lot of very twisted wood.

Are all suppliers much the same for quality? Should I be going straight to a sawmill? I assume the less time it's been lying around the less it warps.

Recommendations by PM would be much appreciated. I'm in north Wicklow.

enricoh

Get imported timber, the balcas stuff is water in a solid form! Flanagan timber in meath do it , dunno if they deliver to wiclow tho.

Dudda

Sometimes if you purchase treated timber it's ungraded and not intended for construction. It's full of nots, poor quality and all twisted and warped. What you want is graded timber like C14 (I'm no structural engineer) and then get it pressure treated if required. I'd imagine that would be a lot cheaper than getting it imported. If it's a very fancy shed expecting a royal visit you could get the timber planed.

ronn

Try Abwood near newtownmountkennedy

tabby aspreme

If the timber is for use internally in the structure of the shed there is no need for treated timber.

Lumen

tabby aspreme wrote: »

If the timber is for use internally in the structure of the shed there is no need for treated timber.

Good, I was wondering that. All the studding is within the dry, insulated space as I'm going for external insulation.

Presumably subframe, roof battens, soffits etc would need to be treated though.

Design is here btw (or that was last week's design before I upped the beam dimensions).

kieran.

If you are going for external insulation on a Timberframe wall I would go for treated studs. I would also go for cement board with racking capabilities (BS EN 594:1996) for the external sheathing rather than plywood/OSB.

Lumen

kieran. wrote: »

If you are going for external insulation on a Timberframe wall I would go for treated studs. I would also go for cement board with racking capabilities (BS EN 594:1996) for the external sheathing rather than plywood/OSB.

Why?

Current plan is Solitex Fronta Quattro over Elka Strong Board (like OSB but with better vapour permeability and response to humidity) with (if I'm feeling brave) an open vertical larch facade with 35mm gaps.

Calahonda52

Lumen wrote: »

Good, I was wondering that. All the studding is within the dry, insulated space as I'm going for external insulation.

Presumably subframe, roof battens, soffits etc would need to be treated though.

Design is here btw (or that was last week's design before I upped the beam dimensions).

EWI on TF?
Are you happy with this spec?

https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/Ireland/Products/Product-Detail/Solitex-Fronta-Humida-

or https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/Ireland/Products/Product-Detail/pro-clima-Fronta-Quattro

I don't see Solitex Fronta Quattro

Important to get the right name, given the cost:D

Where is the insulation layer?

kieran.

Lumen wrote: »

Why?

Current plan is Solitex Fronta Quattro over Elka Strong Board (like OSB but with better vapour permeability and response to humidity) with (if I'm feeling brave) an open vertical larch facade with 35mm gaps.

Where is the EWI layer ESB Board? I would use a cement particle board as is frost/moisture/rodent proof and will also add to the fire properties of your wall.

35 mm gaps are pretty big for a rainscreen what depth larch are you using?

Lumen

Calahonda52 wrote: »

I don't see Solitex Fronta Quattro

Important to get the right name, given the cost:D

https://proclima.com/systems/solitex-fronta-quattro

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Where is the insulation layer?

80mm Gutex under the Solitex.

Lumen

kieran. wrote: »

Where is the EWI layer ESB Board? I would use a cement particle board as is frost/moisture/rodent proof and will also add to the fire properties of your wall.

35 mm gaps are pretty big for a rainscreen what depth larch are you using?

Yeah, 35mm is the max gap according to the datasheet

"SOLITEX FRONTA QUATTRO permanently protects the insulation from wind and rain. For use with closed and open façades (open jointed façades, up to 35 mm gap width – boarding width = min. 3 x gap width) in accordance with installation guidelines."

(eh, reads guidelines)

"When using behind open jointed façades the gaps must not be more than 35 mm. The width of the boarding: min. 3 x gap width. The distance between the façade and the membrane must be at least 20 mm."

I was looking at 18x94mm board, so that's not going to work. I guess I could play it safer and go for 30mm gap.

Membrane-facade distance will be 57mm (22mm batten colinear with wall stud, 35mm counterbatten).

I'm not totally convinced about a partially exposed membrane either, but hey, it says it works in the datasheet, so....

Calahonda52

Lumen wrote: »

https://proclima.com/systems/solitex-fronta-quattro

The learning continues, thank you

80mm Gutex under the Solitex.

So hardly EWI then

Calahonda52

Lumen wrote: »

https://proclima.com/systems/solitex-fronta-quattro



80mm Gutex under the Solitex.

The learning continues, thank you.
Gutex under the solitex is hardly EWI?:D

Lumen

Calahonda52 wrote: »

The learning continues, thank you

I'm slightly terrified posting any of this here TBH. I'm a rank amateur with a few power tools and a web browser.

Calahonda52 wrote: »

So hardly EWI then

It's external to the load-carrying structure, does that count? I don't know.

The way I see it, keeping the structural members inside the insulated envelope means the dewpoint can move around harmlessly within the EWI layer and any condensate can then re-evaporate harmlessly through the vapour permeable outer skin.

Calahonda52

Have you gone down to Athboy for a look see at the different examples in the show room

Lumen

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Have you gone down to Athboy for a look see at the different examples in the show room

No. Maybe that would be a good idea!

Calahonda52

Lumen wrote: »

No. Maybe that would be a good idea!

Just call ahead to make sure they don't have a training day, showroom would be off limits

BryanF

Have you priced cellulose between studs with vapour barrrier v wood fibre ‘ewi’ ?

The cellouse has some level of ‘decrement delay’ and a little more sound proofing.

Nothing wrong with gutex.

Assume the base is up of the ground? Celluloseay work in the floor also?

Lumen

BryanF wrote: »

Have you priced cellulose between studs with vapour barrrier v wood fibre ‘ewi’ ?

The cellouse has some level of ‘decrement delay’ and a little more sound proofing.

I'm trying not to rely on stud insulation as that leaves too much cold bridging through the studs. I might put some in later though.

BryanF wrote: »

Assume the base is up of the ground? Celluloseay work in the floor also?

Yes, on ground screws. Ground screws are tricky to locate accurately so I might need to use some 10mm steel plates to support the subframe, will see after the screws go in.

Also, might use two levels of gravel with gravel board to locate subframe at topsoil level whilst preserving air gap under subframe. External insulation gives me a big overhang to hide these details.

Rendering of ground screw, subframe, open facade, bottom of membrane-covered gutex, gravel boards, grass level. There's a slight slope so drainage through gravel should be ok.

It's all fine in theory, will see in practice.

Calahonda52

If drainage is a potential problem, would be worth putting in a sump, lined with maybe 12" drainage pipe: then have a sump pump, c 35 euro from Lidl or Aldi, to hand.

Lumen

I've about 20m of 150mm land drain pipe left over from fixing the garden earlier in the year so I'll probably shove that under the gravel on the outside of the boards.

A lot depends on what I find when I break ground. Main purpose of using ground screws is to avoid root disturbance, not much point doing that if I compromise them by removing all the topsoil. So it's a balance between drainage and tree hugging.