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Victorian Solid Redbrick wall internal insulation

  • 13-07-2018 7:02am
    #1
    EyeCake
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 197 ✭✭


    I am wondering what is the best type of internal insulation for inside if thick solid victorian walls. it is a complete rebuilding all plasterwork has been removed and tanked
    They were originally using extratherm sheets but now Isover Rolls are suggested as better for soundproofing and breathability?
    Help please


Comments

  • #2
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    how high up the walls is the tanking?
    What is the strategy at floor/ceiling/party wall junctions to achieve insulation continuity?
    Is whole house mech ventilation planned?
    If you go with isover rolls will the product system be installed or just the insulation?

    Have you anyone other than builder advising you?


  • #3
    EyeCake
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 197 ✭✭EyeCake


    i think the tanking is right to the top of the wall
    It is effectively open plan new build with 2 original redbrick walls from a derelict Victorian end of terrace.
    It is not that large so trying to lose as little space to insulation but want the benefits
    The side wall is on quite a busy street with traffic noise
    there is mechanical demand ventilation by Partel with heat exchanger in main living area.
    We have an architect but late change to this which i know nothing about.
    I don't know what full system is but i think it would be fitted by subcontractor


  • #4
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    If drylining an old wall - the entire wall build-up should ideally be made up of breathable materials

    Extent of Tanking means the walls breathability is compromised and you probably don’t want to fix boards through it? Any system needs a complete vapour barrier (air-tightness) layer on The warm side of the insulation. I would favour the mineral wool type insulation with studs floor to ceiling. With the PIR you need to cut the boards between stud work (which is a pain, as there will gaps to fill with a lot of foam)

    As above insulation continuity and detailing at every junction is key.
    Pity you can’t ask your architect to explain this.


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