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Doorbell not working

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  • 12-07-2018 8:44am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭


    As per the title, our doorbell is not working and I've narrowed it to a a fault in the wire. I'm not sure what the fault is - whether is a break or otherwise.

    What is the best way of locating the fault in the wire? I don't have access to a cable fault locator and I've only got a multimeter, which I suspect will not be of much use in this instance. The roofspace is floored - running a new cable might be difficult.

    I have temporarily installed a wireless doorbell which is too quiet and I'd prefer to have the mains based bell.

    Any suggestions appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 289 ✭✭Bull76


    You've kinda answered your own question, as in you've narrowed the fault to the cabling. Best course of action without specialist equipment is to replace the cable. You've linked one end together and tried to measure resistance?
    Could try a non contact volt stick to detect the voltage, but I believe the bell transform output is too low for that to work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Yes - I was hoping there would be some way to narrow down the fault in the wire without needing a fancy locator tool.

    I was considering just doing away with it totally and getting in a high volume wireless item., but might try pulling a new cable first.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,541 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    What is the best way of locating the fault in the wire? I don't have access to a cable fault locator and I've only got a multimeter, which I suspect will not be of much use in this instance.


    A multimeter is the perfect tool. Here is a simplified version how I would do it:


    Test #1: Disconnect each wire that is required for the doorbell to operate. Then using the multimeter measure the resistance of each. A low resistance indicates that the wire is not broken.


    Test #2: Measure the resistance between each wire. A really high resistance indicates that no short between cores.


    Test #3: Measure the resistance across the door bell switch. If it is working, high resistance changes to low resistance when the button is pressed.


    Still not working? Depending on what you find:


    Test #4: Apply power directly to the bell to see if it works.


    Test #5: Measure the output of the door bell transformer / battery.


    Generally cables do not mysteriously fail. Unless you were doing construction work or something like that I would be surprised if the cable is broken.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    How do you measure the resistance of each wire when the ends are over ten metres apart?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,541 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    How do you measure the resistance of each wire when the ends are over ten metres apart?

    This is one way:

    Use a "wander lead". Connect one end of the wander lead to the far end of the cable under test and bring the other end of the wander lead to the near end of the cable under test.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,541 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    .....in other words extend the test leads of the multimeter to suit.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    How many cores of cable are at the doorbell, is it an alarm cable?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    I've got a cat 5e cable which is showing a short across 5 and 6 at the wall plate.
    All other points in the house are good. At this one, 5 and 6 light up together when the tester goes through the sequence.
    It is fine at the other end of the cable According to the tester.

    The wiring in the wall plate looks good and there is no visible short.

    I'm not sure what the cause is - I am not sure if it is related to the broken door bell. It would be really odd if a screw shorted them together. Plus they are at opposite ends of the face plate.

    Any help appreciated.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,541 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Very common issue.
    Disconnect, punch down, retest, if it fails again repeat. If it still fails test the cable in the way I described for the door bell.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Yip - that is what was wrong with the wall plate. Took another two goes to get it resolved. Unfortunately getting some more cable involved lifting some flooring upstairs which was a big undertaking.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Hi, got the doorbell working again - ended up being a fault in the consumer unit.

    However, the problems continue. The doorbell itself is not sufficiently loud for my parents to hear it. Indeed, I struggle to hear it myself. Is there a method of repeating the bell or getting a louder bell (bearing in mind that this is a wired setup)?

    I have already got another wired bell box and transformer - it would be a matter of connecting it into the existing bell box for the front door. However, the rear door would then require a solution.

    What I'm considering is getting a wired to wireless converter for the front door and a wireless for the rear door (none there at minute).
    If I could get approx. 3 bell units which can sound a different bell depending on which button is pressed, then I think this would decent solution.
    Any recommendations for this setup - or a better plan?


    I have just seen this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Waterproof-transmiters-Receivers-Operating/dp/B06XBXBC1Y

    However, I've read in a few places about people having false activations with the wireless systems. Is this common?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Any advice here on this doorbell?

    I can only see a Honeywell option for converting from wired to wireless. Plus it is expensive.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    TBH your requirement is very specific

    Why don't you just get a wireless bell?

    Try the plug in units that allow the socket to still be used so that they don't get unplugged

    Or

    Put in a ring or Google Hello bell that will ring the existing bell and their phones etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,106 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Stoner wrote: »
    Why don't you just get a wireless bell?
    That is an option. The back door already has a wireless bell, so I was attempting to combine both using the same wireless setup. However, I'm not sure that the back door unit (Byron BY201F) can handle multiple bell pushes.

    I can correct the back door problem by purchasing more receivers. Although each additional chime would cost £18.00.

    I was just trying to avoid having yet another spare transformer and chime In regards to the front door, I was trying to avoid having another chime and transformer lying about the house.

    The OCD person that I am dislikes the idea of two separate wireless door bell systems in the property and would prefer to have them integrated into one setup.

    I could possibly get away with purchasing a louder unit for the front door. Possibly similar to this (recommended a fire alarm sounder): (Fire Sounder.
    Put in a ring or Google Hello bell that will ring the existing bell and their phones etc
    They would kill me if I put in anything as technical as this - besides which, neither of them have a smartphone.


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