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Watts puzzlement

  • 18-06-2018 3:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 491 ✭✭


    I'm used to vaping a Nautilus 1.8 ohms at 12 watts. Now I'm using a Siren 1.0 ohms. I expected that the lower resistance would require more watts but find that, in fact, 10 watts gives the best vape. How come?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 76 ✭✭Steve666


    Well, firstly; if it works, it works.

    Lower resistance - is that due to a thicker wire, or is it because of a shorter coil? Like - you could be using the same size wire as the Nautilus used, but less of it, thus requiring less power to heat it up. But if the wire is much thicker, but the coil is the same length, then you'd need more power alright...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 491 ✭✭MHP


    According to the Steam Engine calculator <http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html> the mod should be set to 23 watts, but at that setting the vapour is hot and cracking. I'm new to this RTA lark so, no doubt, I've a lot to learn - trial and error.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,185 ✭✭✭Dr Bill V1.5


    There isn't really a set wattage for coils, everyone has their sweet spot and they all differ. Couple of questions,did you wrap the coil yourself or is it bought pre wrapped and also what wire is used for the coil. Some coils such as Clapton's and more exotic coils need plenty of power to heat them whereas stainless steel and kanthal needs less power to get a good vape. If you're happy at 10 watts then stick with it, you could experiment by increasing the wattage slowly and see does the difference in temperature, flavour or cloud production appeal to you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 491 ✭✭MHP


    The Siren came with two pre-built coils and that's what I'm using. Unfortunately Digiflavor give no information about them. It looks like Kanthal. The mod tells me that it's 1.09 ohm. I have wicked it with Japanese cotton.
    I'm waiting for a coil jig to arrive from China so plenty of fun experimentation in store.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,894 ✭✭✭TinCool


    MHP wrote: »
    I'm waiting for a coil jig to arrive from China so plenty of fun experimentation in store.


    Jig Shmig. Just use different sized drill bits. That's what I've done for years.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 491 ✭✭MHP


    That's what I used to do when I had a Kayfun Lite. But with ageing eyes and fingers I now need all the help I can get.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 516 ✭✭✭chipfox


    i could never go without a coil jig. it's such an incredibly cheap time saver and makes perfect coils every time. i got the cheapest set on fasttech for like 3 euro and they're still grand after 2 years

    also those cheap flush cutters on fasttech are amazing for diy coils. i never realised how useful high precision snips were until i got them. again, it cost like 2 euro.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,894 ✭✭✭TinCool


    MHP wrote: »
    That's what I used to do when I had a Kayfun Lite. But with ageing eyes and fingers I now need all the help I can get.
    That's fair enough. I wasn't belittling the idea of a jig, just that there are other options if you're stuck.

    I know what you mean about the eyesight. I've worn glasses since I was a kid for short sightedness, and I've noticed the last few years (41 now), that I have to take them off when I'm working with small items, or reading the small print on something etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 491 ✭✭MHP


    I had a cataract operation on one eye last January. So now I need reading glasses for my left eye, but with my highly myopic right eye I have sharp vision up to about 6 inches. If I'm watching television I keep my right eye closed. If I'm building an RTA I keep my left eye closed. I'm on a 2-year waiting list for the op to the right eye. After that I'll probably have to use a magnifying glass to replace a coil!


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