Swapping Caad 12 BB30A to Shimano Cranks

irishrover99

So after a visit to the bike shop and with the creaking coming back straight away, i've decided to try swap the Cannondale cranks on my bike for Shimano.

Can someone please tell me if this is the thing i need.
Will it work with the internal cables and if anyone has done something different, please let me know.

Cheers.
https://www.ridewill.it/p/en/token-2284500114-bottom-bracket-ninja-bb841t-42a-for-cannondale-bb30a-for-24mm-spindle/264456/

joey100

I used a shimano crank in my supersix evo, left the BB30 in it though and just added these,

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims/

Not sure that will solve your problem of a creaking BB though, but found it to be the easiest solution. You just tap them into the BB and the shimano cranks should fit straight away.

Matt Bianco

I used the Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket which worked perfectly since installing shimano cranks on a Supersix - many have mixed results in conversion so probably worth going to LBS for fitting if unsure (as I was)

irishrover99

Matt Bianco wrote: »

I used the Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket which worked perfectly since installing shimano cranks on a Supersix - many have mixed results in conversion so probably worth going to LBS for fitting if unsure (as I was)

Is this the one below and i assume the Supersix has internal cables through the BB.

https://ie.ciclimattio.com/s/rotor/bb3024-road-68%2F73-mm-steel-2018/?id=9490&m=14765

Borderfox

I used the rotor one and it creaks like a mudder, bike is so quiet until I get out of the saddle and it wrecks my head.

It would be replaced but I need to replace the bearings in the prime carbon wheels I got (that's another thread)

Matt Bianco

It was this exact one (which looks to be the same)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/rotor-bb30-to-24mm-steel-road-bottom-bracket/rp-prod130495

My supersix doesn't have internal cabling (2014 model) so couldn't advise you there I'm afraid

thekooman

joey100 wrote: »

I used a shimano crank in my supersix evo, left the BB30 in it though and just added these,

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims/

Not sure that will solve your problem of a creaking BB though, but found it to be the easiest solution. You just tap them into the BB and the shimano cranks should fit straight away.

i used these on my Caadx... fitted a 52 36 shimano crankset. no more creaking.head wrecker.

Borderfox

Just to add mine is a Specialized Roubaix and has internal cabling and no problems with the useless rotor BB

irishrover99

thekooman wrote: »

i used these on my Caadx... fitted a 52 36 shimano crankset. no more creaking.head wrecker.

And do you have any issues with the BB30 bearings since?

Can someone tell me if the is what is causing the creaking, bad bearings or are they just not fitting properly with the BB shell in the frame.

thekooman

irishrover99 wrote: »

And do you have any issues with the BB30 bearings since?

new BB was put in Oct 2017 and i winter trained and turbo'd on it since. needs a service again.

rodneyTrotter.

irishrover99 wrote: »

So after a visit to the bike shop and with the creaking coming back straight away, i've decided to try swap the Cannondale cranks on my bike for Shimano.

Can someone please tell me if this is the thing i need.
Will it work with the internal cables and if anyone has done something different, please let me know.


Cheers.
https://www.ridewill.it/p/en/token-2284500114-bottom-bracket-ninja-bb841t-42a-for-cannondale-bb30a-for-24mm-spindle/264456/

What shop did you go to ? , I changed mine to new ultegra on a caad12 . In fairness I was changing the groupset so I’m not sure what they used . I had it done in the CSS
Works perfectly . ... I had creaking issue too and thought it was the B.B. . It wasn’t .
I greased the seat post , seat clamp and QR on both wheels . No creaking after that Shortly after it I changed the groupset anyway

irishrover99

rodneyTrotter. wrote: »

What shop did you go to ? , I changed mine to new ultegra on a caad12 . In fairness I was changing the groupset so I’m not sure what they used . I had it done in the CSS
Works perfectly . ... I had creaking issue too and thought it was the B.B. . It wasn’t .
I greased the seat post , seat clamp and QR on both wheels . No creaking after that Shortly after it I changed the groupset anyway

One in Rathfarnham. I've no problems with the work they done really.
He took the crank apart as well and greased all the bolts although he said he hadn't a specific cannondale tool to do something else to the cranks. Also greased the pedals and tried different ones.

Its almost certain the BB as i've greased the dropouts and QR's in the wheels and it only happens out of the saddle. I can also eliminate the noise if i put more power through the drive side and pull up with my left foot on the non drive side.

Plastik

Welcome to the land of suffrage that is BB30/BB30a/pressfit bottom brackets. I've a Caad10 here that I was able to convert with the FSA threaded sleeve but that option won't work on a Caad12 because of the internal routing. I tried running the WheelsMFG adaptor cups linked above and found them useless. I've a SuperSix also with BB30a and after a lot of fannying around I eventually got it to stop creaking. I'm still running PF30 cups on that with a 30mm axle crank.

Creaking is a result of minute movement of the outer bearing casing in the bottom bracket shell. If you want to keep running a 30mm axle I would go back to the shop and ask him to press new bearings into the frame, but using Loctite 609 on the outside. It's a retaining compound, not a glue, and fills any voids that might promote movement. Some google action will tell you how commonly it's used.

As to why the bearings move in the first place, this is due to poor QC and manufacturing tolerances. Have a look at a few videos from Hambini Engineering on youtube and he explains it very well.

If the shop was able to take off your cranks then the only tool left that he couldn't have had is the lockring tool for attaching the cranks to the chainrings. Somewhere like Cyclesuperstore would likely be able to check/tighten that for you seeing as they stock Cannondale.

Alanbt

I have one of these that no longer use (had it on synapse disc BB30A with Shimano cranks).

https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/bb30a-cannondale-synapse-shimano-fsa-race-face-rotor

Used for about 1k km

If you’re interested can do a very reasonable price. Have same one on CAAD12 disc (with Ultegra) and works very well

Eamonnator

Borderfox wrote: »

I used the rotor one and it creaks like a mudder, bike is so quiet until I get out of the saddle and it wrecks my head.

It would be replaced but I need to replace the bearings in the prime carbon wheels I got (that's another thread)

I had a problem with the bearings in my Prime wheels.
I emailed CRC.
Wheels were collected by courier, bearings were replaced. Wheels were returned to me, no fuss, no problems.

irishrover99

Plastik wrote: »

Welcome to the land of suffrage that is BB30/BB30a/pressfit bottom brackets. I've a Caad10 here that I was able to convert with the FSA threaded sleeve but that option won't work on a Caad12 because of the internal routing. I tried running the WheelsMFG adaptor cups linked above and found them useless. I've a SuperSix also with BB30a and after a lot of fannying around I eventually got it to stop creaking. I'm still running PF30 cups on that with a 30mm axle crank.

Creaking is a result of minute movement of the outer bearing casing in the bottom bracket shell. If you want to keep running a 30mm axle I would go back to the shop and ask him to press new bearings into the frame, but using Loctite 609 on the outside. It's a retaining compound, not a glue, and fills any voids that might promote movement. Some google action will tell you how commonly it's used.

As to why the bearings move in the first place, this is due to poor QC and manufacturing tolerances. Have a look at a few videos from Hambini Engineering on youtube and he explains it very well.

If the shop was able to take off your cranks then the only tool left that he couldn't have had is the lockring tool for attaching the cranks to the chainrings. Somewhere like Cyclesuperstore would likely be able to check/tighten that for you seeing as they stock Cannondale.

Thanks Plastik.

Some good info there. I'll run it by the LBS next time i'm there but you are correct about the lock ring tool for the cranks. He ordered one last week so he said he should have it this week but i don't think that's the issue. It sound more like it's coming from the non drive side.

I've seen some reviews on the Wheels adapter cups and they vary.
I think ill just bite the bullet and switch over to Shimano now and save me time and money in the future.

irishrover99

Alanbt wrote: »

I have one of these that no longer use (had it on synapse disc BB30A with Shimano cranks).

https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/bb30a-cannondale-synapse-shimano-fsa-race-face-rotor

Used for about 1k km

If you’re interested can do a very reasonable price. Have same one on CAAD12 disc (with Ultegra) and works very well

Cheers Alan.
Ill send you a PM.
That Cbear BB seems to be the first thing that pops up when you google BB30A conversions and i was only asking another Boards member about it the other day.
I linked the Token one because its half the price.

G1032

Article linked below might be of interest to some of you here
https://www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/news/how-to-fix-a-creaking-bb30-bottom-bracket

irishrover99

Considering this thread is 5 years old, what would be the preferred BB30A converter these days.

I still have the same CAAD 12 and the C-Bear BB i bought of Alan worked fine but i think its run its course now and so i am looking for something on the lower price scale if possible.

Alexzont

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120777942#Comment_120777942

Just recently bought one of these https://www.bike24.com/p2319729.html?utm_source=parcellab&utm_medium=email&utm_content=any&utm_campaign=OutForDelivery&utm_term=any and going to try it out once I bring my caad 12 back home. Had great success running Wheels MFG on my Canyon and also bought one for my Caad 9 BB30. Pricey but once the BB30A started creaking that was it for me.

irishrover99

Cheers Alex, will take a look

G1032

I bought that WheelsMFG one a few months ago. Cost 100 euro from Sigma Sports. Best thing I ever did with that bike. Should have done it the day I bought the bike. Apart from my bearings not wearing in nanoseconds my front derailleur shifting has improved beyond comprehension with the R7000 53/39 I installed (FD is an R7000 too)

NeedMoreGears

I used an FSA adapter p/n EL-213 on a Synapse. Very cheap and simple to use. It comes in two parts, each of which simply slot into the BB30. I have internally routed hydraulics and cables and there was no problem.

I am stuck with the 30mm bearings though. I am on my third set with only 12,000km or so on the bike. If you have the tools, it's a ten minute job but perhaps not one for a first time mechanic. The current set have about 5,000km on them with no problem so far - I may have bought a slightly better version of the bearing by pure fluke.

By contrast, my shimano dura ace bearing set has around 60,000km on the older bike on it and is still going strong - I got about 15,000km out of the original.

I suspect the cannondale design features a bearing that is too narrow for the load. The ones i removed when the creaking started were very rough altogether.

G1032

BB30 must the biggest disaster ever to hit the bike market. All great in theory but the manufacturing tolerances of the BB shells are shocking. I think a threaded BB will be number one requirement for me in future when choosing a bike.